Show us your harness

Thanks guys I appreciate your thoughts on that. What I'm doing is putting my hitch just about arms length away for a short ascend in the tree. Then back to a short bridge to work and real short for spar work or HAAS ascend. I found a thread on this very topic last December. Some guys are running up to a 6' bridge. For me,that is too long. I'm climbing ddrt with a hitch climber.
 
I just have a average length bridge, ok maybe a little longer than average. And shorten it for ascent and occasionally on a spar if I think of it. Haven't tried the limbwalk, think I would find it cumbersome. Will have to attempt.
 
Joseph Hodgin said:
Thanks guys I appreciate your thoughts on that. What I'm doing is putting my hitch just about arms length away for a short ascend in the tree. Then back to a short bridge to work and real short for spar work or HAAS ascend. I found a thread on this very topic last December. Some guys are running up to a 6' bridge. For me,that is too long. I'm climbing ddrt with a hitch climber.
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Ahh, that makes sense. I'm all SRT except when I'm DSRT... [emoji14]

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I've always had the short bridge. When I was climbing dDrt I used the anchor bridge system by rich hattier and ABR. It was a work saver for sure. Totally a game changer for that kind of climbing.
 
Joseph Hodgin said:
View attachment 34147 FRESH...
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Nice. :bailando:

And to answer your earlier question...same as the others have said, I have only ever used it on the standard length bridge. I just use it to choke up tight when I need it. But since I have never tried a super long bridge, I can't say that it wouldn't be useful. I could see if you are using a hitchclimber DdRT it could be nice to get beneath your system to get a good pull while ascending etc., but I am almost always SRT.

What length bridge are you thinking Joseph?
 
Crimsonking said:
I use the normal TM replacement and just make a slip knot with a micro biner lock off to shorten it. A lot less money.
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I did that for a while, but I ended up not adjusting it as often as I should. After a bit it put some pretty wicked kinks in my bridge from being in a tight knot for too long. If you can make it happen I would highly recommend the Roll N Lock. The only thing it doesn't do is adjust under load, but it is much faster and easier than the knot and biner method. Yes more expensive:envidioso, but worth it in my opinion.
 
John_KAYS said:
Nice. :bailando:

And to answer your earlier question...same as the others have said, I have only ever used it on the standard length bridge. I just use it to choke up tight when I need it. But since I have never tried a super long bridge, I can't say that it wouldn't be useful. I could see if you are using a hitchclimber DdRT it could be nice to get beneath your system to get a good pull while ascending etc., but I am almost always SRT.

What length bridge are you thinking Joseph?
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Thanks John, I used your paracord idea,very clever. I used a piece of paracord that comes when you purchase a Tree Motion. Only small issue is I have not found the rite piece to put in between Roll N Lock and lower D/bridge paw. If I don't find anything by the weekend, I'll find something at Lowes. Now I know this sounds like a country mile to the SRT guys but the 36" bridge is doing it for me as of rite now. The only time it will be all the way out would be on ascent.The rest of the time my bridge will be short wile the tail is tucked. Also I will like to add, the tail wile tucked is shorter then the handsaw in scabbard hanging from my saddle.
Thank you again.
 
What are you guys doing with your bridge tail while it's set full short? Clip it to the side? Does it interfere with anything? Get caught in a leg loop?
 
Tuebor said:
What are you guys doing with your bridge tail while it's set full short? Clip it to the side? Does it interfere with anything? Get caught in a leg loop?
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Today was the first day with the adjustable bridge. I kept it tucked in a DMM Aero Bent biner on TM leg strap. Im happy with it so far. As for the question asking if it is interfering or getting caught on anything. For some reason my shit gets caught on everything. Especially when servicing a tree that has not been pruned in a wile. My shit gets caught on everything. I was in a large Oak today that has not been pruned, what looked like forever, and again my shit was caught on everything! Not all the time but more then I would have liked.
 
Those clips are amazing. I lucked out, and got one black and one yellow, to match my sequoia in the 3-pack...colors vary, but I highly recommend. 11.7 mm rope actually slides through it well, so you don't necessarily have to detach the rope from the clip to use it.
 
My load out for today. Homemade 15' positioning lanyard on left. Basic 2-1 lanyard on right. Ditty bag of slings and carabiners.. Old dirty leather gloves and my 201t. Handsaw lives on my leg.

Load out today was for small-medium dismantles in backyard, no rigging and no TIP so no climbing line. Used tbe 15 foot lanyard as primary life support line a couple times, worked better than the 2-1 ! Saddle hidden under there is the Edge by sherrilltree.
image.webp
 
Greg_L said:
What do you think of that saw bar on the 201? Do they make 14"-ers?
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Hard to say really, it serves its purpose perfectly well. The weight difference is noticeable when holding just the two bars in hand, but when it's on the saw it's impossible to tell really. It does look pretty cool though! I'm sure that my muscles notice the difference after a week of production climbing work though.
 
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