Rigging Gear purchase

Hmm. Guess so. From experience, I have used the "medium" with 5/8" rope and it's really tight with even a 1/2 wrap. PiTA!. Got a large and smoother than buttered pancakes.
But do what you like, what may be good for you, may not be for me then vice versa.
I would definitely recommend some 1/2" lines and gear. Matt has some good points!
Who wants 5/8" rope & gear hanging from your saddle "allthetime" ?


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We use 1/2 inch lines about 99% of the time. We have a 5/8 super braid for when things get serious but it only comes out about twice a year. We have also been using the CMI blocks for years without any issues. As far as the slings go, I'm a big fan of the ultraslings, loop runners and spliced eyes. We run a completely knotless system, it's easier, faster ,and dummy-proof.
 
That would be my recommendation. Middle of the road between 1/2 and 5/8, and it's much more affordable. Make some money with it and pick up the next step up you need.
 
So if I decided not to go with the dmm block, which would be better? CMI or ISC? I've read on treestuff "ask an expert" that a CMI block which is 5/8" are only compatible with a 5/8" sling(upper sheave), but other blocks(ISC/DMM) will allow 3/4" slings.
 
I've used both. Isc spring blocks won't disappoint. The dmm is more durable, but isn't as easy to open. My two cents is- Start with atlas, isc block, and pinto rig. With this configuration you can do normal rigging, negative, span rigging, and double block rigging. It's a solid combination for versatility, and it will make you money while you plan for upgrades.
 
I forgot to mention- the cmi sling capacity can be a nuisance. They are useful tools, but not as versatile, and versatility is key.
 
What kind of work do you anticipate doing the majority of the time? Prune removal/aerially ground. N pound?
Who will be runnin the ropes for you? Same person all th time?
Personally Dmm block is kinder on ropes and trees
Helps to know where you are at to get where you are going
 
RopeShield said:
What kind of work do you anticipate doing the majority of the time? Prune removal/aerially ground. N pound?
Who will be runnin the ropes for you? Same person all th time?
Personally Dmm block is kinder on ropes and trees
Helps to know where you are at to get where you are going
Click to expand...

Well I'm slowly learning from my foreman and he said that it's good to have a rigging setup, so this will be my first rigging purchase. We do power line clearances on our daily job. Pulling branches away from the line and clearing it, but I would like to be prepared for side job removals.
 
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ATEC15 said:
Wouldn't it be better/safer going with 5/8"....knowing that if it can handle huge oaks, then it should handle anything else I come across with. I don't want to buy a 1/2" setup and later get in to bigger rigging situations which will need bigger diameter ropes. I figured just spend the money with the bigs
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What are the trees and jobs that you do?
I have always thought standard blank statements are ok. Around my work I spend as much time looking into rigging as the other guys do set and the newest saddles, etc.
I think if you are competent enough to buy and use rigging gear you should know what you need.

For instance we have a 5/8" line on our trucks but gets used rarely and our 1/2" lines come out on every other tree.

Your choice is an all around fine choice. I'm just saying be creative and build your system for your wants and you'll have more fun using it.

Oldfart does alot of short rigging videos give them a watch
 
ATEC15 said:
So if I decided not to go with the dmm block, which would be better? CMI or ISC? I've read on treestuff "ask an expert" that a CMI block which is 5/8" are only compatible with a 5/8" sling(upper sheave), but other blocks(ISC/DMM) will allow 3/4" slings.
Click to expand...
Check out the swl of 5/8" vs. 3/4" is it enough for you?
 
ATEC15, if you surveyed everyone here on the Buzz, you'd get quite a few different opinions on what you should buy. Not that any of them are wrong or bad, just personal preferences. So along the lines of what everyone above is stating, you need to think about what you're currently doing, how much you want to spend, and what you honestly predict you'll be doing. That way you can sort thru the opinions and pick what's best for you.

A) Dead eye slings are the least expensive option and the most versatile. They're also the slowest and most labor intensive, which is why most of us use "oopies" in a production setting. They're just faster. But even if your rigging collection grows to a $10,000 all-inclusive assortment, you'll still have a use for dead eyes. So definitely a good place to start.

B) The guys are right: You can do A LOT of work with a 1/2" line, and the weight difference between that and a 5/8" is substantial. No matter how much your collection expands, you're always going to want a 1/2"er around, and like Matt said, if you get a job big enough that requires a 5/8", it'll also pay for the 5/8"! Start with a 1/2".

C) I don't know if Swifty's numbers are correct (Not criticizing, I'm just unsure) but his idea is correct: The large Porty is easier to work with, easier on ropes, and since you're not carrying it into the tree with you, the weight and size don't matter. For the small price difference, just buy the large and you're set for life.

D) Blocks are where people will differ the most in opinions. I personally think the stainless CMI's offer the best bang for the buck. Simple, brutally strong and not too expensive. I've worked with them for years and while I can see what other people comment on about them not being as smooth or rope friendly as others, I've never once seen any rope damage caused by a CMI. So IMO, it seems to be more of a theoretical problem than an actual problem.

Hope this helps.

Jeff
 
If you are just starting out doing side work, go cheap, light, and versatile. You can do an immense about of work natural crotching with a $65 200' hank of 3 stand polyester like pro master. 12 strand polyester like forestry pro is good for natural crotch or hardware and still pretty cheap. Start with a pinto on a chain reactor or BARC. Buy a used figure 8 from a rock climber and use the clock hitch with an old rope for friction, or put the rigging line on a beach towel and just use wraps. When you get some experience under you belt, you will learn what you really want, and you won't have had to tie up your money in rigging gear you might not end up wanting . You don't have to hit a man hour revenue rate on side work, so you can always just take smaller pieces. Be realistic about the jobs you're going to do at first, and most often.

Personally, I love light gear. I have a 200' 3/8" rope that I use a lot with a retrievable rigging ring sling. I've also got 90' of 7mm accessory cord for tag lines, small pull lines, hand lines, very light lowering and canopy anchor pull down. Half inch rope with rigging rings, the little green spring block, pintos, and the omni 2.6 take care of the lion's share of the rest.

I abuse the half inch rope some because it's cheap, but never hesitate to use a bigger rope, especially while negative rigging. 5/8 feels really nice in the hand.

Never buy rigging ropes shorter than 200'...you'll end up with shorter ropes anyway, I promise. Don't sweat the portawrap sizes too much, you eventually need 2 of them anyway, and for really big stuff, or lots of blocking, you want a bollard.

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Super in love with CMI blocks. I have one (my first) that has been handling most of my meanest stuff for years.

It handled us gluing my 5/8th stable braid to the portawrap with no issues almost 3 years ago.
I learned my lesson. No more negative rigging millable oak logs on regular gear.

Am I the only one who loves 16 strand ropes as a nice intermediate 1/2 inch? Some stretch, handles natural crotches like a champ, better tensile than 12 strand.
I love arbormaster. It will probably always be my go-to miscellaneous rigging rope. It is named appropriately.
 
that's an 1100 lb piece of oak..... I think the true blue should handle your side jobs just fine...

and here's a big tulip top coming over on true blue....


CMI or ISC doesn't matter much.. get something that is rated at 25,000 lbs and then just get some light shackles and put them on short pieces of old climbing or rigging line for redirects...

That said.. though we all have individual viewpoints.. I AM feeling the love here..
 

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