Tips and Tricks

I've been using a $2 leather welding rod belt pouch for a handsaw scabbard. It's loose so I also tie a piece of worn out throw line on as a lanyard. The teeth bite into the leather to secure it and it's a quick draw holster.
 
After putting a caritool on your saddle slide a BandIt into the slot end to keep it from rolling. Mine used to end up upside down from time to time
 
I've seen groundies come up with some cool stuff. One puts a thin sideways branch on the ground, piles as much as he can carry on it and uses the thin branch to wrap his bundle. Or building stairs out of blocks to roll heavy stumps onto the high deck trailer. Not so cool when they start inventing knots.
 
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This tip brought to you by Derrik Martin....When redirecting a single line, use a munter hitch on the biner. This dosent allow the climbers weight to pull branch unions together or apart. rope then acts like a brace. a definite game changer...allowing you to redirect into much smaller limbs.

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Good tip but I would recommend a clove over a munter, the munter is commonly used to feed slack with added friction. a clove will hold solid.

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I prefer the munter for this reason. If i was to take a fall or be pulled it will give and flex. Dispersing more energy and force. This is an added bonus allowing me to feel more confident in smaller redirect points. Also for me its quicker to tie and adjust the munter hitch.

The extra positive to the clove hitch is that since it locks if your tie in was to get severed you would still be tied in (given that your redirect would be able to hold you).

I think both increase the safety of redirects with SRT.
 
interesting thought on the use of the munter, do you ever find that it adjusts under only a positioning load? I have never done it but would think that it might shift with only body weight on it.
 
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interesting thought on the use of the munter, do you ever find that it adjusts under only a positioning load? I have never done it but would think that it might shift with only body weight on it.

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The Munter is directional and automatically reverses. Since it's drag is enough to reverse, it should not care if there is a load on it.

I assume the idea behind this is you want the additional drag so it automatically helps to set the redirect to a better angle ?

Shouldn't there be a concern with the relatively small bend radius produced by a Munter for this application ?
 
I'm not worried about the bend radius. I make sure that the line does not run across the biner. Thats the bigger concern i have.

The munter holds it place well. but some movement isn't a bad thing as it adjusts as needed.

So are my field findings
 
The Munter works great in a carabiner. One trick to use for safety is to girth the web loop to the carabiner to ensure the carabiner stays properly oriented.

I like a footlock prusik for a static redirect. I use a 3 or 4 wrap French Prusik and then tie off to a branch with the remaining length of footlock prusik.
 
In regards to the hitch hiker, I put an ISC fixed plate pulley on the bottom of the oxan so the side plates ride on the outside of the attachment ring on my saddle. Makes tending slack much easier.
 
I've seen other threads where guys are using a pulley to tend, but it seemed to have been met with mixed reviews. I haven't tried it myself, but if there is one drawback to the hitch hiker, I would say how difficult it can be at times to tend slack, so this would be a great thing.
So what's the final word on the pulley add-on?
I don't have one otherwise I would just try it myself. How long can an aluminum pulley be expected to last in the mish-mash of hitch hiker steel?
 
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I've seen other threads where guys are using a pulley to tend, but it seemed to have been met with mixed reviews. I haven't tried it myself, but if there is one drawback to the hitch hiker, I would say how difficult it can be at times to tend slack, so this would be a great thing.
So what's the final word on the pulley add-on?
I don't have one otherwise I would just try it myself. How long can an aluminum pulley be expected to last in the mish-mash of hitch hiker steel?

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This is assuming that all HH users are tending the unit from a connection point on the top of the carabiner with some sort of arched rubber/leather strip, etc...

What I gather from some full-time HH users is that to ease slack tending, you need to have the HH connected to your Chest Harness, Lanyard Over The Shoulder, Holder Upper Thingy, etc... It also sounds as though whatever chest tending system is used, having some elasticity to it will allow the HH to remain connected in a variety of body positions other than vertical. By keeping the HH carabiner up or "tended", when you tail the line from below, it will facilitate the release of the carabiner's pressure on the HH Body, allowing that pinch point to open and for the rope to glide through. I sure find it difficult to explain, so I hope this helps.

One of the reasons that I do not use the HH more often is that without a pulley, dropping through a suitable branch union and leaving my tail behind (pony tail) is difficult once my line loads up in the union. I must dump a long enough bight through in advance, rather than my descent pulling the bight as I go.

Beyond that, Paul has created a really cool device!
 
Aaron, if you can do it, I'd like to see a pic of that setup too. I've tried a pinto rig spacer on the oxan before. I can tell you anything in that spot that isn't steel isn't going to last long.

Once you find the right hitch cord and length slack tending gets much easier. It took me a long time to get it dialed in.
 
For ascent the LOTS is the simplest and easiest I can figure, but I'm thinking more about moving around the tree, coming back from a limb walk, etc, just pulling slack by hand. A quick 3:1 makes it really easy, but just for shorter little moves is when it can be tough, so I would love to hear more about this pulley set up
 
I was keeping my MagThrowBags in a throw line mug with my chalk line reels and two throw bags.
It was difficult to pull them apart at times, so I opened up one end of the stitching on the brand tag of my saddle and put in a small piece of sheet metal. Now the magnets are easy to access and stay in place until needed.



MagThrowBag.JPG
 
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In regards to the hitch hiker, I put an ISC fixed plate pulley on the bottom of the oxan so the side plates ride on the outside of the attachment ring on my saddle. Makes tending slack much easier.

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Tried this today with petzl fixe. It works awesome. Nice one aaronf-this really solves what I thought was one of few (if any) drawbacks to the hitch hiker. Thanks for that
 
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In regards to the hitch hiker, I put an ISC fixed plate pulley on the bottom of the oxan so the side plates ride on the outside of the attachment ring on my saddle. Makes tending slack much easier.

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Tried this today with petzl fixe. It works awesome. Nice one aaronf-this really solves what I thought was one of few (if any) drawbacks to the hitch hiker. Thanks for that

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Pictures?
 

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