Sharpening at 10 degree angle to bar?

chipper1 said:
..., hence why the chain started to cut better for @Dan Cobb when he started filing this way on a chain designed to be filed that way.
Click to expand...
Minor point, but I detected that the chain (Rapid Super?) required a 10 degree tilt off perpendicular to the bar when I started sharpening. Everything else I sharpen is zero deg/perpendicular, so I assumed. Pays to check the OEM recommendations.
 
No, it was the reply about file percent above top plate, not the degree of tilt. Beranek references 10%-20% for one, most say 20-25% that I’ve seen. I just use the recommended file for the chain and it’s a non issue; some switch file size half way through the life of the cutter and then I guess the % would matter.
 
Dan, RS is rapid super in Stihl chain. Eyeball your chain and see if you can spot the non 90 top plate bend angle
 
Serf Life said:
No, it was the reply about file percent above top plate, not the degree of tilt. Beranek references 10%-20% for one, most say 20-25% that I’ve seen. I just use the recommended file for the chain and it’s a non issue; some switch file size half way through the life of the cutter and then I guess the % would matter.
Click to expand...
Okay, just wanted to be sure, no reason to argue on something we both agree on.
Now back to arguing :lol:.
I've seen many chains that were sharpened improperly because the file was held too low even though it was the proper size.
Many times when working in frozen wood I'll run a larger size file than called for by the spes on full chisel chain, if not the working corner can just roll over on hardwoods with a higher water content, usually just better to grab a semi chisel for that application. If someone used the 10% above the top plate on the same wood, every working corner on the chain would be rolled over on full chisel. That being said I typically drop the file a bit on 3/8 semi chisel to help it self feed better, you gain a good bit of speed, but it's not quite as smooth and doesn't bore/plunge cut as well.
 
Dan Cobb said:
Minor point, but I detected that the chain (Rapid Super?) required a 10 degree tilt off perpendicular to the bar when I started sharpening. Everything else I sharpen is zero deg/perpendicular, so I assumed. Pays to check the OEM recommendations.
Click to expand...
It's a minor point, but it obviously made a huge difference.
Experience is one way to learn, but a while back I decided I wanted to learn all I could about sharpening, it was an expensive yr(another way to learn, spend money lol). I bought a few different grinders both round and square, and even bought a raker grinder, I also bought a ton of files. Then I did many chain test on different saws in various woods and timed cuts. I learned a lot, but since then the chains have come a long way, Oregon EXL and the new husky x-cut chains have caught and surpassed the stihl RS chain in quality and the x-cut chains are way smoother and faster right out of the box. The x-cut chains are nearly as smooth as my work angles on a square chain and just as fast, but I set them up so I don't have to file them as often as round, double beveled files aren't cheap.
Thanks for sharing, I've read many of your post on the site, many times learning something new.
 
evo said:
I have no clue what a usg is, I see it on the chart that I found off their website but no clue what USG stands for. I can only guess it means US Gauge but only a guess
Click to expand...
As Reach said it's one of Stihl's chain grinders(I don't speak German lol).
I have one here, it's one of the items I bought in my researching of sharpening. First thing I did to it was to add a foot pedal to it to control the vise, the way it operates I was not expecting( I got some experience lol). Instead of clamping when you apply pressure to the foot pedal, it actually releases, but it works quite well. I also have the hydraulic clamp tecomec super jolly set up with a CBN wheel, it's my favorite grinder to use. I'd like to modify the clamp to run off a foot pedal, that would save time when you are doing your initial setup. As it is you put the chain on the grinder/in the vise, then pull the head down to check where the wheel is in relation to the cutter, then you have to raise it back up to adjust it, then bring the head back down, rinse and repeat as needed.
The stihl USG is a bit different than most grinders as the head moves the opposite way to any other round grinder I've used, square grinders have a few variations in the way they work and the chain moves to the grinding wheel, sure is lots to learn about chains/grinders.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom