Problem leaner/barberchair.

I’d spend a couple hours with a throwline trying to break out the tippy branches on the cluster of branches where the two trees intersect rather than make any cuts at the base. I just don’t trust midstem eab-killed ash. The shock of the hit when ‘walking it down’ might break the stem off somewhere halfway up and leave you in a very vulnerable position. Plus those tips will break out with just a small bit of force.
 
I’d spend a couple hours with a throwline trying to break out the tippy branches on the cluster of branches where the two trees intersect rather than make any cuts at the base. I just don’t trust midstem eab-killed ash. The shock of the hit when ‘walking it down’ might break the stem off somewhere halfway up and leave you in a very vulnerable position. Plus those tips will break out with just a small bit of force.
That sounds like a good, safe way to start. If I can get the tree to drop all the way, the problem isn't a problem anymore. I totally agree with you about the midstem weakness of EAB-killed ash. It really surprises me how weak a large stem can be compared to much smaller branches near the top or how strong the root system seems to be. I've not seen any that have uprooted, but many that have broken part way up the seemingly solid stem.
 
I would recommend renting a mini-skid or full size skid, set a line, pull it up straight, and fell it the direction you want. If you get a decent tie-in it shouldn't take too much pulling power. By the looks of it I could pull that one with our Ditch Witch SK1050..
 
thanks for all the word here. I have a job coming up to fall 4 bone dead Ash of similar size, right next to a garage, with a forested drop zone. So i have been anticipating the chances of dealing with dead, hung-up Ash.

Makes me wonder what kind of hinge to create, to reduce the chance of barberchair. and create enough falling speed that they hit the ground. I am thinking of making my facecuts a little oversized to make sure they really want to go. going to pull them carefully with the line going down the back of the tree tied at the base.
 
going to pull them carefully with the line going down the back of the tree tied at the base.
When doing a trunk tie on a pull line, route the line so it wraps around the trunk a couple times. This dissipates the pull from the top into the stem slightly. Not as sure fire as setting some half hitches but definitely worth doing imho.
 
If that were me and a 9 inch tree, I would just notch it at ground level and do a partial back (cripple) cut. Go to the target tree and do a simple fell making darn sure your 45-90% excape path is clear. With such a small tree, I moght even do teh back cuts with a pole saw so I am already further out of the way than I would be with a small saw.
 
I've tried the "pull it down" method several times in similar situations (not with one that had barberchaired), and not had much success. There are too many nearby trees, and the tops just get more tangled. Rigging a pull line through a block fairly high up in a nearby tree has worked pretty well, where the rigging tree is in line but away from the direction of fall. This takes a lot of the weight off the butt of the tree and allows it to sort of slide down gradually as the butt end is pulled away from the stump. Unfortunately in this spot no such rigging tree is available.
God I hate the fucking internet!
 
Attach to the split and pull opposite the lean from far away.

Force it to split and fall. Pull it out the way direction with a truck.

Easy, steady pulling, from far away.





If i was cutting that, I'd have a trucker's ratchet strap on it.
 
Attach to the split and pull opposite the lean from far away.

Force it to split and fall. Pull it out the way direction with a truck.

Easy, steady pulling, from far away.





If i was cutting that, I'd have a trucker's ratchet strap on it.
I considered that very seriously. I would only need about 300 ft of rope, which is no problem. A couple of redirects with rigging blocks and I'm on pavement. I finally decided against it because there was so much of the trunk left that was sort of intact (about half). I decided to go with the "nibble on the compression side" and do a back cut with a pole saw approach. I had the split stem tied and tensioned a bit away from me. I cut almost completely through the hinge before the tree started to move. It settle a little bit and I cut the rest of the way through the hinge with a pole saw, and the stem just stayed there pressing against the stump. One good whack with a sledge hammer and it came off the stump. The rest was very straightforward. Pulled the butt of the stem away from the direction of lean to get the tree to come down (4:1 MA and my lawn tractor). Now it's firewood and brush.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. You guys are the best.
 
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