timber hitch for rigging

Hey treespyder
Do you use the TH to rope down wood? Not to itself but butt heavy like to another rigging point.I could tell stories of the sh$$ i have done with the hitch but we have seen what that turns into.
 
i've used at doubled pulley/ redirect position or a Porty termination for same, when Cow wouldn't reach all the way around anchor. But, i maid sure it was right/right, and had stopper too, viewing it's weaknesses and fortifying them so.
 
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A knot is not either 100% right or wrong...

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"Here lies dead Ned. He always got his knots mostly right..."

TS, I know of nobody who knows more about knots than you. But when lives are at stake it is not the same as tying your shoes wrong.

The point of my statement is to make sure what you are tying will work.

Dave
 
They Never let me play in the sand box tough guy , so I just used the sliding board . I call a spade a spade , don't give advice when you don't have any , that's all . If you wanted to talk about the jacked bowline , maybe you should have started a thread on the "jacked bowline"( you din't know what you were tying) . Bubble boy , snot nose , yeah yeah , that's all fine . The fact of the whole thread is that you don't know what you're talking about . Can you please just say something about the TH, anything besides that "I don't know" so you changed the topic . Please reason with me here . I'm not the best , but I do know what I'm talking about . Take a lesson from the treespyder , he knows how to talk about a hitch/knot( he is the best) . Bring your tough guy game on anyday , Sunday to Saturday , I don't rest . Change your sign to GovJamesMcGreevey1 , that'll do , you ain't me !
Now back to the hitch , sorry about salty nutz1. I picked a Ash tree up off a house today , placed a cowhitch on the base and a timber hitch up high of a tree behind it . I tied the timber hitch up high because the sling on the block was too small , tied the end of the rope to a truck with a port awrap on the back and the Ash came right up off the house . Both hitches , stillson and TH worked great . Again great for rigging , especially when you have a small sling . I know I could have just tied the jacked bowline , played in a sandbox and wiped the snot from my nose , but I inhaled it , my bad . That sand gets everywhere too
 
good job TH is a great hitch. I will admit i use RB the most.And yes sand does suck im done with this back and fourth crap its not getting anywhere and its gone on long enough. obviously we are both stuborn and pig headed which alot of treeclimbers are i guess it comes with the trade. anyway have a good one and keep it safe.
 
Hi, Wow, knoting seems to get juices flowing like, well knots. I hope my post does not. Talking about the knot on the limb being lowered. I see two basic differences between the TH and RB. The TH chokes harder when loaded in the correct direction and can stay choked which is why a half hitch is placed in front of it so it will be loaded correctly. Like a hangman's knot does. The RB seems to me that, particulary on smaller limbs, can slip on the limb, it does not seem to choke so well. The knot does not fail, but its hold on the limb does. A stub would, of course, catch the RB. For my money, I use and like the timber hitch for anchoring a portawrap at ground level. Where I know where the load is coming from. If it is on a limb or something that might roll the wrong way and open the knot anything like that I like a clove hitch with two half hitches on the working end put and a figure of 8 in the bitter end. Tighten it down hard before I cut and it stays tight on the limb. Slow, oh yeah. I don't care. However, if there are stubs or branches fore and aft of the knot then an RB is fast and would seem to pose no problem with slipping on the branch. I think this a subject with much to be learned. eljefe
 
both the th and the rb are great. ive never had a rb fail in any situation. you could always use a keeper then tie your rb about a foot from that. keeper meaning take the rope go around piece all the way then go under the rope than tie the rb about a foot away. hope that helps
 
Re: treeclimber1

Hi, Thanks T1. I am thinking by a keeper that might be a half hitch or a marl. "A technique to spread the load and increase the purchase" (quote from Sherril's website on knots). And well put, I think. Here we have alot of tulip poplar trees. The bark on the small trees and younger limbs of large trees is slicker than slick when wet. Only exceeded when the bark itself slips. My dad had an expression for that degree of slipperiness. However is is not printable here. You only have to see one of those limbs come out of a knot once to really get religion. The knot is fine, the limb just ain't in it no more. eljefe.
 
