Tired of setting chokers?

TiersonB....Good to see you on here. Our Boss is the guy from MA, who not only tipped you off to the site here, but bought one of those units and then sold a couple more for you!

I like the looks of this product and cant wait to be on the opposite end of it in a tree. It seems like a lot less climbing and repositioning for the climber.

Good Luck!!
 
Allmark:

I don't think I would have talked to you last year, but maybe we met at the ISA show? I am doing a demo video of the machine in action, and I can send you one shortly if you like. We are still editing the video, although all the footage has been shot.

Email me at bigoletree@juno.com for a free video. Just give me a company name / your name and an address

thanks
 
Welcome to the buzz TiersonB, sign me up for the 24" tilting version!!! I'd be happy to help with field testing on non critical removals to help w/job function and useability and more importantly find limitations. I've been looking for something like this!!! Thanks for coming up with it!!! I can already see where trees like sycamore and pinoak (with lots of horizontal limbs) would go much faster! this would also work great on am. elms that are vase shaped with limbs that arch towards the top.
 
Mike:

Thanks, someone posted a little ways back about you...they said you would be interested. I'm glad to sign you up for the larger version of the RigEm&Roll (The "Bigger Rigger") but I'm curious to know how you would use it exactly, since I think you use a knuckleboom. I've never used one of these for tree work, and I was unclear based on your posts if there is a winch at the end or exactly how it works...is it simply a hook at the end?

How do you utilize your knuckle boom for tree removal jobs?
I'd be interested to know a little bit about it.

Email me with a name and address and I'll get you a DVD of the smaller version of the RigEm&Roll. The larger one should be ready by the end of 2007, maybe a little sooner.


Tierson Boutte
 
Tierson.
On the knuckleboom there is a roller with a pin that could be removed and the pin replaced to hold it. Similar to the pin that holds it with a wedge socket/ball pin used from a cable. or a shackle could be used if more distance is neede for clearance.
 
Could you post a close up picture of the working end of your knuckle boom and tell me what min distance the RigEm&Roll would have to be from the end of it for safe use?

I took off a half an hour and went and looked at your long post about how you use your knuckleboom, and I learned quite alot. Very interesting.

It seems that you prefer to maintain about 10 feet of sling between the jib's end hook and and long limbs you are cutting, would you be OK if they were very close to each other?

Thanks
Tierson
 
exactly TiersonB, 5-10 feet! There is no winch on mine (winch adds weight, lowers capicity, adds maint.) Not having a winch gives you more control too (less side swing!) Man if you went through one of those whole posts your computer is probably smoking about now! From the photos it looks like there is no hoses/wires or junk in the way on the rig'em & roll! getting the spacing between the pin on the end of the jib and the grapple could be easily adjusted (i think.) Here is a photo of one of todays jobs where you can see the pin & hook set up.
 

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Here is another. the red is tape to help keep the lock pins from getting snagged on brush. ( this stem that broke out in ice we had last night pushed the garage away from the house)
 

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Mike:

Those are some good pictures, thanks a lot. I'll take those and open them with a viewer to get close up on the parts in question. What you would want would be a rigid rod, about 3-6 feet long, that hung from the pin on the knuckle boom and connected to the top of the RigEm&Roll. This would allow it to dangle and swivel in both directions, like a log loader grapple. Then you could position the RigEm&Roll right over your limb, without getting your (possibly moving) limb too close to the hydraulic cylinders, etc. of the fly jib.

I'm not sure that you need the larger version of the RigEm&Roll based on your photos. Of course grabbing vertical wood is an advantage, but even the standard one will grab wood up to 70 degrees inclined from horizontal. With the optional power rotator and by using the positioning spikes, you'll be surprised how many limbs you can rig with it. It's weight capacity (5000-6000) should be sufficient for most of the picks I've seen you make of limbs and stems. The RigEm&Roll isn't designed for trunk wood anyway. The standard RigEm&Roll weighs around 425lbs, while the larger version will probably be closer to nine hundred pounds, maybe robbing of you of valuable capacity.

Let me know your thoughts...I know you're limited in your response having never used the machine. By the way, I'd like to take you up on your offer to help with development, and let send you a safety manual for perusal and safety feedback. Email is bigoletree@juno.com

Tierson
 
Hey TiersonB, what does the remote look like? when i get the smaller rig, i'll need to be able to lock it into tilted positions (at least 80 degrees maybe 90) the rigid rod idea 6-8 feet sounds good. Possibly the unit could be tilted on the ground and use chain or brackets (running from the unit to the spacer rod) to lock the tilted position? With the joints at each end of the rod, the limbs and unit should swing freely to balance or set down at the chipper!
 
Mike Poor:

OK, if you must be able to grab up to 80-90 degrees (almost completely vertical wood) then you'll have to wait for the larger and heavier machine. That machine has a pin, similar to your description, that holds the machine in place at different inclinations. The smaller machine can't be tlted like that because it isn't designed for that kind of loading and because it wouldn't be able to access its hydraulic fluid. I'll post photos of the controller later.

I'm really curious about your knuckleboom still....How much are you good for at 40, 60, and 80 feet radius (To me the most important radii for tree work) If you've got around 3500-4000 pounds of lifting capacity at 80 feet of radius, then you might just use the heavier machine. If you had to translate your knuckleboom to an equivalent tonnage for an extendable (straight boom)machine, then what would it be? (My guess at this point: a 28-ton, but I'm curious to see what you say!)I'm still not razor-clear on the Knuckle vs. Straight-Boom comparison....

I know that you wouldn't want to ruin your capacity just to have a grapple at the end. The larger machine hasn't even been engineered, but it will not weigh less than 700 pounds, and could be as much as 950 lbs. Rounding off, that would leave a standard 20-ton (straight boom) machine with almost zero capacity at 80 feet radius. No good....

Tell me your thoughts...
smile.gif


Tierson
 
TiersonB, at 87 foot radius it's rated for 1762 lbs. even if the boom is completely horizontal! That should be good for alot of brush picks which is all i plan on using it for. Trunk wood is easy to sling. But brush can be a pain, at least until i get my BIGGER RIGGER! Tell me when we can test one of these out!!! how about today! (just kidding!)
 
ok im sure you've thought about this and i know these days with split crystals and the like theres many difference frequencies for radi to work under....but what happens if by some chance and kid nearby happens to be using a radio controlled car or something with the same frequency
 
Hey Steve bullman, An average remote couldn't do it! If an identical remote system was working within 300 feet (very slim chance of even this) then there would be a 1 in 100,000 chance that the "I's and O's" of the microprocessors could cross for a second. All radio remotes that i'm aware of have emergency stop buttons (even on my old crane) I keep my stop pushed in anytime the crane isn't moving! The remotes also have bars (hand rests) over the paddle control levers to protect the levers from being accidentially bumped.
 

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Thanks for the question, it's a real concern!

The RigEm&Roll utilizes frequency-hopping technology to maintain a secure link. This system, which is used by the military to guide missiles, switches frequencies 40 times a second according to a pre-determined pattern of hopping. The remote receiver and remote control are paired with this hopping sequence. Nothing can interfere for more than a 40th of a second. In addition, there is a blocking feature similar to what Mike described...
 
cool....ive not really followed the developement of radio controlled gadgets for a few years now...i guess things have moved along pretty well!!
 
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