Rope Wrench Feedback?

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Yesterday was much better. Pantin keeps kicking the velocity out but I can deal with that. I found running the hitch up the line does much better for me than the flip line over the shoulder. Great ascent tool!!!!!!

I have one issue. I replaced the top bolt with the pin. I just don't get enough friction from the wrench. I have even had to stand back into the pantin to break the grab on the hitch. Going up was great but when I sit in the hitch and work, I need to use mu gorilla grip to get the hitch to break. I Climb with velocity and bail out with a VT. I've even taken a wrap off the VT to loosen it up. DRT is fast with this set up but coming down is as actually more work than going up. I've got the friction adjusted to the max with the wrench. Whats my problem??????

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you may want to try a beefier hitch cord. I found bailout to bite the rope much to hard in SRT. I run hand spliced ice which makes it almost a 10mm hitch cord and it works great with my velocity in SRT settings. (dont get grizzly spliced ice you will have the same issue because it is smaller dia.)
 

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the first break of the hitch can be rough if thew wrench has not been completely engaged. before sitting back in your harness, nudge the wrench up and release the hitch a little bit before sitting into your hitch. This becomes habit quickly. If you sit directly on the hitch without the wrench engaged or partially engaged, breaking that hitch will be hard.
 
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the first break of the hitch can be rough if thew wrench has not been completely engaged. before sitting back in your harness, nudge the wrench up and release the hitch a little bit before sitting into your hitch. This becomes habit quickly. If you sit directly on the hitch without the wrench engaged or partially engaged, breaking that hitch will be hard.

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which is what you want when doing a long , open ascent, in the event your pantin ever pops off ;) which happened to me.

like Kevin has stated many times, use a trusted, rated hitch/cordage that will grab right away.
 
I have a little different set up. My pulley is just a prussic minding micro. I have it connected to a brass snap, not on the caribiner. The brass snap is on the caribiner. I am set up to use the anchor bridge system. This allows me to marry the system for drt ascent if you are familiar with the set up. I was also thinking about adding a bushing to the pin I put in to get a little more friction out of the wrench. I hear what you are saying about the bail out. I want to stay with a single set up I can use for DRT and SRT. I'd rather not have to carry 2 different hitch chords. If I can get 1 set up and just add the wrench it would be better. If not I will try the ICE.

Thanks guys.
 
After watching Kevin's AR at Kentucky my ascent problems are solved. I'm now using a separate, trunk tied ascent line. I push a simple Eye2eye prussic up with a hand ascender. My SRT line is attached to the prussic with a biner.
Basically it's a secret weapon configuration for SRT. Maybe that's old news but it solved my primary problem of ascending with the preconfigured RW on my ascent line.
 
I added a sleeve bearing to my pin, ordered one of these and cut it in half, deburred the edges.

5/16 Nom. I.D., 1/2 Nom. O.D., 1 1/2 Lg., Bunting Bearings, Cast Bronze Sleeve Bearings

http://www.amazon.com/Nom-Bunting-Bearin...4243&sr=1-3

cheap, though the 5/16 ID on these ones is a little big, so there is some play in there. There is probably a better option than these, but this is what I got. The pin doesn't spin, and I can't tell yet how much the bearing spins (hard to see with the bronze up above my head!!). Not sure it matters. I was thinking of filling in the space between the bearing and pin with a thin strip of rubber or leather.

I am still also intrigued by the idea of drilling out the holes in the RW and getting a larger pin. That would bring the system back to having only one extra piece to drop in the leaves ;-).
I, too like the larger pin, it brings back some of the adjustability for the tachyon I am using half of the time.
pete
 
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After watching Kevin's AR at Kentucky my ascent problems are solved. I'm now using a separate, trunk tied ascent line. I push a simple Eye2eye prussic up with a hand ascender. My SRT line is attached to the prussic with a biner.
Basically it's a secret weapon configuration for SRT. Maybe that's old news but it solved my primary problem of ascending with the preconfigured RW on my ascent line.

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Chip, why not ascend with the pantin/hitch-climber/tending with lanyard or harness?

or were you doing that?

or is this for working DRT off the single rope.
 
arborcare, just mess around with your hitch/rope combo in SRT until you get it figured out. I've found hitch cords on small diameter lines like Velocity tend to bite harder, especially in SRT, so thats just something you'll have to play around with.

