Tips and Tricks

If you don't own a GRCS or related lowering devices, tensioning the portawrap can be easy with just one ground man (1/2inch rigging line). Put one wrap on the porty, above it attach a hand ascender with non locking revolver on lower hole to set up mechanical advantage. Put tail of rope in it and cinch tight. What I like about this system instead of say the stein pulley is that it is easy to take off one handed while keeping tension on the line with your other hand. No prussic needed yet simple. CMI expedition hand ascender very easy one handed.
 
Seems like I saw one of the pulleys, can't remember which one, where the nut was removed, a cheek plate reversed, and nut reinstalled. The purpose was to give one-handed access to midline attachment/removal. It may have been on a rads set up but I wonder if it could work tightening up the portawrap too.
 
TreeLogic said:
Seems like I saw one of the pulleys, can't remember which one, where the nut was removed, a cheek plate reversed, and nut reinstalled. The purpose was to give one-handed access to midline attachment/removal. It may have been on a rads set up but I wonder if it could work tightening up the portawrap too.
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That's a good idea. So only one cheek attached to karabiner, the other cheek opened, or at least bows outward? Seems like it might pull crooked though? Maybe not.

This was the stein pulley I was talking about. http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1634 Its an awesome idea, but I don't like the prussic for ease of use.
 
yoyoman said:
In 25 words or less and with a picture if possible, it would be great to see some of your ideas.
This thread may give you some ideas of a discussion about a technique or concept to start elsewhere but I would like to see this stay simple.
I look forward to many great ideas.
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yoyoman said:
22 cent rubber corner trap vs. 1.59 corner trap made from latex rubber tubing.
Helps manage flop and equipment orientation.
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That's awsome
 
Using an ascender as a rope clamp in a mechanical advantage system is NOT a good idea!

They are NOT made to take loads of 2:1 and beyond. Over the years the only time I've seen ropes damaged in MA systems is when they're used as anchors.

The reason to use friction hitches is that they will slip/grab and not damage the host/base rope.

Use tools within their design factors.
 
Treezybreez said:
I would like to add keeping your lanyard adjuster on the opposite side of your body from your saw. I am not left handed but I sure like not having to untangle the tail end of my lanyard from my saw.
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Is there a rule about this? I keep my lanyards on opposite sides so one is on the same side as my chainsaw and the other is on the side I hang my handsaw/poleclip. I recently got reprimanded and told I couldn't have my lanyards hanging on opposite sides. I always thought it was a personal preference thing and I'm really careful to untangle it everytime I reach for my saw. Just seems there are often times when i need my lanyard to be thrown from right to left and plenty of times it is way more efficient to tend slack from the right side.
 
paul phalloides said:
Is there a rule about this? I keep my lanyards on opposite sides so one is on the same side as my chainsaw and the other is on the side I hang my handsaw/poleclip. I recently got reprimanded and told I couldn't have my lanyards hanging on opposite sides. I always thought it was a personal preference thing and I'm really careful to untangle it everytime I reach for my saw. Just seems there are often times when i need my lanyard to be thrown from right to left and plenty of times it is way more efficient to tend slack from the right side.
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so your using two lanyards, one on each side?
 
MikePowers321 said:
so your using two lanyards, one on each side?
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Yeah, two lanyards, one on each side. I have the tail of the lanyard clipped up onto the back of the saddle and a rope lanyard on the saw so unless I have just the right amount of slack in the tail of the positioning lanyard it doesn't really tangle. When it does tangle I just undo it as I'm unhooking my saw. I can see how this could be a problem for someone who is not paying attention before starting the saw but no more so than having to look at your feet to make sure you don't spike your rope (when spiking) would be.
 
Paul, is there a situation where a 2 in 1 style lanyard isn't effective for you, but your double lanyard works better? It just seems like you could get the same effect without all the jumble.
 
Yeah man, I would pick a side and use a 2 in 1, like Logic said. But whatever feels right for you.

Having two separate lines, lanyard adjusters, snaps, and carabiners seems very gear intensive. I would be more upset with the amount of rope catching on small branches vs. catching my chainsaw.
 
I guess the only two in one style lanyards I've used were of a really old style and the hip prussiks didn't work well. I really really like my current set up. I use two 15' lanyards and like how I can use the full length of both at the same time. I'm the only one I know who keeps them this way and up until recently no one ever said anything to me about it so I never paid much thought to it. I guess the main thing I like about this set up is say for removing a large pine with lots of branches. As I approach a branch and throw my alternate lanyard (right to left) over the limb I am instantly able to release the tension on my primary lanyard (left to right) allowing me to sit in the alternate lanyard. Then I can snug the alternate lanyard to right where I want it. I guess it isn't such a big deal to do things the other way I've just developed this system and it seems to work great for me.
 
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