Tapered Hinge: Diar(y)rhea of a thread gone wrong and left un-moderated

Use Tapered Hinge against Side Lean?

  • Huh?

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Never

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Hardly

    Votes: 1 3.7%

  • Sometimes

    Votes: 15 55.6%

  • Preferably

    Votes: 7 25.9%

  • Religiously

    Votes: 4 14.8%
  • Total voters
    27
  • Poll closed .
Say hello to my lil friend :reloco:
18 volt
980 FPM
4.5" bar
1/4"/0.050 pitch
4.2lbs
Don't give me no guff on removing the anti kick back tip guard and the hand guard and the eye, ear and head ppdp. Its how I roll muthafucka!:birra:

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So Rico do you just cut an open face notch in the direction you want it everytime? You don’t have any situations where you add something out of the ordinary to your notch? I’m really asking because your work speaks for itself in what I’ve seen but you seem to critique as if every notch you make never strays from the book.
 
I don't often stray from the classics, because I rarely need to. Like the rest of my cuts, when I do pull out a trick cut, I always strive to nail my cuts, and keep my mechanics sound. Attention to detail is how I was taught. No sloppy, its good enough, bullshit for me. Not really the best line of work for that kind of mentality.

It is good to have these cuts in your arsenal, but we as climbers have access to much more predictable, safer, powerful tools to get our wood where we want it. This stuff can be fairly simple if you just let it be.
 
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So do you feel none of these untraditional cuts can work or you think daniel just doesn’t know how to do them. Not trying to start shit just trying to see what your reasoning is behind such confidence with these posts
 
Jem4417 said:
So do you feel none of these untraditional cuts can work or you think daniel just doesn’t know how to do them. Not trying to start shit just trying to see what your reasoning is behind such confidence with these posts
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I just got done saying that I use some of them from time to time. I do that because some can be useful in certain situations. I also said that the key is attention to detail, nailing your cuts, and sound mechanics.

If you are referring to my confidence in what I do, it’s because I have been in this game a long time, and am very comfortable at heights, or with a saw in my hand.

If you are referring to my confidence as it pertains to Daniels vids and pics, that one kind of speaks for itself. I have been breaking down his cuts, and simply showing the error of his ways. Its all right there for us to see, if you know what your looking at. Bypass, destroyed hinge, multi level backcuts, trees gone sideways, dull saws, severely undershot and overshot backcuts, lazy unclean undercuts, ass backwards slice cuts, ect, ect, etc, etc.

This is a man who literally can’t cover the basics, such as making an undercut with an undersized bar, so why is he playing around with a swinging dutchy? Why is he allowed to sell himself as an expert on the subject?
 
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rico said:
Why is he allowed to sell himself as an expert on the subject?
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Because there is nothing stopping him. Not that there should be. For the most part Murphy is full of shit and it is good that he is being pointed out. YouTube is full of self appointed 'expert' charlatans and Murph is one.
 
rico said:
No doubt the Silvey’s are a way more powerful tool than the Salt Creek, but the HI Jack is all I need these days. Whenever I get into something gnarly these days I simply borrow a buddies old Silveys.
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Good info. I didn't know anyone still made jacks. Thanks.


I don't think Silvey makes jacks anymore...Double-ram, at least. Not that many BIG Trees around, like days gone by.

I'd kinda like a nice jack. Way better than beating heavy trees into submission... Younger man's shoulders, and all.
Just so little need. But, when you need something, you need something.
 
southsoundtree said:
That's one ram... Silvery made connected double-ram jacks, too.

Two 16 Sq.inch Rams, at 5,000 psi = "gentle persuation".

I've used them under 10 times. Jacking big rotten trees, and wedging over dozens of dead and rotten trees per day doesn't leave much time for theatrics and Hollywood.




In case anyone wonders wedges can lift a F-ton, when used by a skilled practitioner. Wedges and ax are considered ppe for fallers, by some.

I'll try to set up a triple hinge stack, if I can...I have to high stump a tree from a springboard, so it is not an ideal set up for the triple-wedge, and it's a tree that could use a double-stack, if that, as it's not back-leaning.

