Tight Eye or Girth Eye?

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So the question then becomes: With so many climbers preferring a tight eye, why do so few retailers sell real tight eyes?

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The tight eyes cost a bit more to produce, since they are a bit harder to make.

For what it's worth, I just cut off a large eye on my Fly to replace it with a tight eye.....

Talk about a splice that took longer to do than normal....... but it turned out fantastic.

So my vote is for the tight eye.

On a more serious note. The nice thing with a tight eye on a climbing line is that you can pretty much only use it for a caribiner and the possibliity of it being used for a lifting or towing job is reduced.

At our shop all the customers get their pick, tight eye or large eye. Well over 90% of the climbing lines go out with tight eyes.
 
Really Nick? "Even most companies tight eyes are too big?" Have yet to hear that about our work.

The system you're referring to above was not the reason for long eyes, that system came a distant second. Connecting the splice to a rope snap was a bigger part of the reason for long eyes in the late 90's. That, and the fact that 16-strand (rope of choice back then) was spliced without the core and some thought girthing for strength was necessary.

I'm with others on the tight eye. Good to see this conversation. I used a long eye once and that was it. Took us a few years to get around to offering another 150 sku's into splicing but we did it.

I think safety trainers came up with the long eye theory regarding need for strength.

I think everybody should go tight. Okay. Nuff there.

PROBLEMS;
Spreads out in the bottom of the carabiner
Depending on rope, tendency to spring open, especially when new
Bulky
Obnoxious
Always late to the job

As for a tight thimble for carabiners we worked with Alu Design to come up with 13mm i.d. rope thimble for improved beaner contact. Have em this spring.

Just keepin that record straight. Best to all.
 
Large eye for sure with a rubber band you get the best of both worlds,I like the bend radius as well.Think ive actually had tight eyes get stuck in pulleys and friction savers.
 
Large eye but mostly because I've had the same climbing line for a long time. I remember, like what Tobe said, when trainers said that girthing a long eye was stronger and lessened a side loading hazard. It seems like it adds bends. I've had the long eye on my Poison High Vee open a William carabiner in loading and unloading and thought...now how did the falling portion of my climbing line get in there. Once I caught my breath and went back to the drawing board with my system I changed over to a ball lock carabiner but now it's probably time to update my line...and go to a small eye. Whiz
 
Small eye. My first one came on PI from Sherrill and it was about perfect. I've done my own since then.

Seems like the girth eye might mess with the hitch if you were using a hitch climber.
 
I've used both along with a "medium" that a friend of mine spliced into a HI-VIZ line. Have a tight splice on Poison Ivy that I am now using. It takes some work to get the biner on it which is ok because you actually have to look at your connection. It seems that the PI tight splice just refuses to go through my friction saver from the ground. That is my only gripe about it, otherwise i really like the PI.
 
Now i would think that girth hitching an eye splice reduces more rope strength than a bend ratio of a tight eye, maybe someone could do a breaking strength test... Personally, I like the streamline effect of a supper tight eye that does not move around on my biner and will also easily run through a cambium saver with rings/ pulley, or custom false crotch/ static line with pulley. I usually do a 3.5 inch eye on my measurement for my eye splices. Now, I only climb srt, however, I still need to splice my fliplines/ and for fellow drt amigo's... It wouuld be interesting to see if a long/ girthed eye is really stronger than a non-girthed small eye given the bend ratios. Now with rigging slings it's a different story due to chocking against the throat or taper, however, you would'nt girth hitch the sling eye to your block now would you...


Stay tied in,

X-man
 
i wouldnt girth the large eye theres really no benefit in that.I used the tight eye for a few years but then went back to the long eye so I could do the endless loop.I just put a a blue bandit dealio on the eye that way its really tight and cannot side load.
 
so why have the large eye? This is my point, I don't think the bend ratio on the small eye reduces line strength more tha a large eye that one would girth hitch in this scenario, in rigging I can see the difference due to having your cow hitch tail pass over a throat of a splice as opposed to passing over the two ends of a long eye...

in a climbing situation, i like to be more streamline and there are less variables/ concerns as far as loads go.

Stay tied in,

X-man
 
So I can do the endless loop.I dont think its an option with the tight eye or at least in the particular set up I learned watching Beddes in hawaii.Sometimes ive got the tight eye stuck in stuff because its larger.But yeah the tight eye is great and I used it for many years but went back to the larger eye to accomodate newer techniques But I never girth it because in that configuration it would be to bulky.
 
tight, built for speed
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Really Nick? "Even most companies tight eyes are too big?" Have yet to hear that about our work.

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That's because of the big arb suppliers, your eyes are tighter than most.

There are people selling 2" eyes as tight eyes. Blech.

Thanks for clearing me up on the long eye being for the girthing to snaps. I did jokingly mention "other than the 3 people climbing on that system" in my previous post. It's good to hear there is (was) a reasonable reason for the large eyes.

So I wonder nowadays how many people out there (not just here on the buzz) are climbing with snaps for their climbing system?

love
nick
 
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