Rope service life

robinia

robinia

Participating member
Location
Ontario, Canada
Anyone else read in Don Blair's book that any rope older than 3 years should be discarded? (due to general material degradation)
Do you agree with/abide by this opinion?

I have a couple split tails that are well beyond that age but essentially still new. I realize there are many variables based on condition, wear, history, shockloading, material, construction, etc. so I'll make it really simple: consider the question refering to good condition cordage, treated well, with no cause for concern other than it's age.

Thoughts?
 
I agree, rope is too cheap to take the risk.

I'm not up to typing the whole thing over again but YOSAR did tests on ropes that were stored and never used. They all retained ~100% static strength... and they ALL broke on the first dynamic test fall.

They retain static strength but they lose their stretch under shock load.

Rope is under a buck a foot... unless it's something hyper fancy.
 
Nope lifespan huh? Well I use mine just on the weekends because I am in school but I know a guy that replaces all of his climbing hard wear every year and a guy that starts with 120 feet of rope and uses it until it gets two short because he keeps cutting split tails out of it. HAHA and showed up to the climbing comp with a 75 foot rope...lets just say it didn't pass. Replace it when you think it needs replacing.
 
[ QUOTE ]


I'm not up to typing the whole thing over again but YOSAR did tests on ropes that were stored and never used. They all retained ~100% static strength... and they ALL broke on the first dynamic test fall.

They retain static strength but they lose their stretch under shock load.



[/ QUOTE ]


What about a rope used once a month? In like new condition, I should discard it after 36 uses?
 
I worked with a guy a few years back who had 2 hanks of pro spec line, 120' and a 200' that he had been climbing on, almost every day, for 5 years! I asked him why he didn't use the brand new poison ivy line that he had hanging in his garage instead of climbing on "death line". His response, "I'm used to it, and it hasn't killed me yet... Has it". I guess to each his own. I usually climb on my lines for a year and a half before retiring it to rigging or guy lines. I don't like when the sheath on my Lines get too "fuzzy". I totally agree that $150 bucks for a new line is well worth it, especially for the peace of mind that comes with it.
 
I agree! My ropes get retired well before it's too late.
I like the thought that my ropes are always in good condition. If I am in doupt about my gear, I retirer it....
And it gives me a lot of rigging carabiner / ropes as well
shades.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I agree, rope is too cheap to take the risk.

[/ QUOTE ]

But what IS this "risk"? --how 'bout weekly replacement?
You'll believe something couched in a few years, but not weeks?
Fine, where's the evidence?! Vendor statements? (There is at least
some notable departures on this --i.p., Beal ropes for rockclimbing
ropes gave a decade-old blessing for lightly used ropes, in contrast
to other vendors saying something like "5 years".)

[ QUOTE ]
I'm not up to typing the whole thing over again but YOSAR did tests on ropes that were stored and never used. They all retained ~100% static strength... and they ALL broke on the first dynamic test fall.

They retain static strength but they lose their stretch under shock load.

Rope is under a buck a foot... unless it's something hyper fancy.

[/ QUOTE ]

And the UIAA some years back asserted in a public document that
NO ropes --even some couple three decades old-- failed to hold
at least one severe drop (FF 1.8, roughly). I'd like to see that YOSAR
report and data and test method. (The UIAA thus advised that rope
could be used in top-rope (sling-shot belay) climbing "until the
sheath wears through" --a combination there of limited forces
along with rope durability.)

But it does seem fair to say that dynamic capability declines.
Still, it begs the question of when this decline poses a risk such
that replacement is the proper action.

With all of the ropes out in use, one would think that such questions,
of interest to users (maybe a threat to sellers, if results indicated no
urgency to replace) would be finally put to some tests using donated,
preferably pretty well usage-documented cordage.

And there have been tests of rockclimbing rope showing greater
degradation of the ends (hence some periodically trim off these)
vs. the center portions of the rope. --and also degradation from
rappelling (though this might vary with method).

--dl*
====
 
[ QUOTE ]
I worked with a guy a few years back who had 2 hanks of pro spec line, 120' and a 200' that he had been climbing on, almost every day, for 5 years! I asked him why he didn't use the brand new poison ivy line that he had hanging in his garage instead of climbing on "death line". His response, "I'm used to it, and it hasn't killed me yet... Has it".

[/ QUOTE ]

I guess that guy is looking to have his rope break on him one day when he is climbing on it. He'll soon learn his lesson.
 
I've never heard of rope failure from a fall in arborist circles. Most likely because aroborists maintain very little slack in the climbing system so the degree of shockloading is kept to a minimum. Most, if not all, of climbing line failure is caused by mechanical damagage. I have heard of a climbing saddle failing from old age, dry rot, etc. I'm sure the same thing could happen and probably has happened to rope in the days of hemp. Just don't see it happening in 3 years to nylon rope, unless the rope is soaked in a vat of bar oil and left to dry every day in the sun. Having said that, I don't think I have had a rope last any longer than 3 years anyway. This is usually due to minor abrasions that begin to effect my trust in the rope over time. That, and the fact that everyone likes buying new stuff.

Having said all that, I'm sure Don Blair has plenty of reasons for making that statement. Makes me wonder what they were, I'm sure they would be good ones.
 
yeah, if I ever got three years of use out of a climb line Id be happy. I also have never heard of a climber breaking his life line. Better be more thoughtfull about your TIP than anything. I am curious about that 3/4 inch rigging line that has been sitting new in a box for dang near two years now. When, one day, I get that enormous rigging job that I need a 3/4 inch rope for, will it be up to the task?
 
Who's to say a lot of guys don't buy ropes that are 2 years old anyway. Especially clearance items. This is complete conjecture, of course. Don't know the shelf life of items at arbo supply places. But, having visited the Sherrill/Vermeer dealer near here, I am pretty sure a lot of that stuff sits around for some time.
 
I don't see a problem with rope sitting for a while, AS LONG AS IT'S PUT OF THE SUN. Work, negligence, and UV light are the main causes of damage to nylon/poly rope. I have a rope that I have climbed on for 5 years (never washed), and yes, it's been shortened and getting ready for retirement.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for staying alive while I'm up there, but I'm sure the retailers don't mind harping on the rope replacement/safety spiel to sell more rope, too. As highclimber said, most smart climbers keep their slack tended, so if they did end up falling the shock load would be as minimal as possible. Just take care of it and watch yer saws, you'll know when it needs replacing.
 
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