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Another option is to use whoopie or loopie slings to place blocks or port-a-wraps. They are quick to size and are relatively goof-proof.

Some arborists are now going with knot-less rigging! Which would incorporate web slings and Carabiners.

Just some of the alternatives to rigging solutions.

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I find it hard to believe any professional arborist would even suggest incorporating a carabiner in their takedown rigging period.

A steel clevis yes, a carabiner never.

I know two climbers that crippled themselves by mistakenly thinking biners were appropriate for takedown rigging.

Think about that real hard guys, it aint professional by any stretch, and could kill either you or your groundmen.

Hopefully you were just kidding?

jomoco
 
Re: treeclimber1

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jomoco, I didn't say I used biners for rigging, I said I have seen it done. Take a trip over to TW and look at the video thread. That is where I saw it!

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Believe me TD, I know lots of guys do it, I just find it somewhat suicidal at best.

I also realize alot of guys use biners in their bodyline systems, and have crippled themselves doing so.

I use biners myself for bodyline redirects and light speedlining etc, but never as a primary bodyline anchor.

I use double locking steel rope snaps on all my bodyline primary attachment points exclusively.

Show me a biner capable of meeting it's rated capacity when that force is applied to the biner's gate.

If you are in this biz long enough, you'll accept that murphy's law needs to be taken seriously, and active steps to mitigate that law should be standard operating procedure.

I've been climbing professionally for 35 years now guys.

jomoco
 
Re: treeclimber1

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
jomoco, I didn't say I used biners for rigging, I said I have seen it done. Take a trip over to TW and look at the video thread. That is where I saw it!

[/ QUOTE ]

Believe me TD, I know lots of guys do it, I just find it somewhat suicidal at best.

I also realize alot of guys use biners in their bodyline systems, and have crippled themselves doing so.

I use biners myself for bodyline redirects and light speedlining etc, but never as a primary bodyline anchor.

I use double locking steel rope snaps on all my bodyline primary attachment points exclusively.

Show me a biner capable of meeting it's rated capacity when that force is applied to the biner's gate.

If you are in this biz long enough, you'll accept that murphy's law needs to be taken seriously, and active steps to mitigate that law should be standard operating procedure.

I've been climbing professionally for 35 years now guys.

jomoco

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Jomoco

I have been incorporating steel carabiners in rigging situation thoughout the whole of my career now without a single faliure. Although knowing how, when, where or when-not to apply them is imperative.

I dont believe in murphy's law, if I did I wouldn't dare leave the house. I do however believe that some people are a little less concientious or forward thinking than other's.

I'm not a teacher, if I were I'd probably have to re-think much of my work ethic where it might be mis-understood or taken for granted....so carabiners would have to go, yes. But I get hired because of people's trust in me, not my equipment.

Great to see you on TB, look forward to reading more.

Reg
 
Re: treeclimber1

by virtue of it's length and shape a snap is more self correcting against being leveraged by lines; but, it couldn't take it's full rated capacity against it's gate either. i'd use krab /sling sets on most branches, and sometimes rescue pulleys and krabs for pivot / overhead redirect, even to mechanical advantage.

On the other hand krabs are lighter, more discreet, and less likely to get leveraged by wood etc. than snaps.
 
Re: treeclimber1

Ummmmmmmmm how do you get 2 closed devices (such as fig.8 and D-ring) into a captive eye krab or snap?

i think that if we:

A) all ways use a shrinking eye to keep krab from being leveraged,

and

B) don't use 2 non-flexible devices in a row (krab to fig.8); unless you can hang correctly on 8, then descend without unloading. Like dressing and aligning fig.8 under guard of lanyard, then release lanyard and descend smoothly without unloading, not jumping forward and bailing out on fig.8(or any other system)....,

we should be alright....

Also, for less twisting; use properly stored and maintained lines; and keep brake hand inline with Standing, not angled so much to the side (when using fig.8).
 
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