The knut

S

sean1

Location
UK Northwest
I've been climbing on this friction hitch for about a year now moving on from the blakes hitch. I read that the knut is self tending which I discovered when I used a shorter loop, though it didn't shift up the rope that much. I've tried using this knot in a couple of different combinations with a petzl pulley but it always results in the knut jamming up. Does anyone know how to set-up the knut so that it is self-tending without the use of extra gear?
 
Tuning. Try TK, Icicle, Sailor's Gripping to see what fits your own, gear's and system's peculiarities.

i've been werking on what comes out to be A VT with short braid under and a modified Sailors Gripping to finish with a muenter instead of half... i like flat 3/8 Tenex; rather than round. But it is very self tending; must be tuned and dressed right; but then rope's own weight can draw'er thru. Carefull with any self tending play that is real good; for that is dangerously close to the line of too good(slip both ways); and you have to technique too good out IMLHO.
 
Cheers. I reckon the knut has some great features that haven't been tapped into yet. Check this out.. I found an old plastic tube about 2 inch wide and maybe 4 long. I then put everything through this (both tails of the knut and the eye splice) so that the tube was sitting on the carabiner and just below the gripping parts of the knut. The tail of climbing line was the only part not in the tube and when I pulled and thrusted it tended a treat. However when I began to descend then try to ascend again, the knut would over-tighten and not work so well. I haven't yet tried it with other knots but there has to be a way of making this work.
 
I climb on the knut with three wraps up on top and then the legs with the hitch below. I use hrc from new england ropes. I've messed around with other knots and materials, but I can't seem to find anything that is as reliable as the hrc and knut. Hardly ever binds on itself (as long as the hrc isn't too old and dirty) even after sitting in it for a while and oh so responsive. I always use a hitch tending pulley though. I never have heard of the knut self tending, and frankly, I have never tried. I suppose I should look into that. Thanks for sharing.
dan
 
I have the knut on my lanyard without a pulley and works well, the bottom cross acts as the self tending part but as a main climbing knot i suggest you use a pulley as it does make life easiler, excellent knot tho, easy to tie and effective.
 
I tried the knut but with my tenex eye-n-eye it still worked itself tight.

I swapped over to the "ascender hitch" as shown in "On Rope" The knot is designed for a single eye rope but I adapted for use with an eye-n-eye.

The hitch can be tied with either the Bowline or Fig-8 as the base knot. I have found it to be extremely responsive both in and out, can be tied with as many wraps as you want, and by design, never binds.

Only real downsides are that if you use an eye and eye it becomes tedious to tie it mid-line around a climbing rope. Not difficult, just tedious.

The tediousness comes from dressing it to meet your personal preferences. That is why I have only set it up on my lanyard.

If you have a strong enough prussik cord (5k pounds avg) then you can go with the original single leg version as it was designed and tie it and untie it all day long without much hassle.

Nearest I can tell is that the cord used for this hitch needs to be like most prussik cords, smaller diameter than the climbing line it is to be used on.
 
Hey Sean,

Really it is tied the same way but instead of having just the "load" end of the cord attached to my biner I make sure that both the running and working end of the rope are teh same lenght and attach them both to my biner.

That is partly why it is a pain to tie and untie for use as a normal climbing hitch, but is otherwise very effective for the hip lanyard.
 
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