Show off them splices

flipline i did for a friend at work, came out well
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my tie in
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hand ascended to foot loop for another work friend
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re-whipped my main line, experimenting on location of the whip
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re-spliced a work friends climbing line after he cut the splice off with a 201t, despite being a used rope, managed to get it done
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Pretty cool man.. pretty cool.. Nice work.

So in regards to the placement of the whipping, if u are not having it broken to see if there's s strength difference, what is it are you trying to figure out by experiment? To see if it's more flexible or something having it closer to throat?

That used Calamine looks like it was a bear to bury.. whenever my splices take a real pronounced hex shape i know my index fingers will be shedding layers the next week..lol. that's a poison ivy line by Sherrill, correct? Surley you weren't getting the whipping next to the throat in that one.. at least not without broken needels! Lol!
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
Pretty cool man.. pretty cool.. Nice work.

So in regards to the placement of the whipping, if u are not having it broken to see if there's s strength difference, what is it are you trying to figure out by experiment? To see if it's more flexible or something having it closer to throat?

That used Calamine looks like it was a bear to bury.. whenever my splices take a real pronounced hex shape i know my index fingers will be shedding layers the next week..lol. that's a poison ivy line by Sherrill, correct? Surley you weren't getting the whipping next to the throat in that one.. at least not without broken needels! Lol!
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Mainly seeing where I can get a good whip in that'll capture the most strands that won't bend every sail needle in my draw, a friend at work has shown me some stuff discussing the necessity of whipping double braid splices. Seems like loose splices like Yale in house splices would be more inclined to needing whipping but tight heavily packed splices it's almost unnecessary due to it constantly being highly compressed even unloaded. I still whip mine but I was mainly seeing where I could capture the most fibres and minimize the abrasion damage to the whip over time.

It was a bit more troublesome getting the final bury to seat in but leaning my 85kg frame into my harness with it clipped on eventually got it home, just took it easy and stretched the splice after every couple mm of progress made. I hadn't seen the whole whipping at the eye thing when I did this, it was relatively easy to whip, about 3" from the eye.
 
Samsquanch said:
Mainly seeing where I can get a good whip in that'll capture the most strands that won't bend every sail needle in my draw, a friend at work has shown me some stuff discussing the necessity of whipping double braid splices. Seems like loose splices like Yale in house splices would be more inclined to needing whipping but tight heavily packed splices it's almost unnecessary due to it constantly being highly compressed even unloaded. I still whip mine but I was mainly seeing where I could capture the most fibres and minimize the abrasion damage to the whip over time.

It was a bit more troublesome getting the final bury to seat in but leaning my 85kg frame into my harness with it clipped on eventually got it home, just took it easy and stretched the splice after every couple mm of progress made. I hadn't seen the whole whipping at the eye thing when I did this, it was relatively easy to whip, about 3" from the eye.
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Hmm.. so Yales inhouse splices are loose? Do you think they are following their own instructions (like the ones you or me can download) & varying away from them? Or do those instructions result in a very loose/flexible splice to begin with? As you probably know already, when the splice isn't as jam packed it is way easier to get that final bury done.. which i would assume, would be more profitable if your trying to turn out a whole bunch. I've never tried the Yale DB instruction as i can't see them for shit & i found them harder to follow at the time i read them.

This is of interest to me,
I've been experimenting as of latley trying to get my spliced hitch cords a bit more flexible. I was hesitant at first as i didn't think i had purchased any Vendor/Manufacturer "professional" made splices & had nothing to go off of for comparisons.. but after realizing i had one on my Hook kit, i looked at it & noticed how much more flexible it was than the ones i was performing to manufacturer instruction spec... like way way more flexible.. like to the point where you could include the enlarged bury area in the last portion of friction hitches & not have issue doing so..

