Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
As with face-cuts and strap hinges there are a variety of ways to approach step cuts. If it is cut to become ‘free’, which is easily and safely achievable on vertical timber, then a tiny amount of pull is all it takes to lift it or more rather ‘swipe’ it into the rigging. I predominately use this as it is fast and efficient, looks to me like it would suit your no bullshit approach to wrecking trees.In this setup the bull line is at a very steep angle so the Hobbs is offering almost no pulling power. With no real pulling power, snap cutting a 300-800 lbs piece of vertical wood is not something I care to do. Thats just me though?
In case you haven't noticed, everything I do is Standard Operating Procedure. I'm a meat and potatoes climber, and I leave that fancy shit to much better tree-men than myself.
I appreciate the kind words New2trees, but I am doing nothing special. Just been doing it a long time, and have become very comfortable and confident in my routine.I took my first year of youtube arborist training watching cowboy's cutting loose 300 lb chunks, spinning them as they swing and ring the spar a few feet from the guy in the tree.....I knew I could probably perform the same work myself albeit not nearly as quickly but also knew that was not something I ever wanted to try to learn.
Then I saw vids by people like you and saw how safely the same work could be accomplished with the use of good fundamentals and a lot of knowledge....Hell after watching some of your vids other than lacking the knowledge you make it look so easy I am confident that I could do the same thing.....then I look at your notches and cuts and some of mine and reality kicks me in the teeth![]()
Magic cut---- deep kerf, beyond COG, on rigging tree sideIn this setup the bull line is at a very steep angle so the Hobbs is offering almost no pulling power. With no real pulling power, snap cutting a 300-800 lbs piece of vertical wood is not something I care to do. Thats just me though?
The magic cut is a very cool cut and I know it well, but as I said I am not a fan of using any form of a snap cut on vertical wood that could beat me to death if it happened to release in the wrong direction. I view my hinge as a line of defense against having a log go backwards/sideways on me so I am not opposed to using/fighting it to slowly and smoothly get my wood to go where I intend it to go. Again, that is just me!!Magic cut---- deep kerf, beyond COG, on rigging tree side
Add snipe, retaining a FULL DUTCHMAN,
2nd kerf, back-cut, down lower than Cut 1. Self-releasing snap cut. No hinge to fight.
Thanks Gord, TB from days gone by!!
So Rico, you don't go up 3-4" per step, huh, like your wanting to get up there, or something.
Man, it is repetition. See the lines that the bar will cut before you dig in. Take your time and form good habits. It is better to spend five minutes getting a good notch than to spend one minute five times making a crap one and fixing it. After a while, the whole sighting process gets much faster.I took my first year of youtube arborist training watching cowboy's cutting loose 300 lb chunks, spinning them as they swing and ring the spar a few feet from the guy in the tree.....I knew I could probably perform the same work myself albeit not nearly as quickly but also knew that was not something I ever wanted to try to learn.
Then I saw vids by people like you and saw how safely the same work could be accomplished with the use of good fundamentals and a lot of knowledge....Hell after watching some of your vids other than lacking the knowledge you make it look so easy I am confident that I could do the same thing.....then I look at your notches and cuts and some of mine and reality kicks me in the teeth![]()