I used to spray inside the mechanisms with wd 40. It helped. Then I tried carb choke cleaner on one when the wd wasn't working. It was like new. I thought the spring was bad but the carb cleaner de gunked it. I'm sure others have tried this already but figured I'd share it anyway.
sticking carabiner locks
- Thread starter williamd
- Start date
- Location
- Longmont, CO
I've got one crazy biner that isn't closing. Thanks for the tip William D. BTW. Welcome to the Buzz!
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
Get all the petroleum off by boiling them. Then use graphite powder lube to keep'em working.
Might try that, my locking ladder snap started sticking on me a couple days ago. I use it for a saw clip. Thanks.
- Location
- BC, Canada
Blinky,
Graphite lube not recommended for Aluminium. Promotes corrosion. Banned for use on aircraft ally parts for that reason.
Especially bad where aluminium parts are in contact with ferrous metals, in our case the gate hinge pin.
Heads Up,
Northwind
Graphite lube not recommended for Aluminium. Promotes corrosion. Banned for use on aircraft ally parts for that reason.
Especially bad where aluminium parts are in contact with ferrous metals, in our case the gate hinge pin.
Heads Up,
Northwind
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Northwind,
Any substitute? Thanks for that heads-up.
Any substitute? Thanks for that heads-up.
- Location
- AZ
[ QUOTE ]
Get all the petroleum off by boiling them.
[/ QUOTE ]
Mmmmm, boiled carabiners, yum
I wash mine in some hot water. Knock some of the grit and dirt out of all the gaps, let dry, and then add a dash of White Lightning, the lubricant not the moonshine...
Get all the petroleum off by boiling them.
[/ QUOTE ]
Mmmmm, boiled carabiners, yum
I wash mine in some hot water. Knock some of the grit and dirt out of all the gaps, let dry, and then add a dash of White Lightning, the lubricant not the moonshine...
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
Used graphite long before alloy biners came to the industry. Never used any other stuff on my alloy and I never had one biner corrode away from me.
WD40 isn't a lubricant, It's stuff to get things running.
Apply an 'overdose' WD40 on the stuck part, get it running and blow it out with air. Repeat (soak and blow) this one more time and than powder it with an 'overdose' of graphite and keep using the graphite frequently.
Happy biners, happy climber.
WD40 isn't a lubricant, It's stuff to get things running.
Apply an 'overdose' WD40 on the stuck part, get it running and blow it out with air. Repeat (soak and blow) this one more time and than powder it with an 'overdose' of graphite and keep using the graphite frequently.
Happy biners, happy climber.
- Location
- BC, Canada
Sure, White Lithium grease, Molybdenum Sulphide, Liquid Silicone and Dry Teflon.
I used to repair high speed printers and map plotters, machines with a concoction of aluminium, magnesium and polypropolene parts secured with ferrous pins, machine screws and springs, all in an environment clogged with celulose dust from the rapid movement of paper.
General principle: White Lithium on exposed pivots to exclude dust, Molybdenum Sulphide spray (Dry Moly) on enclosed assemblies, Teflon on nylon or polyprop.
So for my purposes now on an aluminium 'biner: White Lithium on the gate pivot, Dry Moly down the twist gate, Teflon for a Petzl ball-locker.
Liquid silicone is hard to get. The rest of this stuff is available, but expensive in small quantities.
WD-40 is really all you need, you just have to keep at it, and I would not use it on a Petzl ball-locker without expecting degradation of the plastic.
And Brake cleaner? Not without rubber gloves.
Northwind
I used to repair high speed printers and map plotters, machines with a concoction of aluminium, magnesium and polypropolene parts secured with ferrous pins, machine screws and springs, all in an environment clogged with celulose dust from the rapid movement of paper.
General principle: White Lithium on exposed pivots to exclude dust, Molybdenum Sulphide spray (Dry Moly) on enclosed assemblies, Teflon on nylon or polyprop.
So for my purposes now on an aluminium 'biner: White Lithium on the gate pivot, Dry Moly down the twist gate, Teflon for a Petzl ball-locker.
Liquid silicone is hard to get. The rest of this stuff is available, but expensive in small quantities.
WD-40 is really all you need, you just have to keep at it, and I would not use it on a Petzl ball-locker without expecting degradation of the plastic.
And Brake cleaner? Not without rubber gloves.
Northwind
- Location
- BC, Canada
I'm telling you, graphite and aluminium don't get along.
I'm no metalurgist or engineer, but I've read specs from those who are. Google it.
Northwind
I'm no metalurgist or engineer, but I've read specs from those who are. Google it.
Northwind
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Northwind,
Do you know a product name for liquid Teflon? I had some that was bottled by Dupont but it went into drift at a climbing competition and I can't find it anymore.
Do you know a product name for liquid Teflon? I had some that was bottled by Dupont but it went into drift at a climbing competition and I can't find it anymore.
These were 3 10 plus year old steel carabiners. Double action locks that you just twist and open. The spring in one appeared to be shot because when you twisted it, it moved back slowly. The other 2 were a little better but still didn't snap back like they should have. I sprayed and sprayed with a steady jet of wd 40 right into the mechanism trying to blow it out but to no avail. Then I tried the carb choke cleaner in the same manner and the mechanisms on all 3 returned to normal. They got their snap back. I'm pretty sure carb choke cleaner is safe on aluminum because carb floats are aluminum I think. Carbs also have rubber gaskets. I 'm not sure how it would affect plastic. All I know is that it did the trick on the steel carabiners. Brake cleaner or starting fluid may also work. But yes, wear rubber gloves. That stuff also evaporates and won't create a sticking surface to help form new gunk like grease and spray lubricants can. Whatever works for you.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
Northwind, your point is well taken, makes sense and I believe you without looking it up because I've heard it before. Has to do with galvanic action between dis-similar metals. I pretty sure that anodizing mitigates galvanic corrosion though.
I think the rate of corrosion on un-anodized material may be very low because I still use aluminum biners for rock climbing that I bought in 1979... everybody laughs cuz they look clunky but the actions are still good. Granted, they aren't lockers, just plain old Chouinard Standard D's.
I'll think twice every time I go to lube a biner now though. I've got a syringe of white silicone I may try next time... what about dry silicone spray?
I think the rate of corrosion on un-anodized material may be very low because I still use aluminum biners for rock climbing that I bought in 1979... everybody laughs cuz they look clunky but the actions are still good. Granted, they aren't lockers, just plain old Chouinard Standard D's.
I'll think twice every time I go to lube a biner now though. I've got a syringe of white silicone I may try next time... what about dry silicone spray?
- Location
- Holland, Ohio
You can use some stuff called Gun Scrubber to clean all biners including ball locking ones. This stuff is rated safe for plastics and polymers. I use spray silicone to lube with and have never had a problem.
