Show off them splices

eyehearttrees

Active Member
@Samsquanch I love it!!! How long does that take you??

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Some of (all-of, I think :p ) my newest stuff, am VERY eager to get splicing with Mercury and would take any recommendations am almost at the point of saying "At X I'll extract 2-3 kern/core strands, and pull a few cover/mantle strands, to get this bury to happen" but am outta my league I just know regular double-braid and hollow's, this 11mm tight-ish kernmantle is kicking my butt I can't figure it out, will climb w/ it even if I have to use knots LOL but wish I could splice my Mercury!!

Ice Tail, got 10' of it (uncertain just what was needed for an eye&eye) for just $12.90 (shipped) from Gap Arbor, used 77" to make the 29.75" eye&eye and had enough left-over to make a double-fisherman's knotted loop for prussiks that's got a trapped o-ring and is plenty long for 3 wraps on any climb line in prussik-configuration!
Almost there:
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Aaand done! Can't believe they sell these @$28+ and don't even use eyelets like wtf they're $0.50 apiece (retail!)
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I used Samson's instructions, they have splicing tutorials for everything lol they're awesome there's a page for just eye&eye's using Tenex, Tenex TEC or Ice Tail :D Am planning to use Ice Tail long-term for sure, although I want more time 'feeling the difference' between the true 8mm Ice Tail I get from a fisherman's-loop versus spliced, fatty Ice Tail like that ^ because I won't waste my time splicing if it's not beneficial, am sure it's a stronger hitch but c'mon it's Ice Tail lol and I use 2 hitches anyway (may change soon as I begin trying "Bingham's" double-climb-line technique, will be carrying a whole 2nd setup my next job and seeing how it feels well my next job on a spreading Oak or Camphor) For comparison here's 9mm Epicord at bottom, true 8mm Ice Tail in middle, then bloated/spliced Ice Tail at top, all on 11mm Mercury (best climb-line evaaaaaa!!)
19700114_083423.jpg



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Had got this for a sling I decided against, such a great deal $47 shipped (they do 2 for $75!) it's "#3" from Elevation Canada, same dimensions as an XL x-ring except it's 10% thicker :D Anyway I had a ~20' length of 3/4 polydyne sitting around, and a 10' piece of 5/8 TEC, I couldn't find instructions on how to make the 3' rigging-ring loop (fixed eye in a 3' loop, 'double tenex' whole way) so used my 3/4 polydyne, I marked 3 pairs of crowns from the opening of the throat to watch suck-up during 1st use (always do this before my lock-stitches, oh on that ^ Ice Tail the lock-stitching is a dull brown it may be hard to see :p ) It's currently a ~20' tail, am going to shorten it as the entire reason I'd had it shiny-new was that we never go to use a 20' tail sling when more-convenient ones are at-hand, so will make this somewhere between ~6' (w/ a dead-eye!) to maybe 12-14' longest (will do a Teufelberger-type skinny-tail if I go that route, right now it has a proper Samson backsplice at the end....pretty&professional, sure, but totally not of-use on a rigging sling lol :p
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That ^ 3/4 polydyne wasn't getting much use @20' tail which prevented my fave hardware, the Bloc, from getting its fair usage so I got it some 3/4 TEC and made it a 9' whoopie sling, in hindsight I think an Ultrasling of silly dimensions (like 8-9' made with ~10" pockets) may've been a better option, will make one of them soon! Very happy w/ this one though, cordage is from Gap where I can get small orders w/o paying s&h, instructions for the whoopie were from Samson's tutorials of course ;D
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^Oh I used kern string from Mercury as my lock-stitching ROFL, I'd 'deflated' a 10' length of Mercury to use as a twisted saw-strop/lanyard so had some extra kern ropes :p

Am sure I'm missing something....made a good deal of Mercury loops, going to splice the end of my 5/8 polydyne (go-to bull rope) so I can do 'knotless rigging' using Mercury loops (or stronger, think I'll get some TEC to make a few HD slings for bigger logs!) using carabiners, so much better on the rope and more strength from the rope (I currently do normal butt-hitching ie a half-hitch then knot although I try to use a large o-ring for the half-hitch when I remember to bring it up!)
 

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eyehearttrees

Active Member
Damn was hoping to find some newness :( I know you guys *have* been splicing let's see 'em!!

