Removal technique suggestions?

O OK got it the 45, and like that approach! As far as distance goes, velocity is also a big factor. I've taken down 30" pines that uprooted, but just leaned on the house, no damage.
 
If you have the man power and the roof is not too steep, you could lower that back side onto the roof.
Its not something that experienced riggers do much, but may be easier that setting all the rigging of a drift line, depending on your experience. Also David lays out a nice plan, and those large limbs, if taken whole, would be a lot to handle from the ground. You'll probably do most of them in pieces

And the great unknown is the drop zone?????? How much room to drop this thing? Pulling over a back leaner is a lot easier than rigging out a tree over a roof.. Sometimes you just need to tuck a side in or remove a few lower limbs to get a tree like that to fit the dz...

As far as the loss of this one tree effecting the stability of the trees around it, its very unlikely... I have seen trees go over after a number of other trees on a hill had been removed, but one tree in the woods is very unlikely to make a significant difference in wind exposure. On the other hand, red oak is fairly resistant to decay. Those cuts may or may not be an issue.. The tree could be sound, and as suggested actually be a blocker, protecting against other trees falling on the house.

So this tree is an excellent example.. you need BOTH book knowledge and years of experience seeing what trees do, to make a good call on a tree like that.

good subject and discussion from all..
 
guymayor said:
O OK got it the 45, and like that approach! As far as distance goes, velocity is also a big factor. I've taken down 30" pines that uprooted, but just leaned on the house, no damage.
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Excellent point GUY...
That's what I was saying about experience... I've got a hazardous tree evaluation video coming up making that exact point!
 
I took down a big wide mulberry once that looked like it was all over the roof. When we got done trimming off the mess, there was only one pressure point on the vent pipe. Didn't scratch a shingle..

You can watch videos of falling trees and see the way they accelerate during a fall... someone should do the math on that!
 
great point Daniel

i recall reading about how you tip a log in air (like my avatar photo here) and the math on whether it will flip or not, how many times if so, or even lightly tip and fall flat,, all in the difference of a cut

it was a long time ago , but ill dig to see if it mention the math of speed of fall
 
"As far as the loss of this one tree effecting the stability of the trees around it, its very unlikely."

Well I didn't say they'd all keel over immediately, but overall and every time a tree or branch is removed, the stability of adjacent trees and branches is definitely decreased. Just a general rule, not always a crucial factor tho.
 
I like treevets leash prescription. Quick and inexpensive. Installed loose is good as it preserves the rope used and allows the root collar to experience and react to wind forces.
I use seat belt in trees $100 instead of cable and through hardware at $300-$400. Black and uv resistant. Very low friction. I explain the difference to the client. Short term vs long term insurance. Buys time to reduce. Reduce two years and follow up again in 5-7. Then tree will be retrenching and increasing taper. At that point the band aid may as well come off. Now when I look up and see failure potential I think oh oh that trees not wearing it's seatbelt.
I know what u might be thinking. If it needs a support then use cable or remove the tree. U might also be thinking that supports shouldn't be used at all. I think we need to use them carefully and realize we've created a tree that now requires regular monitoring
 
I'm not done yet
I know what your thinking
Here he goes again
Bla bla bla
Anyway. Supports should be installed slightly loose so trees can react and avoid over extension, unless cracking or separation has already started from previous over extension. This is especially an issue with the popular, easily installed cobra. Not a horrible product but flawed. It's best feature is initial installation quality and dampening rubber inserts. But as expensive as a longer lasting through hardware cable. And please, no j lags. Relying on thread?
 
