Rigging by yourself?

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Never tried it, although I've never forgotten how.

See picture.

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This is what I was thinking of as well. The thing with brendonv's picture is that you are unable to retrieve the loopies. With the setup here that mattbc came up with you have a way to retrieve it.

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You could do it the criminally ineffecient way of using a whole lot of slings and the unrecommended way of lowering it using the tail of your climbing line with a multiple carabiners to rig everything down to the ground till you run out of loop runners then climbing all the way down to the ground just to climb all the way back up to do it all over again. I know you guys are reading this thinking that doesn't make a lick of sense at all right? Well someone out there does it that way... NOT ME!!!
 
inefficient? there is dual purpose in coming down to the ground regularly. one retrieve rigging slings, two deal with the large volume of material that is on the ground after mincing, flopping, and rigging. i hate when climbers leave large piles of material junked up around a tree during a removal operation give a guy a chance to move the crap out of the way and the over all job will be twice as fast. to me it's not a big deal to spike and self belay myself up 75' in a couple of minutes. imho it's just another day at the office
 
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I dont think solo removal is such a great idea.
Very Dangerous

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as if "MR. SOLO RIGGER".....;) LOL

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I know RIGHT? That's exactly what I was thinking.


Of all the people here who could tell you how it's done, talk to Jesse.
 
It's not complicated, I've used it a few times doing bouquets in pines. You need some weight to get the pieces to fall smoothly... and lots of runners, take lots of runners.

You can skip the figure eight and natural crotch over a stub; the eight's good for keeping the anchor point above the work though.
 
all i have to say is: munter; its wicked simple and weighs nothing and will let the piece run if they are heavy enough. if you need more friction than that do the tree wraps for the heavy pieces/
 
chip i bet that would work awesome for that; i can see a guy on the porty lowering a whole ring on a white pine like that without much drop in the rigging or loss of rigging height. the loss ofd head room is the biggest problem with bouquet rigging in the traditional sense. seems like double whipping a bouquet would solve that problem.
 
If you have a mini porty you can terminate the end of the line to the upper loop, then clip your loop runner, then take your wraps.
 
Alright I started on the job today... and it really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, kinda relaxing actually. This is the first time I've done all the rigging by myself. I attached a pic of the two trees I'm working on. I started on the one on the right. I got it all rigged down besides the stick, which I will be using on the other tree. I ended up using the 600' of rigging line Idea. ( I knew I had to buy it for something ) I tied midline knots, and attached endless loop sling with a steel carabiner to the branch. A block, Porty and two eye slings and I was in buisness. I rigged everything but the trunks in 12 ties.
Spent the rest of the day getting my rope out of the mess and then cleaning up. Thanks for all the good ideas, definetly gonna try some out in the future. And thanks for that link, its exactly what I was looking for. I'll try to get some more pics tomorrow.
 

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You can hang a block high in the tree for a speedline terminated at the ground, then have the falling end come down to you. Using stubs or a friction device (munter) you can anchor the rope after clipping the branch and tensioning appropriately (beware shock loading). Letting the rope run through the friction device/ stubs if need be.

You can use the speedline's falling end as a the working end of a lowering line, using stubs or friction device for control. This might be for the last one piece rigged, after doing some of the Double Whip Tackle DWT described above.

You can rig your trunk wood off, if needed, in small blocks using a clove hitch (tied off with half hitches on a bight), midline, and get several blocks down in a rope length. Descend, untie, buck wood, climb back up.

I'd use a climb line rope bag, for sure.
 
Worked for almost 2 years by myself when I first started ATC.

I have a Gri-gri dedicated for light rigging. They're rated to slip at around 1100lbs. As often as possible I would use a short friction saver (dedicated for rigging) in a stout union on the rigged limb. Once it's on the ground the whole kit comes back up to you.

I would also be inclined to set up a sling that mimics a Rope Guide choking action that you could retrieve as well.

The Gri-gri set up worked amazing on a job I did 3 years ago. Winter, short staffed, manitoba Maple removal downtown TO with a huge drag. I would set, cut, rig and lower just in time for the groundy to return for another load of brush. Time and place for that set up was perfect.

That said, Natural Selection is a cold hearted b^5!h, get some help.
 
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