Stacking the three wedges gives amazing lift for back-leaners.
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This is our favorite stacking method. Works great and much less of an opportunity for wedges to kick ou under the tension. A lot of times I’ll add one on either side of the as well just as helpers/stabilizers. (Which I did on this stump, just couldn’t see it in the thumbnail). I personally like to stack into the stump but I’ve seen guys stack into the tree, personal preference I think.
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southsoundtree said:
Good info. I didn't know anyone still made jacks. Thanks.


I don't think Silvey makes jacks anymore...Double-ram, at least. Not that many BIG Trees around, like days gone by.

I'd kinda like a nice jack. Way better than beating heavy trees into submission... Younger man's shoulders, and all.
Just so little need. But, when you need something, you need something.
Click to expand...
Yep. Silvey's are no longer in production. I believe you can still get parts though?
 
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Funny, I did a wildlife-habitat high-stump, triple-stack yesterday, just from the ground. Poops and laughs.

Homeowners put in new electrical service to the cabin a year or two ago, but didn't take down a lot of dead trees, however it was a root-pulled, live willow that took the line down, and tipped the mid-span pole with meter. Pulled tight against the power mast on the house, but didn't damage the house. Roots took a bit to rip out, using the 12' lever of the trunk, so it might have been a slow-speed root failure.



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I did get good fiber pull from an overly thick hinge and hard pull on this other one. Tapered was not intended, particularly, as much as being sure I didn't lose the dead tree to the power line, and I was in an awkward cutting position, as I cut my seat too wide, and ended up with a down-sloping board. They are so useful, just don't cut your seats too much.

As you can see, I did have to clean up that far side, as I missed my Humboldt by a kerf-width.
Best time, I'll mark my board's seat before cutting.

This being dead, and relatively small diameter, I didn't want to cut deeper for a tighter seat.
18" at the hinge.
 
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southsoundtree said:
Funny, I did a wildlife-habitat high-stump, triple-stack yesterday, just from the ground. Poops and laughs.

Homeowners put in new electrical service to the cabin a year or two ago, but didn't take down a lot of dead trees, however it was a root-pulled, live willow that took the line down, and tipped the mid-span pole with meter. Pulled tight against the power mast on the house, but didn't damage the house. Roots took a bit to rip out, using the 12' lever of the trunk, so it might have been a slow-speed root failure.



View attachment 55728View attachment 55729View attachment 55730View attachment 55731

I did get good fiber pull from an overly thick hinge and hard pull on this other one. Tapered was not intended, particularly, as much as being sure I didn't lose the dead tree to the power line, and I was in an awkward cutting position, as I cut my seat too wide, and ended up with a down-sloping board. They are so useful, just don't cut your seats too much.
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I haven’t had a good opportunity to stack like that. You know the experimental tree in a feild where if it goes wrong there are no targets. Is the standard a few stacked bore cuts just bigger than the wedges? How hard is it to retrieve the wedges after?

Any pointers?

Also where do you get the spring board tips?
 
Use a side wedge as back up.

It works.

Less likely than stacked wedges to spit out.
Single taper, not double taper wedge, ime.
Good leading edges. Tap all three, set all three, drive all three.



The springboard shoe was a present, with a hardware store 2x6 that is okay enough.

I was wondering about getting a batch made, and selling, but I'm Overloaded, as is.

I can email you good pics. Simple fabrication.

I was going to ask @rico to start a spring board thread, presuming he has more and different experience than I do, and at least, somehow I think the local knowledge there has infiltrated into him, osmotically.
 
When your wedges are still sunk in the bore cuts, back chain of the mushrooming.

Just wide enough for the wedge, and a little more, will keep them from twisting. You have a chainsaw. Getting wedges out is not a problem.

Launching your wedges with the tree is a good way to weaken or break them. Always easy to retrieve from the stump.

I bore-cut through the hinge 'guts' to the back side, then bore below by 1/2"+, rear toward front.
 
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