Lots of good points. I've changed my mind about the distance from the house issue. Ultimately too many factors to look at it that way. Either way can be bad. I once had a spruce fail at the root and sat against the house like a 2000 lb pillow. 20 degrees. Pulled it back up, strapped it back to another spruce and topped it 20 feet off the top. Or should I say reduced. No I'm goin with topping with a reason. Anyway strap was 18000 lb yellow. Hidden in crown. Inspected two years later and now four years later both spruce are looking good.
One other thought about the distance from the house issue. Assume a tree with a structural issue but with an equal chance of failure in any direction. Now take that tree and put it 5 feet from a house. Now the house is within 40 to 50 percent of the target zone. Now 35 feet away maybe the house is within 20 to 25 percent of the target zone. So an equally likely to fail tree is half as likely to hit a house that's further away. Either way if it does hit yes it could be worse or better depending on the branch vs trunk. With oaks further might likely worse. With a spruce with 40 feet of trunk and 3o feet of crown, closer might be worse especially if it's a bungalow unable of stopping the flop at 20 degrees
 
Another factor in the degree of damage to the structure is it's age and construction. This place may not even feel a hit. I've had the luxury of experimenting with felling trees onto a house (honest!) and was amazed with the minimal damage caused. It really is a complex scenario that you should really do a complete analysis of. Since it's a friend you'll have the opportunity to do it.
 
the issue with distance is only particularly significant on monster trees, the kind that can come through the roof and kill people... its a combination of mass and speed at impact and slightly influenced by the species/shape/type of branch structure.... oaks in particular have the type of branch structure and wood strength to pierce through roof and joist... so though the odds of hitting a house may be significantly smaller when a tree has some distance to the house, the consequences are potentially so bad, that often the only option is removal. I had a monster 40"+ tulip tree go through a clients roof and miss her by a few feet... saw another large tulip cut a garage in half and total both cars.... plenty of factors to consider in any hazard evaluation, just much more serious consequences with monster trees...
 
Like every one else said , it's tuff to know if there is big cavities or roots damage etc... on photo. But if not you need 3-4 chainsaw cut to reduce the tips that goes over the house and 40' of branch saver 4 tons. I would do everything to have a oak like this in my yard. Have fun.
 
Redtree said:
Good point treehumper. Maybe the prescription should be to beaf up the roof. Or Put twenty blow up santas up there.
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Another part of the prescription is to have "good" insurance. Covers "all" tree damage and small deductible. That certainly will add to enjoyment of your trees and bombproof you from the predatory tree doomsday doorknockers.
 
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Redtree said:
Good point treehumper. Maybe the prescription should be to beaf up the roof. Or Put twenty blow up santas up there.
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Unless your a carpenter or Santa installer, you won't be prescribing either will you. The point being that the justification for removal isn't always valid on the basis of damage. Cleaning up after Sandy, I dealt with plenty of "monster" trees of all species that did little damage and some that did huge amounts. What you want to be associated with is the reasoned voiced not the doomsday bunch.

As it stands, beefing up the roof of a house in a forested setting may be a much better approach to guarding against the worst damage and possible injury. Know any good framing carpenters or civil engineers?
 
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Oh, inflatable Xmas decorations... bad idea. I have a friend whose wife wanted to decorate the roof with an inflatable Santa, Reindeer, Tree, Snowman, Elves and Tooth Fairy. I pointed out to her that such things are the favorite target of teenage vandals and people who don't live in trailer parks and who have good taste, who are likely to take potshots at them with a pellet rifle. She took the hint and decided against putting them up. She was stuck with all those inflatable Xmas decorations.

Out of the goodness of my heart, I bought the inflatable Tooth Fairy off of her. Purely for scientific research purposes, of course.
 
hard to make it practical but Still, I've often pondered inexpensive (or less than the reduction or removal cost of many trees) ways to beef up a roof.
Ok I got it. Just beef up the ceilings in the bedrooms (or top level rooms) with rough cut beams from logs set up perpendicular to the joists. I think I know where I can find some logs.

Nope I'm still wrong
Anyone got a cheaper idea that doesn't involve Santa or blow up dolls?
Ok I got it.
Four feet of heavy snow on the roof.
Just beef up the roof first.

Reduce the tree install a leash and inspect in five years. If you then decide to cut the tree down then rig it gently onto the roof so it act as a shield for the next tree that will definitely fall one and a half percent easier cause you just exposed it.
 
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