Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Most of my trees are straight enough that I just use the center plunge to fascilitate the falling cut. Like I said, I AM running 24" bars on all my big saws now. When hinge strength isn't needed, the center plunge is just fast and easy. There's not much to think about or any way to over or under cut anything. So I don't know what you're talking about when you say "extra work"... At most it's a matter of seconds. But actually, the ease of the cut can save time. Time that might be spent on banging out the notch or repostitioning the saw to match the cuts perfectly etc... Making a fuss over a few extra seconds on a falling cut makes no sense when you're dropping only a tree or two a day in Arb work. Whereas, saving 30-60 seconds on each falling cut can really add up at the end of the day for a logger.A full length hinge undoubtedly provides more control to a stem. I still can't quite understand why you choose 2 thick posts instead of 1 long (tapered if need be) hinge. I understand the outside 2 corners are really all that is needed for directional control, but why take the risk of removing the center, especially on urban trees where defects are plenty. It seems like a bit of chainsaw showmanship and wasted moves in that setting. In the woods where every inch of that veneer log counts and to get it on the ground without tearing, splitting etc the extra work pays. In someone's yard you are adding an additional what if. And I don't like it. You do you man, but I hope people aren't paying to much attention to your vids cos this is one that takes some serious technical knowledge. I think someone/something could get messed up.
I learned how to gut a hinge in 2013. So I've only been using it for 11 years on the regular. I have never used it in an urban setting. I still do tree work to stay current and sharp, but it's not my every day.
Be safe. This video was taken yesterday while cutting on a logging job.
P.s
Why you would take a running start on a pull tree with a front end loader sounds insane. Especially with the tree cut up amd standing on posts. I guess I'm playing a diff game then you Daniel.
Be safe
When hinge strength is needed the center plunge becomes a much more deliberate and precise operation. I rarely if ever cut a little and pull a little.. I decide where and how much to take out of the center, then cut up the hinge with plunge and the back cut to my premeditated specs, and then call for the pull. Sometimes I will pretension the pull line and wait to see a little movement in the back cut before I stop cutting and call for the pull. With the rare really tight shots, I may stay at the stump and steer the tree with the back cut, but that isn't often needed in my market. And many times these days, I AM doing both the cutting and the pulling, as my old equipment op just lost his second leg to daibetes. So I have no choice but to cut up the hinge and then get in the machine and pull.
That maple was 5' across on the long side. I actually didn't use my saws on it, but I'm pretty sure the last saw I used was a 24" bar. At most it ws 28" ... And I wasn't going 20 miles an hour when the loader hit the pull lines. I just brought it up a few feet to put a little slack in the lines, so the machine wasn't pulling from a dead stop. I'll see if my buddy has the video on his phone... Why would you think there's a problem getting a little momentum with the loader?
It seems that we are indeed operating in two different worlds. You think I'm crazy and I can't understand why I have to explain this stuff to faller of your experience.
Before I explain how to the center plunge adds more strength to the hinge can someone please tell us what does hinge strength mean? In other words what benefit does hinge strength offer the faller?
for an experienced faller hinge strength means only ONE THING. It's going sound obvious once someone says it, but rarely if ever do people mention this important disctinction...... Once that is understood, then the way by which the center plunge adds hinge strength should be fairly simple to understand.
Does anyone here care to explain? ANY TAKERS???
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