Rigging Gear purchase

Late to conversation but...I went through the same thing a while back and now currently have way to much crap for one man. I probably do more rigging with 3/8 and 1/2 lines than anything else. My 9/16 and 5/8 have been used maybe 3 times. Like others have said you can do a lot with the smaller lines, you just have to use you head more. I own several porty sizes and unless it is going up the tree with me I would just get the standard size. I also did get a bollard for when I do use the bigger lines but it is just to damn heavy to drag out unless I really need it. Now that being said, if you are going to start bombing 1,000lb pieces from the canopy I might switch up my answer.
 
NorCalBrock said:
X2 on CMI
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SomethingWitty said:
Super in love with CMI blocks
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Somehow we lost the snap ring out of a CMI 5/8" block that keeps the upper pin and bushing in place. I tried several times to find one locally, but it's an odd size, so contacted CMI to see if they could send me one. They said send the block back, they'd inspect it and fix it. Yesterday, I received a brand new block in the mail from them!! No note, no letter, no bill, just here you go. Now that's how you do customer service!
 
@Jeff; Wow, that's amazing. I own two of their foot ascenders, and I've got the same issue with one of them that many folks have, which is that the foot straps wear out more quickly than some others. I think I called them once asking about buying a replacement foot strap, and they said that since it is a sewn-on item, I just needed to mail the ascender to them and they'd replace the foot strap for free.

Still haven't done it, of course. Nice to know that they back up their products. I think most if not all of their stuff is manufactured right here in the USA, providing employment for some folks in that part of West Virginia, if I'm remembering correctly.

Tim
 
ATEC15 said:
So I'm looking to purchase my very first rigging setup in the near future. I would like to get the dmm impact block(5/8") and also the medium port a wrap(5/8"). I know by purchasing the 5/8" impact block, I will have to use a rigging line that's 5/8" or less, but what size can my whoppie, loopie, or dead eye sling be? I've searched online at treestuff and wesspur...if everything in this setup will be 5/8", then every piece of rope will be the color red, which is odd. I don't know why they would make all 5/8" rope/slings red. I'd rather have assorted colors to label which rope goes with the block and which one goes with the port a wrap(the color is not a big deal though). Also would you recommend a whoppie, loopie, or dead eye sling over the other? I was thinking about just purchasing 2 eye slings over the "oopies" being that you have to literally tie an cows/timber hitch to lock it down rather than girt hitching with the "oopies". Any thoughts?
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Hey, ATEC15! You've received a lot of really great advice from the veterans on this forum, who all know a lot more than I do. The one small thing that I would add to the mix is my preference for the Stein lowering devices. Here's a link to the bigger one of the two, which will handle a 5/8ths" rope if it is ever needed. It is a pretty heavy sucker, though, at 13.7 pounds. The bigger sized bollard is probably easier on the ropes, though, besides just accepting the larger rope size.

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=1922&item=1223

The big difference between the Stein bollard and the Port-a-Wrap design is that the Stein has a ring at the top that makes it possible to hang it up on the trunk of a tree, which allows it to maintain a vertical orientation. I just girth hitch an endless loop sling around the trunk at a suitable working height, clip a rigging biner through the end of the sling, then pick up the Stein lowering device and hang it on the biner. Now that all of the weight is being held by the sling, I can relax and tie my cow hitch around the tree, connected to the bottom ring on the Stein lowering device. The rigging rope can be added or removed without having to take off either of the Stein device's attachments to the tree, and because the device does not flop down, it is easier to pull slack out of the rigging rope, if needed. My Stein bollard is a beautifully made piece of gear.

Here's a link to a video about the Stein lowering devices by the always well-spoken Reg Coates. (@Reg)


That's about all I have for now, other than to say that if you haven't already done it, you should explore all of the videos that Reg has produced, and save his channel as a favorite place. You'll be learning from one of the best, if you do.

