Pros and cons of long, stock, or shorter length harness bridges

I am sure it works to lengthen / shorten your bridge. It’s still a bad idea.

1) It forgoes the load testing and rating of the harness.

2) It has the possibility of severing the bridge in a fall. Remote I admit, but not worth chancing considering the consequences.

3) In a fall if the bridge is adjusted “short” the adjuster will most likely slip, leading to very unpredictable asymmetrical loading of the climber’s body.

Tony
 
Can you share how it would sever the bridge in a fall? I was thinking the load would still remain on the D ring as with the original stopper knot (which is still in place ;))
 
Although remote, the very small diameter cord could shed the cover much like an ascender would do to a kernmantle rope. I think bridge would slip first through the knot. Either way bad.

Let me put it this way. When I showed a similar set up to the “treemagineers” the response was a resounding “f” no. As in the harness is not tested nor designed to be modified in that fashion.

If you want an adjustable bridge harness get one that is designed/ tested to do it. We are talking PPE here as I am sure you are aware.

Not trying to ruffle feathers, just getting info out.

Respectfully,

Tony
 
I'm not buying it. It would take an extremely hard fall to possibility strip the cover. If it did strip, it would bunch up at the stopper knot and most of the force of the fall would have disapated as the cover parted, and there would only be your body weight on the stopper, not enough force, or weight to pull it through the ring.
A larger diameter cord could be used.
 
The difference between a RollNLock enhanced rope bridge adjuster and no adjuster is negligible, according to YoYo's recent vid that tested this. The bridge cord typically gives out and snaps, well before the stopper knots fail, both with or without a RollNLock.

Using a blake's with smaller diameter cord as a rope bridge adjustor is a whole different matter. Depending on the strength of the prusik cord and it's ability to perform in a shock load situation, results will probably vary a lot. A non adjustable rope bridge is nice and safe, but until there's a more practical commercial grade harness using something like a RollNLock adjustable D-ring, or a TM D-ring or a bear claw like rigging plate, but with an extra hole for a 2nd rope bridge, there's always some added degree of risk using any kind of modified bridge, even if the risk is only slightly greater.
 
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tex-moto said:
I bought a Rook and stuck it on original bridge next to ring that came on Onyx. Just used it the other day....dang that swivel is soweeet. Doesn’t eliminate but helps reduce twisted cross loading or having to swap around orientation of diners

Question- thinking about adding longer 2nd lanyard. Any techniques for securing the rook (when not in use) so it doesn’t beat up the “twins” when it’s dangling around? Pics are even better.
Click to expand...

I haven’t tried this but ... superglue an earth magnet to one side of the rook and one magnet to your bridge ring ?
 
Acerxharlowii said:
I’ve been using a slip knot with a carabiner to set the length of my bridge
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That has been working well for me. Short when asending SRT long when using 3 to 1 on long horizontal limb walks. However, I still am thinking about how I would like to be able to go out on the branch with a short bridge and lengthen it while weighted for the return back.
 
Mark De La Cruz said:
That has been working well for me. Short when asending SRT long when using 3 to 1 on long horizontal limb walks. However, I still am thinking about how I would like to be able to go out on the branch with a short bridge and lengthen it while weighted for the return back.
Click to expand...
There is always the ct rollnlock
 
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