Sterling HTP

Not at all, the outlet just has good prices on static. Was also considering KM-MAX and Yale Bandit. Leaning towards bandig because I have a couple 10' pieces and I like how it handles.
 
Well, I got some unexpected birthday cash so I pulled the trigger on 75' of KM-MAX with a sewn eye from Treestuff. It was the most subdued color of static rope I could find for a good price.

I appreciate all the feedback!
 
boone0 said:
Well, I got some unexpected birthday cash so I pulled the trigger on 75' of KM-MAX with a sewn eye from Treestuff. It was the most subdued color of static rope I could find for a good price.

I appreciate all the feedback!
Click to expand...


Id like to here how your rads climbing is going. I find that the best for me. Im 6'3" 235. Its hard for me to climb strait up a rope. And ddrt is just so slow and rads seems to be more efficient. I got a 110' piece of 11mm htp from sterlings prime shorts for about 56 bucks witch is crazy. but not a fan of it for rads. It was jerky on decent i figure because of my wieght. I have about 10 other aborist ropes. But its funny i really like my old 150' of ne fly with rads and my grigri. I also made my own bdb and it works well with rads also. I have blaze and bandit. But both were to skinny alittle jumpy.
 
Same here. I use both DRT and SRT, but mainly DRT. I've got all the tools for RADS but feel it's like using a 3 to 1 to climb up, which in turn is slower and can be more work in my opinion. Would love to hear some feedback and I will try and get out and give it a shot as well.


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I will definitely post up when everything arrives.

Keep in mind i am a novice tree climber. That bring said, I was able to test the setup using a GriGri, prussic, carabiner, and a 10' Hank of bandit in my basement, just to see what the mechanics were like.

Even without a mechanical ascender, it seemed very easy.
 
boone0 said:
...so I pulled the trigger on 75' of KM-MAX with a sewn eye from Treestuff...
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I'm using for SRT access into the trees. I use it with a RopeWrench/Distel hitch, SAKA knee ascender, foot ascender and Superscender (better grip for the hands).
I use a canopy anchor that I can install and retreive from the ground.

Does the job.
 
Got everything in and had a couple hours after work today to get in a tree. Climed two separate trees with the TIP at 20 and 35 feet. Got a pretty good feel for it! I like the KM-MAX. It feels more abrasion resistant than bandit, but time will tell.

Thank you all for the help!
 
boone0 said:
Hey everyone, first post. Looking to get some rope for a RADS SRT setup. Can anyone give some feedback on the sterling HTP 11mm rope? I have done a lot of searching and found people saying that it is very durable but sometimes doesn't hold knots as well as a more supple line. Not a lot of other info.

I was looking at the sterling outlet, which has pretty good prices on the HTP prime shorts.

The use will be SRT straight up for a hunting setup, so I only need 30-80 feet depending on if the situation dictates a cinched or base anchor tie in point.

Thanks!
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If you are only going to be doing SRT ascents that are 30-80 feet you really don't need a static line like HTP or Escalator. You would probably be better off getting 200' of double braid the you can splice. Something like Tachyon, Velocity, Tendril, etc. would work just fine and is much easier to tie knots in. Plus the more flexible rope can double as a safety lanyard once you get up into your tree stand. And I am curious why you want to use the RADS method of SRT? It is the single most inefficient method of SRT ever created. I teach it in my classes just so people can see how much work it is compared to almost every other SRT method out there. I suggest you try one of the rope-walker techniques like the micro tree frog. It packs into a tiny little bag that you can easily carry in your day pack along with your rope.
 
ARLO said:
If you are only going to be doing SRT ascents that are 30-80 feet you really don't need a static line like HTP or Escalator. You would probably be better off getting 200' of double braid the you can splice. Something like Tachyon, Velocity, Tendril, etc. would work just fine and is much easier to tie knots in. Plus the more flexible rope can double as a safety lanyard once you get up into your tree stand. And I am curious why you want to use the RADS method of SRT? It is the single most inefficient method of SRT ever created. I teach it in my classes just so people can see how much work it is compared to almost every other SRT method out there. I suggest you try one of the rope-walker techniques like the micro tree frog. It packs into a tiny little bag that you can easily carry in your day pack along with your rope.
Click to expand...


I must be doing something wrong then because i find rads to be just fine. What do you suggest for someone that is 6'3" and 240 i dont consider my self fat, heavy i guess whatever that means. Ive worked labor intensive jobs my whole life so im not out of shape. Ive tried a few rope walkers i find it however to seem harder than rads
 
For ascent? Foot ascender, haas, and whatever multiscender devise you choose( rope wrench, rope runner, hitch hiker etc.) . Then a way to advance the system. Either lanyard over shoulder, neck tether, or some type of chest harness
 
Jem4417 said:
For ascent? Foot ascender, haas, and whatever multiscender devise you choose( rope wrench, rope runner, hitch hiker etc.) . Then a way to advance the system. Either lanyard over shoulder, neck tether, or some type of chest harness
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Still don't see how this is less gear than a GriGri 2, a hand ascender, and some tethers and biners that you would need in any system.
 
All you have to hang on your saddle when your done is the haas. The foot ascender and chest harness can stay put the whole climb. Plus the on off time may be quicker.
 
boone0 said:
Like this?

http://www.wesspur.com/climbing-kits/microfrog-rope-climbing-system.html

And then I still have to buy an ascender..

I bought a grigri2 and ascension, both on 20% discount. I am only ascending 30 feet max for hunting, so having a device that handles progress capture and rappel is weight and money saving.

The micro frog system has 3 ascenders and still needs a separate device to rappel. I'm not disagreeing with you, but what am I missing?
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If all you are doing is short ascents and don't care about the extra work then the rads will work fine. I just don't care for it because it is so much work compared to any of the rope walker systems, and when I climb I am usually doing lots of climbs in a day. Since you already have the gear for the rads I can see why you would want to avoid having to fork out more bucks for more gear. Good luck with the hunt!
 
CBM said:
I must be doing something wrong then because i find rads to be just fine. What do you suggest for someone that is 6'3" and 240 i dont consider my self fat, heavy i guess whatever that means. Ive worked labor intensive jobs my whole life so im not out of shape. Ive tried a few rope walkers i find it however to seem harder than rads
Click to expand...
If you have found that rope walkers are harder than rads, then I think you have not been properly instructed with rope walkers. With a rope walker system and a good chest roller a fit climber can literally run up the rope with almost no effort from your arms. All the work is in the legs and your arms are just along for the ride. RADs can't do that. But it will get you there eventually.
 
I've used 10mm and 11mm htp for a good amount of time .. both great access lines use them with the petzl rig as a basal tie off. For strictly srt access only though I can't give feedback on work positioning.
...Not a better line out there. Super static, great in the rain/snow.
 
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