Tim
 
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TimBr said:
The big difference between the Stein bollard and the Port-a-Wrap design is that the Stein has a ring at the top that makes it possible to hang it up on the trunk of a tree, which allows it to maintain a vertical orientation.
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FYI, I've seen people do that with the lifting eye on a Port-o-wrap, using a small bungee or similar. Although I must confess I really don't see the need: Push the bight of the rigging line thru the eye and over the nub, pull down with the left hand and up with the right to tension the rigging line and stand the POW up, and take wraps. What's so difficult or time-consuming about that? I do it 100 times a day when I'm on the ground and really haven't seen the need to "improve" upon it.
 
TCtreeswinger said:
Daniel if you're loading 1/2" line like that, how often are you replacing ropes? Just curious
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plenty
I actually was using that piece for a video showing the benefits of true blue rope for rigging.. had the dyno out all day.. I always like to keep a fresh roll of true blue int he garage.. Just broke it out.. so the 3 200' pieces I cut from it should last a year or maybe more, depending...
 
Daniel said:
that's an 1100 lb piece of oak..... I think the true blue should handle your side jobs just fine...

and here's a big tulip top coming over on true blue....


CMI or ISC doesn't matter much.. get something that is rated at 25,000 lbs and then just get some light shackles and put them on short pieces of old climbing or rigging line for redirects...

That said.. though we all have individual viewpoints.. I AM feeling the love here..
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Definitely the biggest wood ive seen put on True blue. I wouldn't have hadt he nut to put it on that, but the I again I don't have 100 years of using it like you Daniel.

Just playin' ol'man
 
CutHighnLetFly said:
Definitely the biggest wood ive seen put on True blue. I wouldn't have hadt he nut to put it on that, but the I again I don't have 100 years of using it like you Daniel.

Just playin' ol'man
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No worries..
I was actually more concerned with the tree failing than the rope... being tulip makes a huge difference too... pretty light compared to oak.. I really need to get the dyno out on some big rigging like that and come up with real numbers.. I only used it with one oak so far..
 
Matt J Leppek said:
If you don't have much rigging experience, I think you should start off with some 1/2in rigging line such as true blue, poly, or stable braid. The rope should always be the weakest link.

9/16 is pretty close to most 1/2 lines, just heavier and you don't need it most of the time.

5/8 is rarely necessary, unless you work on huge oaks a lot. And HEAVY

But IMO for you first purchase, I would go with Samson true blue, 200ft. A very forgiving and well wearing line for anything you come across.
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This is not good advice. 5/8 ropes are not that heavy. Are you carrying a rope bag around during your removal? Larger rope, larger safety margin. 1/2 in is not for everything. Rope should be the weakest part of the system? Why? If u never need any thing larger than 1/2 in then u are not doing large removals. Or u are taking tiny pieces or you are being reckless.
 
sherwood7 said:
This is not good advice. 5/8 ropes are not that heavy. Are you carrying a rope bag around during your removal? Larger rope, larger safety margin. 1/2 in is not for everything. Rope should be the weakest part of the system? Why? If u never need any thing larger than 1/2 in then u are not doing large removals. Or u are taking tiny pieces or you are being reckless.
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THis is a perfect example of a major misunderstanding in the industry..
 
It's the negative rigging scenarios with wood that really end up calling for a larger line,trees are different everywhere,just depends on what you're climbing...
 
Daniel said:
THis is a perfect example of a major misunderstanding in the industry..
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It's not a misunderstanding, it's called a difference of opinion.

True blue
1/2 in, 7300 lbs breaking, 8.8 lbs/100ft

Dynasorb
5/8 in, 18000 lbs breaking, 13.3 lbs/100ft

Wtf is the misunderstanding. Less than 5lbs/100ft buys you 10,700 lbs breaking strength? And don't talk any smack about elongation/stretch etc. dynasorb is made for rigging, true blue and 11.7 climbing lines are not.Sure you don't need 5/8 for everything, but for many jobs it buys you extra insurance and cycles to failure. Are we throwing the swl out the window? One rope is not for everything. I don't care what you do, but don't give some newer guy looking for advice some crappy bias opinion. Look at the facts and choose the right rope for the right type of job.
 
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