So it makes me wonder.. is loose really that bad if things are lock stitched or whiplocked? Im deff going to send these experiments in & have them tested for proof & peace of mind.
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
Hmm.. so Yales inhouse splices are loose? Do you think they are following their own instructions (like the ones you or me can download) & varying away from them? Or do those instructions result in a very loose/flexible splice to begin with? As you probably know already, when the splice isn't as jam packed it is way easier to get that final bury done.. which i would assume, would be more profitable if your trying to turn out a whole bunch. I've never tried the Yale DB instruction as i can't see them for shit & i found them harder to follow at the time i read them.

This is of interest to me,
I've been experimenting as of latley trying to get my spliced hitch cords a bit more flexible. I was hesitant at first as i didn't think i had purchased any Vendor/Manufacturer "professional" made splices & had nothing to go off of for comparisons.. but after realizing i had one on my Hook kit, i looked at it & noticed how much more flexible it was than the ones i was performing to manufacturer instruction spec... like way way more flexible.. like to the point where you could include the enlarged bury area in the last portion of friction hitches & not have issue doing so..

So it makes me wonder.. is loose really that bad if things are lock stitched or whiplocked? Im deff going to send these experiments in & have them tested for proof & peace of mind.
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Well on my main line I had done some abrasion damage on the factory spliced end early on learning so I spliced the other end and climb off that now, I decided to cut off the Yale splice to milk my rope this weekend and cut it open to see what they're doing.
Can't remember what their instructions say but the core bury was 4 inches long from the eye, poorly tapered. The jacket bury was 8ish inches long, had 10 strands taken out which started roughly 3 strands from the crossover done in pairs spaced two strands apart down the jacket taper.

It all resulted in very little cordage inside the splice. Seemed very high production, almost guarantees a good final bury with much less effort. It too was wayyy more flexible and even soft compared to the splices I do. It must be rated to tension loads, a company like Yale would suffer a decent dent to their rep if their spilces were half ass and failing. But, opening it up and seeing the...I don't know, somewhat lazyness? Just makes me want to do all of my own splices from now on, that way I know what's inside each one. Complete placebo most likely but a nice tight splice with a good amount of well tapered cordage in it just makes me feel more confident hanging from it.
 
Intentional mis matched eye sizes. Was playing around with a class 2 splice. Calls for the sheath to be seized or whipped on the exterior after the eye the entire length of the exposed sheeth. I chose to burry in this case on a class 2 rope.
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Nice looking splices, skygear! Did you bury the cover as the final step, or did it go in the cover, before being buried in the cover?
 
@Brocky The cover went inside of the core then hurried similar to the Class I with the lengths of the Class II to maintain the strength. Another variation I like to do into pull one standoff the CORE and one strand of the COVER and use them to Whip the ropes in certain areas and in turnout hides the fact that I actually WHIPPED anything!.

Samson Class II https://www.samsonrope.com/docs/def...blbrd_c2_eye_splice_web.pdf?sfvrsn=2baf982e_2

Samson Class I https://www.samsonrope.com/docs/def...blbrd_c1_eye_splice_web.pdf?sfvrsn=3976dd6f_2

Premium Ropes did it in 7.3.2



I was playing with Samson's directions and watching some of the other recommended methods. I splice lots for friends and friends of friends. I'm asked frequently if I do "Traditional Recommended" splices. And I do. But I like to show physical examples of what I do and also show actual videos of either ME or someone that is trusted in the industry(s) of what to expect if questioned further about it. I have lottos friends that sail and I do a lot of halyard splicing and other stuff. Only now have I started to document it and show off some of the work I do.
 
@Brocky Here is video with Sailrite showing off the method. (I'm referencing the pulling of the single core strand and single sheath strand for whipping later. Neat trick)

 
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If anyone owns one of these DMM blocks, I recommend you immediately get rid of that red string on there. I thought it was secured enough with the knot they sent, on my second use, clipped to my harness, the knot came undone thus dropping the block 40 ft to the ground.

Now I have a dyneema infinite loop that I spliced on there.
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skygear said:
@Brocky Here is video with Sailrite showing off the method.