Cary, what Chip is describing is a trick I've also picked up at the KY comp. Like Chip said, all it is is an i2i prussic, tied onto a doubled ascent rope, with a carabiner connecting the i2i to a separate SRT line which has your rope wrench set up on it. Basically a secret weapon set up, just for SRT. People mainly like it because it allows you to footlock a doubled rope and work SRT. Other ways to accomplish the same task, but this is another tool in the tool box. Personally I'll probably only use this trick for climbing comps. Still prefer to wrench of my access line. But others are different.
 
I would love to see a pic or video of that.
I’m liking the mid line attachment for the wrench, but wish it fit snug once you plugged in the pin, it slides back and forth a little. No big deal it performs awesome on my snake bite, just a mental thing for me. So far I’m also liking my setup with snake bite best, over my tachyon rope. I still have to do some more test runs on the tachyon though.
Loving this thing every day I use it.
 
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arborcare, just mess around with your hitch/rope combo in SRT until you get it figured out. I've found hitch cords on small diameter lines like Velocity tend to bite harder, especially in SRT, so thats just something you'll have to play around with.

Cary, what Chip is describing is a trick I've also picked up at the KY comp. Like Chip said, all it is is an i2i prussic, tied onto a doubled ascent rope, with a carabiner connecting the i2i to a separate SRT line which has your rope wrench set up on it. Basically a secret weapon set up, just for SRT. People mainly like it because it allows you to footlock a doubled rope and work SRT. Other ways to accomplish the same task, but this is another tool in the tool box. Personally I'll probably only use this trick for climbing comps. Still prefer to wrench of my access line. But others are different.

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I dont get it. How do you retrieve this system from the ground if the hitch is tied on both ends of the rope.
 
I'm with you Ranger, I would prefer to ascend on the wrench and my access line, less to fuss with.

but we both know Chip is still in the closet on his gear-weenie status; he is truly the king and all others will bow in amazement when he does finally come out and reveal :)
 
I'm a retired gear weenie, sick of hauling shite.
I don't like wrenching on the access line because I haven't found a way to climb.... with style... with the wrench on the rope.
I like Rich's thimble setup but haven't tried it.
Push a floating anchor is redundant but it's simple with everything pre-configured in the bag.
Plus I have two ropes in the tree so if I want to leave the trunk toe and advance my TIP with a choke tie, no problem.
 
when you say climb, do you mean ascending with it, or working the tree with it?

I have found climbing the tree more often is easier than with DRT, and I pop the pantin in; put one hand below the wrench, between it and my hitch, pull up with my left hand, push up with my right, it is pretty easy and efficient after you get the swing of it.

an old rock-man like yourself would have more than enough upper body explosiveness to climb like this.

If I can do, than we all know you can Chip :)


having a second rope is good though, I may start taking one with me to use choked if I feel like it.
 
Arborcare, Maybe give another rope a shot. I have never found velocity to be rope friendly even in ddrt. also I usually on straight full weight descents, I find adding a little friction is sometimes a good idea. It does not provide near the friction of a rack or an eight. Curious to are you over 200 lbs? I really wonder if there is any weight differences. I have also wondered about ambient quality, drier climates, more humid climates.

Chip, I think pantin less footlocking on the wrench is a good way to go. When I had the pantin sewed on to my boot I used it all the time. that sort of fell apart and now I find myself in the tree a lot without the pantin. What I did in the AR i never do at work because it is irretrievable, Not a requisite for the AR though and its fast. The Blakes hitch on the double line is a surprisingly good hitch. Another thing you can do is tie off to the limb with a bowline with a bight and put your hitch and wrench on a tether. You can footlock both lines like normal but your hitch is just on the one leg. Get to where you need to go and clip back in at your harness. If you set it up right you don't have to open any life supporting biners aloft.

You can also run the cambium saver up there with a stopper knot and work off the standing leg. This is better retrieved after multiple redirects.there is a little discussion of that on another thread
 
Pantin done right is easier and faster no doubt. But there is a trade off to having it on your foot. I like rocking it old school with just a hitch and a rope, and a rope wrench. simplicity is easier on the mind
 
Yeah, thats just frikken GREAT Kevin.
Here I was, happy as a clam, champion of simplicity with my taped together ascenders, DdRT and footlocking and you turned my world upside down with your stupid Rope Wrench, made my favorite gear obsolete and now I can't even ascend a damn rope without 4 pieces of hardware and two hitches... THANKS BUDDY!
 

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