prusik on velocity

peder-d

peder-d

Location
Aarhus, Denmark
I climb on either 11mm velocity or 11.7 mm tachyon.
As prusik I have used 10mm ocean polyester for a long time.
It works great on the tachyon, and ok on velocity. But not great on velocity.
Sometimes it either bites too hard or slides a little.
Anyone knows of a better prusik cord.for velocity?
I climb on a 4 plus 3 vt.
If I.climb on a 13 mm xtc, a 7.5 mm bail out vt works great.
 
I had a tough time finding a setup that worked well with velocity. I finally settled on a distel with HRC. It works great for me at 225lbs (~100 kg) fully loaded with my gear.
 
The 8mm OP works well on velocity, so does 8mm beeline.

jp
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The 8mm OP works well on velocity, so does 8mm beeline.

jp
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I will second the beeline and I use a 4/2 VT.
 
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I had a tough time finding a setup that worked well with velocity. I finally settled on a distel with HRC. It works great for me at 225lbs (~100 kg) fully loaded with my gear.

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How hard is it to break the distel with that setup? I'm about the same size as you give or take a couple pounds and no matter what know I use 8mm hrc bites to hard!

I've had pretty good luck with 3/8 tenex and 10mm beeline on my velocity with a 4 + 2 vt
 
I have 8mm HRC 4:1 Distel on a my Velocity lanyard. It seems to work well. I think once a day I have to push the legs back to loosen, but I have also noticed that (sometimes) just straightening the bar of the Distel opens it up enough to tend easier. I know it's not the same as a climbing line scenario, but it seems to work nicely even when I use the lanyard a a mini DRT system.

Good luck!
 
5/16 Samson Ice tail is very smooth. plus it is a snap to splice. In my opinion it is Superior to Beeline in that it dose not glaze or kink.
 
[ QUOTE ]
5/16 Samson Ice tail is very smooth. plus it is a snap to splice. In my opinion it is Superior to Beeline in that it dose not glaze or kink.

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that stuff is to grabby for me
 
personally i like to tie my own tails. i don't like climbing on spliced eyes it changes the dynamics of the hitch and is to expensive or time consuming. when i climb on a hitch it is a vt with three wraps and four or five braids. you must tune the hitch on the ground to prevent serious hockling. tis bad to the bone. the hitch will last between two and three months of hard climbing and they cost about $9 apiece
 
I am on my last 150' of Velocity and ordered another 200'

Step it up and get a mechanical prussik.
driving.gif


Consistent smooth positioning. Smooth metal on rope opposed to inconsistent friction or tighening of cord, rope on rope.
Lock Jacks ability to tend to slack is a simple drop of the tail or feed the slack opposed to the application of force to capture progress or using prussik minding etc
The Lock Jack is far better than a whole slew of knots that need constant attention because of binding, over loosening, side loading biners, twisting, pinching, having to untie because it is to tight or to slack, trying to remember the knot and number of wraps that works best with what rope and the excess bulk because of the addition of another karabiner and prusik minding pulley.

I used to use a few types of prusik cord and found that prusiks have some serious issues; anticipating failure and when to retire, using an endless loop prusik formed with double fisherman’s or water knots being bulky and cumbersome, frustrating because of tying and untying due to changes in weight with heavier saw or increased tension or friction and wear, aggressively and constantly tending to slack. The Lock Jack eliminated these issues as well as creating a safer work environment.

I train an apprentice with little to no experience almost bi-yearly and it is a considerable responsibility to get them confident with the knots and rope movement and to work efficiently and with less effort.
Lock Jack is a safer starting point for an apprentice than the knots because it is a matter of fact that when work is easier it is naturally safer and that is precisely what the Lock Jack accomplishes. I am confident you will find it is more comfortable, feels safer,reduces effort and affords effeciencies.

Lock Jack can be utilized by the novice and professional.

Check out this vid of my children using the Lj.
laugh.gif

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ropearmour#p/u/9/4sQEUrvoE10

My kids make it look so easy.
wink.gif

Oh and I am using Srt/Singing Ropewrench and Lockjack for work positioning and am finding it all a very pleasant suprise with a few hiccups as part of the learning curve.

Hope this helps.
smile.gif
 
I agree too on disliking o.p.
Bought some, but it was extremely unreliable. Felt like it was way too stiff, and way to easy lost contact with the rope. Read thatit was a known problem with the first batch. Anyone with good experience with a never batch of o.p. ?

I never buy spliced eye to eye prusik. A double fisherman I. Both ends, and then It's adjustable and you can attach it on top of your petzl wheel.
 
[ QUOTE ]
But isn't the distel biting too hard?
I find it less "sporty" than the vt :-)

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It only bites too hard if I'm descending a good ways on it.

The distel is definitely less "sporty" but it's bombproof and I almost never have to re-set it.

Maybe there's a spiderjack in your future? Best of both worlds. :)
 
Just tried some 8 mm ocean polyester.
Works great with a 4-3 vt on velocity ! :-)
Great on my tachyon as well.
It bites reliably and slides well when I descend.
Seems a bit better, than my old 10th mm soft heat.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I am on my last 150' of Velocity and ordered another 200'

Step it up and get a mechanical prussik.
driving.gif


Consistent smooth positioning. Smooth metal on rope opposed to inconsistent friction or tighening of cord, rope on rope.
Lock Jacks ability to tend to slack is a simple drop of the tail or feed the slack opposed to the application of force to capture progress or using prussik minding etc
The Lock Jack is far better than a whole slew of knots that need constant attention because of binding, over loosening, side loading biners, twisting, pinching, having to untie because it is to tight or to slack, trying to remember the knot and number of wraps that works best with what rope and the excess bulk because of the addition of another karabiner and prusik minding pulley.

I used to use a few types of prusik cord and found that prusiks have some serious issues; anticipating failure and when to retire, using an endless loop prusik formed with double fisherman’s or water knots being bulky and cumbersome, frustrating because of tying and untying due to changes in weight with heavier saw or increased tension or friction and wear, aggressively and constantly tending to slack. The Lock Jack eliminated these issues as well as creating a safer work environment.

I train an apprentice with little to no experience almost bi-yearly and it is a considerable responsibility to get them confident with the knots and rope movement and to work efficiently and with less effort.
Lock Jack is a safer starting point for an apprentice than the knots because it is a matter of fact that when work is easier it is naturally safer and that is precisely what the Lock Jack accomplishes. I am confident you will find it is more comfortable, feels safer,reduces effort and affords effeciencies.

Lock Jack can be utilized by the novice and professional.

Check out this vid of my children using the Lj.
laugh.gif

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ropearmour#p/u/9/4sQEUrvoE10

My kids make it look so easy.
wink.gif

Oh and I am using Srt/Singing Ropewrench and Lockjack for work positioning and am finding it all a very pleasant suprise with a few hiccups as part of the learning curve.

Hope this helps.
smile.gif


[/ QUOTE ]

It is more time consuming in situations were you need to retie often such as crane removals. As far as teaching new climbers I find it to be unsafe. If the climber were to not put a hand on the rope and panick pulling down the knob its gravity winning. With a knot more chance of a burn and let go reaction.
 
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