Just bought a bench grinder, got it mounted to my work bench. Wanted to know if anyone could give tips on the angles and degrees for setting it up?
Setting Up an Oregon Bench Grinder
- Thread starter Fatcord
- Start date
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Didn't you get an instruction booklet with the grinder?
I'll bet that you could go to the Oregon website and find the instructions.
I'll bet that you could go to the Oregon website and find the instructions.
Did i do wrong by asking? Yes there is a booklet but it is not to the point. It is not that clear. I am getting something wrong. I figured it wood be pretty simple. already screwed up two chains, well they were trash anyway.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
I had a Foley bench grinder that I got rid of when Pferd came out with their hand filing jigs. It took me quite a while to figure out the Foley. Foley Mfg. was located nearby and I spent time in their demo shop learning how to set it up...even then, it wasn't easy.
Without some more info from you it would be hard to help out.
How did you screw up the chains?
Can you take some pics of the chains? You'd have to use a macro in order to have a clear picture.
Without some more info from you it would be hard to help out.
How did you screw up the chains?
Can you take some pics of the chains? You'd have to use a macro in order to have a clear picture.
How I messed them is prolly how most men mess things up....we dont need instuctions!!!! Lol No I guess I didnt have one of the angles right. The shop tech at the saw shop was going to help me out but that is how the last guy got fired, the shop owner saw him at a customers house helping the homeowner with his chainsaw. I know there is a insructional on youtube, just cant find it.
have you had any rain? have the fires been put out?
- Location
- Lambertville, NJ
What model Oregon Bench grinder is it? What type and manufacturer of chain are you trying to sharpen?
Stihl rs chain 3/8 .05 grinder is a 510a
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
have you had any rain? have the fires been put out?
[/ QUOTE ]
The last rain in Austin was a month ago...12 minutes=quarter inch! Before that, 3" in April...none forecast until November, if we're lucky.
That Bastrop fire is 50% controlled now...meaning it could go wild again with a shift of the winds.
Large trees are dieing out in the naturalized areas. When this happens it means that the tissues of the trees are dry, to say nothing of all the underbrush ready to go up in flames.
have you had any rain? have the fires been put out?
[/ QUOTE ]
The last rain in Austin was a month ago...12 minutes=quarter inch! Before that, 3" in April...none forecast until November, if we're lucky.
That Bastrop fire is 50% controlled now...meaning it could go wild again with a shift of the winds.
Large trees are dieing out in the naturalized areas. When this happens it means that the tissues of the trees are dry, to say nothing of all the underbrush ready to go up in flames.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Did you buy the sharpener from the saw shop? If so, then let the owner know that you expect help in getting it setup. You could bring yours into the shop and clamp it to a table/bench. No different than expecting that a saw is tuned when it goes out the door.
Setting the best radius on the stones was the biggest challenge.
A tip that I picked up from a discussion about sharpening tools for woodworking applies to any sharpening stone. Take a candle stub, scented if you have one, and bring the sharpener up to speed. Run the candle into the stone so that the wax melts into the porous voids of the stone. The wax will melt away keeping the stone cooler. The was also acts in a tiny way as a support to the coarse abrasive material in the stone. After waxing the stones the wheel dressing stayed true a LOT longer.
Setting the best radius on the stones was the biggest challenge.
A tip that I picked up from a discussion about sharpening tools for woodworking applies to any sharpening stone. Take a candle stub, scented if you have one, and bring the sharpener up to speed. Run the candle into the stone so that the wax melts into the porous voids of the stone. The wax will melt away keeping the stone cooler. The was also acts in a tiny way as a support to the coarse abrasive material in the stone. After waxing the stones the wheel dressing stayed true a LOT longer.
- Location
- Lambertville, NJ
For Stihl 3/8 RS chain you should be using the 3/16 grinding wheel with the grinding head set at 60 degrees and the chain vise set at 30 degrees. You can use a steeper angle on the grinding head for a more aggressive cutter angle but the chain will dull faster that way. There should be a little wheel dressing gauge to check if you have the proper radius on the grinding wheel.
I like to dress the wheel lightly and fairly often to keep a fresh grinding surface so it doesn't burn the cutter as easily. I've also found it helps eliminate cutter burning if you grind the cutter in 4 or 5 quick touches instead of one long sweep all the may down. Degreasing the chain to remove the dirt and bar oil is also a big help. They clog up the pores of the grinding wheel so it can't remove material efficiently.
If you plan on hand filing in the field between grindings I recommend keeping the gullets cleaned out with grinder or you will have to file them out by hand before you can work the actual cutting edge with the hand file since the grinding wheel and the file have a different radius.
Hope this helps a little and I would take the time to look at the instructions. They will make the process much easier. There should also be a chart in there with grinding angles for chains, but they only list Oregon chains from what I remember.
I like to dress the wheel lightly and fairly often to keep a fresh grinding surface so it doesn't burn the cutter as easily. I've also found it helps eliminate cutter burning if you grind the cutter in 4 or 5 quick touches instead of one long sweep all the may down. Degreasing the chain to remove the dirt and bar oil is also a big help. They clog up the pores of the grinding wheel so it can't remove material efficiently.
If you plan on hand filing in the field between grindings I recommend keeping the gullets cleaned out with grinder or you will have to file them out by hand before you can work the actual cutting edge with the hand file since the grinding wheel and the file have a different radius.
Hope this helps a little and I would take the time to look at the instructions. They will make the process much easier. There should also be a chart in there with grinding angles for chains, but they only list Oregon chains from what I remember.
Yes the instructions wood help but it is advice from people here that reaaly helps. Much thanks Beaver!!! Tom are going to the waco conference?
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Yes, I'll be in Waco.
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