Show off them splices

So, here's this morning's Tachyon splice - using not the "traditional" Class 1 method but the recipe outlined in Joe Stockton's Teufelberger Tachyon YouTube video. It is way easier than using the normal Class 1 method, even having a D Splicer soft fid, but Joe is right - you really have to watch the core strand orientations as you're doing the crossover. Other than that pretty slick. And the bury all the way to a tight eye is way easier this way.
So here we have yet another new 200' sacrifice for my Silky this summer!
Cheers

Cross post to another Splice Rack thread on Class 1 splices, tapering and tachyon
 

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So, here's this morning's Tachyon splice - using not the "traditional" Class 1 method but the recipe outlined in Joe Stockton's Teufelberger Tachyon YouTube video. It is way easier than using the normal Class 1 method, even having a D Splicer soft fid, but Joe is right - you really have to watch the core strand orientations as you're doing the crossover. Other than that pretty slick. And the bury all the way to a tight eye is way easier this way.
So here we have yet another new 200' sacrifice for my Silky this summer!
Cheers

Cross post to another Splice Rack thread on Class 1 splices, tapering and tachyon
I think there is a magnetic attraction between saws and new splices.
 
My climbing buddy just bought a scrap of Drenaline and I decided to do a splice for him. I don't consider myself an expert with the spLIFE splice, but after a couple of tries it came out fine. I seem to recall that Brocky and others may have experimented quite a bit with this splice, so my question is how does it compare strength-wise with a sewn eye? I realize that strength has a lot to do with the quality of the splice, but I am just trying to get a general idea of test results for splices that were done correctly.
 

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Just like a new handsaw blade wants to draw blood! A ceremonial Tapping Of the splice with The silky should slake its rope hunger
I will try that with my next splice. I recently nicked my 200' Vega climbing rope about 2' up the rope from the splice. So now I have a 198' long piece of used Vega that needs a new splice. I had a hard enough time doing Vega splices on new rope, and I suspect it will be a killer on used rope.
 
Only if it is too big to go through the mechanical devices.
I gave up on getting this splice to go thru my Zigzag regardless of how it is lock-stitched So that is not an issue for me. I just install the Zigzag on my rope from the unspliced end and leave it on the rope most of the time. Kind of a pain sometimes but I have gotten used to putting up with it.
 
Looks good!
Who makes those bronze colored rings?

Is that chafe sleeve stuff that’s usually used to protect air and hydraulic lines? Probably tougher than my tubular nylon webbing. It usually doesn’t take long for the ends of mine to start looking a little fluffy.
 
Looks good!
Who makes those bronze colored rings?

Is that chafe sleeve stuff that’s usually used to protect air and hydraulic lines? Probably tougher than my tubular nylon webbing. It usually doesn’t take long for the ends of mine to start looking a little fluffy.
PenSafe rings from.arbsession. they are every bit the quality of the DMM rings. Yeah that's just hydraulic hose sleeve. It works very well. It bunches up nicely and provides enough room to work with. The smallest one was a bear with the hose though. I won't be doing that so small again haha
 
8mm DMM thimble with a 5/16" dyneema loop. This is meant to be either a rigging point, a redirect or if I push the loop thru the thimble a foothold for a vertical stem with no branches. I did a double locking brummel and then a 1.5 fid length bury with the last 4" tapered. Finished with a whiplock. What would you all do differently or add to it? I was in such a hurry I forgot my heat shrink and it could probably use some chafe sleeve.
 

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