Spurless work positioning

S

Scheffa

Participating member
Location
Australia
Hey all.
Been climbing for a bit over 18 months, almost all of our work is removals and powerlines clearing where we are required by the power company to wear spurs.
Have been trying a bit of spurless climbing for pruning and just cannot seem to get in a comfortable position for cutting.

I know some people are going to hate me for spur climbing however that is what the company I work for do, I am trying to learn better techniques.

On spurs im super comfortable in the tree, have no problem removing 150ft plus eucalyptus, take my spurs of and I'm useless.

Just looking for pointers or videos to watch ect
 
More than one lanyard helps me out most times - I'll sometimes have 2X 30 foot'ers with me (with cambium savers if it's a pruning job - also see Richard Mumford's videos for a removable/ midline attachable leather/ velcro job). Choking a lanyard helps to secure sometimes too. Flat sling loops of various lengths can be used as a footsteps/ footloops here 'n there as needed on vertical stems or on branches both. I've also seen guys make a "stirrup" with a piece of hardwood drilled both ends to make a webbing spreader - a hard footloop unlike commercial plastic or fabric ones sold for jugging rope.

See:


at about 2:14

The DMM Captain Throwing Hook helps me scoot out branches - and there's a variety of throw hooks for tree to tree commuting.
Maybe have a look at the book "On Rope" - cavers seem to come up with all sorts of ingenious ideas for standing around in awkward places!
Climb safe and don't cut with a chainsaw until you you feel rock solid no matter what some "Master of the Universe" on the ground may be telling you to get you to hurry it up . . . it's your butt after all and it just takes once!
 
Hey guys I am pretty new here my name is Mark. My first tree worker/beginner climbing job was with a premiere Tree Service here in Southern Louisiana. Work positioning without the use of spikes is more technical challenging by far. Using two climb lines or an extra long lanyard is a must for me when making proper Pruning cuts. Physically it is more demanding on every part of your body. I agree with all the suggestions above. The way I learned was with a handsaw. Small trees, large hedges, deadwood removal, crown thinning, etc.., The final cut when hanging from high TIP can be quite tricky and dangerous without a properly placed lanyard, sling, extra climb line.


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You can also get to where you want to be to make your cut, choke your lanyard and then hang there with your feet floating. They don't have to be on the tree. If it feels really awkward or you aren't wire in the right position, wrap your leg/knee sound the limb, no need to worry about poking yourself with a spike doing it that way
 
I think a big key element to doing spurless work is to get a real good high central Tie-in.
You are going to be sitting in the saddle, like a swing on the swing set. With your weight seated firmly in the saddle, you will develop a second nature sense of balance and support. It is a little different than the way it feels to stand in the hooks and lean back against your flip line. Once you get used to trusting that climbline you can scamper around using your hands and feet for a balance and grip. Rope angles are very important. You are going to be able to move easiest with your rope at a 45° angle or less. Once you get to angles greater than 45°, it is going to feel as though your climb line is fighting you.
Also, you are always going to be tethered to that central tie in point. Depending on how much you have to move around in the tree you may have to climb back to center or reroute your climb line to eliminate deflection from branches and limbs.
Regarding videos to watch, any of the jamboree type events will have spurless climbing.
 
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