So I got more Ice Tail as it's by far the best-for-price (and one of the best in-general for *static* strength, spliceability is quite easy it's not 3/4 TEC but still) and'll use it til I find something comparably strong (tensile) w/ more dynamic strength (1.05% on Ice Tail as it as the stiffest cordage I own and does limit how I'd use it)

At any rate this is another Ice Tail eye&eye, done to the letter of Samson's instructions for Ice Tail excepting that you can't brummel the same way when you're using thimbles in the eyes so I just did a single brummel and buried the tails (did far more cross-over than usual though and will lock-stitch soon / before actual use!) Should mention I'd ordered 3/8" thimbles, Gap sent these heavy-duty 1/2"'s which I can't say I'm upset about I mean it's just more bend-radius and all (for the Ice Tail I mean, which is the weak-link in the setup this is being used in) This is long enough to take 4 wraps on doubled-over Mercury (11mm cordage) but it has the tension point on the brummel which I'm betting weakens it so I deal w/ the slack of 3 wraps and that dangle, will be making another and hopefully get a tight 3-wrap IE just-enough that the thimbles and the single brummel exit the hitch because these are for a pair of 'squeezers' (TreeSqueeze configuration sling) I've made / am making/improving so any extra length is bad / makes the sling's minimum-choke-diameter become larger and I want this to be able to choke anything I'd be comfortable anchoring on!
19700113_090303.jpg
(will have to snap pics of my Squeezers as the TreeSqueeze is a very useful configuration that I'm genuinely surprised hasn't caught-on much quicker I mean doubling-over some line and throwing a prussik on it is in-reach of any climber, you can get a pair of o-rings for <$20....I've made regular & large sized ones w/ Mercury & Ice Tail but going to post those in a thread on this subject as I imagine I'm not the only one who'd benefit from the simple configuration & is able to set it up immediately & hadn't really though to do so ---- also boggles the mind how Buck can charge $170 when the hitch on theirs has a generic ring instead of a ridgeline-type thimble hell those DMM branded ones would be very nice on the prussik and the prussik-to-ring interface is the weak-point of the configuration so this does matter, it's also why the giant 1/2" thimbles in my big-Squeezer's hitch are even better IE they make a more favorable bend-radius right at the expected-fail-spot ie the hardware//prussik intefacing)

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Kinda ugly/embarassing but hoping for feedback on what I should've done for brummeling when I have a thimble in the eye, I have pre-made slings that've obviously overcome this but I can't see how you can weave the two legs back&forth on both eyes once one of them has giant hardware that won't fit-through the strands of the other tail.. anyway I'm basically "downgrading by 1/3rd" due to the odd brummelling, I did this in "eye&eye" style IE the tails go several inches past-center & overlap each other (and I also lock-stitched that area, all lock-stitching w/ saved strands from Polydyne 5/8" cover braiding(green tracer-strands)
19700102_215936.jpg

[ ^plz ignore the #'s I had drawn that up before even splicing it am now calling it 2/3rd strength if I were pressed to "push it" though honestly it's just one of a few beefier slings to complement the speedline/loop kit, to handle heavier stuff while staying knotless.....when I get the chance again...spring's coming-on fast in FL though :D ]
 

eyehearttrees

Active Member
I'm sure it's obvious but those ^ slings are costing me next-to-nothing to make, really makes me feel ripped-off in hindsight having "gotten a deal" on my 3-ring x-sling at $135ish, in hindsight I'd spend $75 on ebay for a pair of #3 Elevation Canada's (10% thicker than x's Beast size) rings and 20' of 3/4 TEC for $30 on Gap (free s&h) for $105 I'd have any form of double-header I want (the large rings are....odd, IMO. Don't like them alongside the XL, would rather the double-Lrg side of my 5' sling just be a single XL ring the Lrg rings won't take spliced 5/8 and that's all I like using in fact the only reason I'm still wrapping logs w/ my 5/8 is because of how often I use the 1 sling I have that can't take spliced 5/8 line, those Lrg rings are for light rigging or good climb anchors IMO, have never even seen a medium ring :p
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
When tying the Icetail with large thimbles, if four wraps is too short and three is too long, try four wraps on bottom and three on the top.

Locked brummels can be made on both ends of the one thimble sling by making the eye only end first, which will pass through the rope when making the second lock brummel around the thimble.

Not sure what’s going on with your brummels, they look loose and bunchy. Either they’re too close together, or not being pulled tight enough is my guess. A regular brummel usually is passed through the rope three times before the bury, NER calls it a Lock Stitch Splice.
 
