its a ash tree about half blew out on mothers day weekend. the tree hangs over a cemetery with graves for the 1700s. we would be setting the crane on the cemetery road. The crane guy has done a lot of tree jobs and the climber has done about 30. I was looking for tips and safety stuff that i may be forgetting because we have 2 ground guys that have never been on a crane job before.
saftey tips for crane work
- Thread starter fordman
- Start date
SJ_Treeguy
New member
- Location
- Deep Southern NJ
Let the groundies talk with the crane operator so he can explain his way of working,they can ask questions he may have some good tips. Clean and clear landing zone helps when you are landing a pick,there is nothing to trip on or step over.Check and double check safety all the way!!Good Luck !
- Location
- Phoenix Arizona
[ QUOTE ]
Use 2 way helmet mounted radios
[/ QUOTE ]
This is really good advice.
Hand signals are ok but you cant see eachother and it takes 2 or 3 people to chain the signals to the operator, then there is too much lag time. I can only imagine how nice it must be to just talk.
Use 2 way helmet mounted radios
[/ QUOTE ]
This is really good advice.
Hand signals are ok but you cant see eachother and it takes 2 or 3 people to chain the signals to the operator, then there is too much lag time. I can only imagine how nice it must be to just talk.
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
Straight cuts, or a little nip if it starts to pinch.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
What has been said about pinching the saw, keep that in mind. If you are just using one sling, girth-hitched, make sure that you are sawing from that same side.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
- Location
- Phoenix Arizona
[ QUOTE ]
What has been said about pinching the saw, keep that in mind. If you are just using one sling, girth-hitched, make sure that you are sawing from that same side.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
[/ QUOTE ]
My name is Jesse Huffman and Im a saw pincher.
Good stuff guys. Keep it comming
What has been said about pinching the saw, keep that in mind. If you are just using one sling, girth-hitched, make sure that you are sawing from that same side.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
[/ QUOTE ]
My name is Jesse Huffman and Im a saw pincher.
Good stuff guys. Keep it comming
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
[ QUOTE ]
What has been said about pinching the saw, keep that in mind. If you are just using one sling, girth-hitched, make sure that you are sawing from that same side.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
[/ QUOTE ]
Might want to be careful with this ""a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side." There are several other factors that come into play here. Sometimes I put the girth on the heavy side of the piece (on the rare occation that I am only using one sling), to try and counteract the weight. If you dont quite get it right then you might wind up with a pinched saw anyway, if the piece does tip slightly. If you are picking wood then the statement should be true. I like the "Nip" at the end of the cut as well, in all situations. It allows the piece to react, move, settle, and find its "happy place" before it is released and the crane takes it. Also it give the (good) operator a chance to adjust thier position and tension to counteract the (slow and controled) movement. There is nothing more frustrated than a pinched saw, except maybe fighting to get one out. Be safe out there.
What has been said about pinching the saw, keep that in mind. If you are just using one sling, girth-hitched, make sure that you are sawing from that same side.
I think Mark was saying "a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side. You can make a little model with throw line and a nalgene bottle and see as you are lifting with the throwline, the girthed side starts picking up first. If you go the wrong way, you get pinched.
That sucks to get pinched. Not much the crane operator can do, and not only are you now wasting money, it doesn't feel great to have a partially-loosed thousand(s) pound weight dangling in front of you, with a $$$$ saw as part of the equation.
[/ QUOTE ]
Might want to be careful with this ""a little nip" on the side opposite the girth hitch, then just start cutting through on the hitched side." There are several other factors that come into play here. Sometimes I put the girth on the heavy side of the piece (on the rare occation that I am only using one sling), to try and counteract the weight. If you dont quite get it right then you might wind up with a pinched saw anyway, if the piece does tip slightly. If you are picking wood then the statement should be true. I like the "Nip" at the end of the cut as well, in all situations. It allows the piece to react, move, settle, and find its "happy place" before it is released and the crane takes it. Also it give the (good) operator a chance to adjust thier position and tension to counteract the (slow and controled) movement. There is nothing more frustrated than a pinched saw, except maybe fighting to get one out. Be safe out there.
For the ground guys be careful of the headache ball! Not every crane guy lifts it away from you while your bent over unchoking one. For climbing it was weird the first time you undercut a limb and have the crane stand it straight up and out haha. I pinched a few saws getting use to it. Lately Ive been doing atleast one crane job a week with different companies and Ive been using a green log chart on the inside of my helment and telling the crane guy over the radio my guess on the weight and we go from there...its a great system so far. Also always use two straps not matter the size. Some cranes have to guess the weight or look at there chart for what they can lift, and other cranes have a digital read out. Just my two cents.
classictruckman
Participating member
- Location
- Ottawa Valley, Ontario, Canada
[ QUOTE ]
Some cranes have to guess the weight or look at there chart for what they can lift, and other cranes have a digital read out. Just my two cents.
[/ QUOTE ]
All cranes have a Load Chart and some have a digital read out, there should be no guessing of what they can lift.
Some cranes have to guess the weight or look at there chart for what they can lift, and other cranes have a digital read out. Just my two cents.