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Interesting videos.. I FFW through most of it as it a pretty slow going.. but what i did see, kinda stuck out like a sore thumb.. In this video he's saying to milk the slack out of the eye in the opposite direction I've always heard to go.. & when he jams that awl through the eye after doing so & yanks, I'm pretty sure all that slack just got stretched out & ended up back where it was to begin.. Not only that but everything is stitched in place at the x-over. That eye slack needs to go the other way, back into throat & into the rope somehow.. & even then it doesn't "always" work if things are unaligned/unequalized to begin with.. I always milk from X-over to throat right from the start of burying, that way if you have to, your not trying to do it all at the last minute. Idk.. Idk.. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that awl thing he did... he has to have gotten it from somewhere & i just can't see how it does anything but distort the core underneath when it's all stitched 2 inches up from there.. I'll have to see what it does, if anything in person. Personally, it just looked like the slack went right back to the other side.

Also, he would have had alot easier time running it home had he not kept inducing twists into the line every time he needed to loosen the throat.. In order words, every time he thought he was loosening things up, he was in reality adding another twist & making it that much harder to pull cover towards him, binding everything up.. In general, when done correctly, those poly & nylon boat lines bury themselves.. at least the ones I've done have.

Then of course he wasn't aware he couldn't yank on his connection that hard without losing it suggests he doesn't do this very often.. IDK.. it seemed like amateur hour & struck me as odd because Sailrite isn't some new company with a bunch of noobs.. There a legit portion of the sailing industry.
 
skygear said:
Intentional mis matched eye sizes. Was playing around with a class 2 splice. Calls for the sheath to be seized or whipped on the exterior after the eye the entire length of the exposed sheeth. I chose to burry in this case on a class 2 rope.
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Is that the Vapor Lock biner?
Do you have any common biners that i might have, so you could put the Vaporlock next them for size comparison? Here, I'll list out a few that i have incase you do to..
Common Petzls, big to small.
Dmm ovals
Camp Compact oval
Few small Metolious's
Notch
Other BD Magnetron's.. just not the Vaporlock.

Whenever you got the time, no rush..
 
@Jimmycrackcorn

Here is what I have in one gear bag. Are any of these what you're asking to be compared to? That's all Petzl, and Black Diamond with some Marine hardware mixed in. The Magnetron stuff are all full sized carabiners.
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Honestly, they are a pain in the ass with gloves on since March. (Recovering from a motorcycle accident and forcing my hands to work properly)

Years ago I walked into an rei and needed a couple carabiners. They were in the middle of a 'reset' and all that was on the floor were these so I grabbed them and was sticker shocked as I looked over my receipt the next day.
 
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@Jimmycrackcorn

In reference to the video. I agree, looked like amateur hour and the video was shot in 2013. Again the only thing I really used from the video, was it reference on pulling the string to whip the internal splice and the eye itself with matching color. I learned that trick many years before that but that was the only video I'd seen it in. Hence the reason why I referenced it.


The only thing to take from his video above from sailrite is the slick whipping method of extracting one core string and one sheath string for whipping later.
 
His methods seem heavily influenced by Brion Toss’s way of splicing. The 24 diameters fid length and using the cover and core strands are taken out of Brion’s video of instructions, originally done back in the 80s.
 
@skygear
So is that three Vaporlocks or Two + One RockLock? Might just be the way they are sitting on each other, but that one further to the left looks longer.

So they're all full sized.. Dang.. I swear i saw that Vaporlock next to a Pear shaped Petzl Attatche & it was significantly smaller..(not on your desk, online somewhere).
Who knows.. anything's possible.. biners are deff one of those things that are hard to judge on paper when looking for a certain size..

@Brocky
Yes, that's what i thought as well. Where can someone find all his work online.. I've looked before & it was hard to find. There was a site, but it was hard to navigate & i couldn't find anything posted up. Specifically any video content..
 
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