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eyehearttrees

Active Member
When tying the Icetail with large thimbles, if four wraps is too short and three is too long, try four wraps on bottom and three on the top.
Hah! Had thought same myself it's so great to hear it echo'd :D Although I always pictured doing more wraps on top (since that's the leg seeing more force, right? And more wraps, for a given force, means less jamming ie you're not going to jam a 10-wrap prussik if ascending on it, heck I use 2 regular prussiks for ascent and never get jams / have no interest in changing to mechanical prussiks/using a rope-wrench/etc because they hold me w/o jamming :D )

Love those big thimbles, they'd sent heavy-duty 1/2"'s when I'd ordered regular 3/8"'s but now I'm happy for it because in a failure-event it's not going to be a mid-line break it's going to be hardware pulling-through the eye right? I've always figured using such hardware is great for bend radius to boost strength (bend-radius of the spliced Ice Tail of course, not whatever goes-through the thimbles)

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Newest splices...stole an XL ring from my 3-ringer (its Lrg rings prevented me from going knotless) and spliced it to free-end of my 11', single-XL sling, and spliced the tail of my 5/8 bull rope, so fully knotless now :D Both shown in this pic:
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[heh, off to the side you can see the 3-ringer I stole the XL from, now it's a 5' eye-sling since I was able to remove the XL w/o damaging it, no idea what I'd use it for since "Large" x-rings won't pass splices but hey maybe a climbing anchor or something, we'll see :) ]


I know "ring&ring" is a generic configuration but, upon making this, I now think "why on earth didn't I make this first?!?", it can obviuosly just be 'wrapped' extra and used same way my old 5' ring&rings, also it can be folded and that bend used as a bight, tossed-around the stem / drop the XL's through and it's a functional equivalent to a 5.5' loop-sling or 5.5' sling-with-eye, BUT my favorite usage is something so damn obvious-- Simply using the 11' length of this sling allows VERY simple setting of "wide anchors" with a single sling, ie in a regular broadleaf canopy 11' is typically enough you can "spread" the rings and effectively have a setup comparable to using a pair of spaced-out, single-XL slings but only need this 1 sling for it :D

Just gotta order some more TEC to finish my "log-slings" (more slings like that orange one in post #2170) and will be set!
 

eyehearttrees

Active Member
Am very proud to present the "unspliceable Mercury", strongest 7/16 cord I know of (class1, obvi not beating dyneema on tensile but @3.5% the dynamic-ABS is just outstanding/as good as I know of)

Spliced by closely following spLIFE's Drenaline (written+youtube) instructions, 1st two by adapting Drena's instructions and #3 onward "my recipes", goal being to get break-tests on "my recipe" versus an spLIFE Drena recipe, if mine wins I'll do a proper write-up of the splice of course :)
19700103_224512.jpg

"Messy" splice, most fragile extractions ever pulling kerns through tapered cover-tails:
19700103_193425.jpg

Thanks a lot to Teufelberger's video's splicer, had never seen this trick before I'm always just finding a fid or wire-fid type of tool in the house and relying on tape or 'hooking cover braids' to mate rope-to-fid, this lil "trick" of simply folding the rope on the fid before it enters the cover is outstanding such a great trick/tech to have learned :D
19700103_202625.jpg
 

therianclimber

Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot to Teufelberger's video's splicer, had never seen this trick before I'm always just finding a fid or wire-fid type of tool in the house and relying on tape or 'hooking cover braids' to mate rope-to-fid, this lil "trick" of simply folding the rope on the fid before it enters the cover is outstanding such a great trick/tech to have learned :D
View attachment 67034
Can you clarify how this is done? Do you center the wire fid a couple of inches down the end of the cover and fold strands through the wire fid from each side?

I'm going to splice some Altas rope and it seems to have a tight cover. Looking for tips to insert the core into a tight jacket.
 

Rob Stafari

Active Member
Am very proud to present the "unspliceable Mercury", strongest 7/16 cord I know of (class1, obvi not beating dyneema on tensile but @3.5% the dynamic-ABS is just outstanding/as good as I know of)

Spliced by closely following spLIFE's Drenaline (written+youtube) instructions, 1st two by adapting Drena's instructions and #3 onward "my recipes", goal being to get break-tests on "my recipe" versus an spLIFE Drena recipe, if mine wins I'll do a proper write-up of the splice of course :)
View attachment 67032

"Messy" splice, most fragile extractions ever pulling kerns through tapered cover-tails:
View attachment 67033

Thanks a lot to Teufelberger's video's splicer, had never seen this trick before I'm always just finding a fid or wire-fid type of tool in the house and relying on tape or 'hooking cover braids' to mate rope-to-fid, this lil "trick" of simply folding the rope on the fid before it enters the cover is outstanding such a great trick/tech to have learned :D
View attachment 67034
CMC G11 is rated at 40 KN (8,992 LBF) and has 6.0% elongation at 10%

VS

Mercury which is rated at 38 KN (8600 LBF) and has 3.7% elongation at 10%

Edit: Both nylon core poly sheath kernmantle construction

So there's another good and strong rope you can play with and see if it is spliceable. It comes from the tech rope rescue world and is new to the market so I doubt wether anyone has even thought about splicing it yet. Cheers (y)
 

Avesharp1

New Member
I've got a question for you guys, has anyone tried splicing Yale R.I.N.G.? I know it's double braid like kernmaster, but that inner sheath might cause problems. Was just curious if it was even possible
 

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