Questions on throw-lines

I had some questions regarding throwlines. I'm getting ready to set up a new deluxe throwline system, and I'm not sure on what line to buy, and the length the line should be. I already have a 1.75mm Zing It 180ft, at it's a great length, but I have trouble with it sometimes not being long enough when I'm removing my FC. So, should I go longer or not. Other than that though, what about diameter for hand throwing. The 1.75, the 2.2mm, or maybe 2mm Dynaglide. (Other question also, is Dynaglide a better than Zing It.)

One last question, if I go with Zing It, is there a place I can buy say a 200' hank, or is it better to just buy a 1000' roll, that way, I can make up a number of different lengths. Thanks!
 
Don't get the Dynaglide! Dynaglide is woven really loose, which gives it the high strength, making it more prone to abraision damage. I use 180' of the 1.75mm zing it with a 10 oz. Harrison rocket on one end and a 12 oz rocket on the other end.
 
Thanks!! I think it's going to come down to either the 1.75mm or 2.2mm (used with an 8oz and 10oz rocket)Looking for a good hand throwing line really, and I heard the 2.2mm is better for that. Any thoughts on this??
 
Fling It is better than Zing It, both are better than Dynaglide....seems to be the consensus....I've not used Dynaglide.

I usually get 1000 feet of each, 1.75 and 2.2, and share it with arbo buds...1.75 ZI really snarls easily, even if stored in a Falteheimer cube....it helps to flake it out before throwing it. 2.2 handles better, and is adequate for all but high throws, rough barked trees and conifers with lots of duffy foliage to maneuver through. I've only used FI briefly, and it was the tiny 1.4mm stuff, which is hard to find. it was nice and stiff when new, then I lost it....
 
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...180ft, at it's a great length, but I have trouble with it sometimes not being long enough when I'm removing my FC.

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Unless the crotch is over 85-90 high that 180 foot throwline should be fine.

When retreiving your FC there is a point that the length of the throwline in the system is three times the height of the crotch and you may think that if you let go of the end of the throwline you will lose it forever. Let go, the end will come back to you, and the throwline will be isolated in the crotch. Then it is just a matter of correctly unthreading the throwline from the FC.

Or are your TIP's frequently 90 plus feet?


I used to recommend Rhino Line, but it's not offered anymore. I now use both 1.75 and 2.2 Zing-It, amongst other things that I'm trying.

As Roger said, a cube will snarl a line, particularly a new line in hot weather. The new lines have a coating on them that helps them run through the tree. The coating softens in the heat, the cube bends the line and creates a mess. This is less of a problem with older lines and in cooler weather.

TK puts a bead on the smaller diameter lines just below the slipknot to give a better 'handle'. I found that this really helps for high throws with small diameter line, but (for me) releases a little differently and takes a little times to get used to.
 
Have used both Zingit and flingit.

Happiest with zingit. The coating is slicker, less waxy and less stiff.

Hard to stuff flingit into a throw bag.

cost per foot is cheaper with the 1000' reel of course, and you can customize your lenghts.

For me 180' is often just a hair to short and quickly becomes only an effective use length of less than 150'

One of my guys is using 200' plus and while it can be a pain to stuff in the sack, that extra lenght is great when over-shooting a large canopy and then working the line to isolate a limb.
 
Good idea, Jim. I could see myself using that one!

I prefer Zing-it to all other throwlines.

I don't have probs with the cube tangling my line....usually. I recommend getting a cube that has its first step as "collapse down onto the string." Some fold in half first and that causes a MESS.

love
nick
 
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What about tailing on another line or even your climbing rope when doing the retrieval?

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Good idea, Jim. I could see myself using that one!


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I must be missing something.

Unless the FC is in a TIP that is over 90 feet or the climbing line goes through a very long redirect, why would you need a throwline longer than 180 feet just to retrieve the FC? The FC does float down the throwline once you let go of the end of the throwline, but I can't remember that that ever caused a problem.

On the pther hand, I always carry at least four throwlines (three in a bag, one in a Cube) and a variety of weights, and regularly tie one throwline to another for some reason or another.
 
Most of the time I would just let the friction of the TL slow the lowering of the FC.

There are two times when I might not though. One is at a competition. There is the likely chance that a judge would take away points for using an uncontrolled removal of gear. Even if the FC came down slowly the climber doesn't have 100% control.

The other is when my descent route has taken me over limbs in a non-direct descent. One time I had a FC snag on a limb on it's way down after letting go of the end of the TL. That meant setting another TL to use as a lift/snag to get the FC unsnagged.

Another solution is that I'll stop at a lower part of the tree and pull the FC down to me while I'm still in the tree. This has to be done carefully unless I don't mind having the bolo of gear come whipping down on my head and knocking teeth out.

I never thought about using the tail of my rope to lower the FC. That saves a bit of time!
 
Tom, that's basically what I had in mind.

But I'm not sure about this:

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... using the tail of my rope to lower the FC. That saves a bit of time!

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I haven't tried it, but it seems that the rope would create a lot of friction and would be heavy to pull into the tree, over the branch, and though the FC.

I have used another TL and that works, its just a lot of line.
 
Using the tail would bring more friction into play.

But, there could be a time where my extra lines aren't right at hand and it would be expeditious to just use the rope.
 

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