Nice, this is why I prefer to stand up picks. Predictable, very little chance of the butt coming at the climber. I prefer a notch and the back cut at a steep angle to create a step. Important to have 2 rigging points to prevent the pick from rolling, which can break the hinge. I know guys who just peel the cuts which works, but only on small diameter IMO.
Standing Pieces Up
- Thread starter chris_girard
- Start date
I think a lot depends on the LZ and all the potential restrictions (utility lines, trees, landscape lighting, Etc...). Sometimes standing up a tip tie allows a larger piece to make it into the LZ but then you have to lay it down. It it’s a balanced horizontal pick and you can fit it, it’s already positioned to lay down.
Sometimes if I’m near the end of my chart and don’t have enough boom left to lift, I’ll belay the butt into the hook off a tag line. That’s a sure fire way to control both ends and prevent a shock load.
The Crane Manuals I’ve read all describe how to lift something from horizontal to vertical (like standing up a prefab wall), so it’s a valid technique. In tree work, if done incorrectly, it’s also a great way for something to go very wrong.
Most of the time, like others said here, I like to use as few slings as possible to pick structure “as it grew”. That’s a great way of saying it.
Sometimes if I’m near the end of my chart and don’t have enough boom left to lift, I’ll belay the butt into the hook off a tag line. That’s a sure fire way to control both ends and prevent a shock load.
The Crane Manuals I’ve read all describe how to lift something from horizontal to vertical (like standing up a prefab wall), so it’s a valid technique. In tree work, if done incorrectly, it’s also a great way for something to go very wrong.
Most of the time, like others said here, I like to use as few slings as possible to pick structure “as it grew”. That’s a great way of saying it.