[/ QUOTE ]
All cranes have a Load Chart and some have a digital read out, there should be no guessing of what they can lift.
Green log chart!!! comes in handy too! Also remember that there are seasonal differences - a poplar with leaves can be top heavy - a tree with the sap down will be lighter. So always do a test lift. Estimate what you have and see if it comes close.
[ QUOTE ]
I can't wait till I have some extra time at night to start responding on the buzz again.
Bunch of BS going around.
Where is Hollenreich anyway?
busy working like me I guess...
[/ QUOTE ].
Bs? How so?
And yes your correct they aren't guessing on the weight they can lift...I meant that they have to look at there chart which I'm guessing isn't as accurate as a digital one...I'm guessing, I'm by no means a crane operator! Lol
I can't wait till I have some extra time at night to start responding on the buzz again.
Bunch of BS going around.
Where is Hollenreich anyway?
busy working like me I guess...
[/ QUOTE ].
Bs? How so?
And yes your correct they aren't guessing on the weight they can lift...I meant that they have to look at there chart which I'm guessing isn't as accurate as a digital one...I'm guessing, I'm by no means a crane operator! Lol
- Location
- NJ
[ QUOTE ]
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
With Mark on this one all the way. Less you have no other choose but to stand a limb up, all clean cuts. Useful tip, carry a small wedge, drill a small hole and add an arms length of cord, it'll help with some of the saws pinch you get sometimes.
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
With Mark on this one all the way. Less you have no other choose but to stand a limb up, all clean cuts. Useful tip, carry a small wedge, drill a small hole and add an arms length of cord, it'll help with some of the saws pinch you get sometimes.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
With Mark on this one all the way. Less you have no other choose but to stand a limb up, all clean cuts. Useful tip, carry a small wedge, drill a small hole and add an arms length of cord, it'll help with some of the saws pinch you get sometimes.
[/ QUOTE ]
Are you suggesting that its almost always better to multi-sling a piece rather than stand it up, or are you suggesting that standing up a piece is the only time to use a hinge?
[ QUOTE ]
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
With Mark on this one all the way. Less you have no other choose but to stand a limb up, all clean cuts. Useful tip, carry a small wedge, drill a small hole and add an arms length of cord, it'll help with some of the saws pinch you get sometimes.
[/ QUOTE ]
Are you suggesting that its almost always better to multi-sling a piece rather than stand it up, or are you suggesting that standing up a piece is the only time to use a hinge?
- Location
- NJ
Only time I'd hinge cut a crane pick is to stand it up. I've had more than a few companies that that is the way they roll. They like to tip strap and stand each limb. This calls for a wierd notch and back cut. It's little more time consuming but is nice, as you never shock load the crane or have some one pulling too hard on a piece as to have it pop off. Best way is to make a notch and back cut is so that it will stand up on a flat surface. The hinge wood is use to keep the butt in place. As we all know limbs don't always grow straight as a pole, and can have a arch or wierd twist to it. this keeps the butt from flying away form you till it's stood stright up. Then the hinge wood can be cut free under total control.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Thanks for clarifying. That's what I thought you meant.
Bearing in mind the curvature of the log, as Ed mentions, a perpendicular cut to the long axis of the limb, and a horizontal cut, should set up for the face to close when the tip-strapped piece is lifted to vertical.
Bearing in mind the curvature of the log, as Ed mentions, a perpendicular cut to the long axis of the limb, and a horizontal cut, should set up for the face to close when the tip-strapped piece is lifted to vertical.
- Location
- Phoenix Arizona
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
Dammit! I knew I should of edditted those pics out.
Keep talking guys.
Im picking up what your laying down.
[ QUOTE ]
Not peel Jamin. I see a lot of newer climbers attempt to face cut and hinge pieces like they do in rigging. That is something I think needs to be avoided in 99% of the cuts.
[/ QUOTE ]
Dammit! I knew I should of edditted those pics out.
Keep talking guys.
Im picking up what your laying down.
- Location
- Bluffton, SC
I went to a class with Rip Tompkins on crane removals and he taught us to make a V cut. Start on one side cut down at an angle then go to the other side and do the same. This way if your saw were to get stuck the operator can adjust the load alittle into the other cut and you can get your saw out. Ive noticed this works well and you dont have to worry about anything kicking up in your face. it gives you time to get out of the way and the pick to be made. Also If you dont feel comfterble with it figure out a diffrent way or make a smalled pick. Also if you have to balance a load use multiple slings. I have it only once due to poor judgement on the crane operators part, But we slung a long horizontal peice and the sling was set by another climber and the operator but I made the cut and the Butt swung up towrds my face I got out of the way but the but went right between my lanyard. The crane operator then started to pick up. I got out of there just in time. Our radios were not working and the operator could not see me due to a line of trees. It all happened so fast the the ground guys couldnt relay in back fast enuff but we walked away safe and learned a good leason. Do what you feel is right and make good communication.
Good Luck and Be safe. Post some pics if you can when your done.
Good Luck and Be safe. Post some pics if you can when your done.
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