Pole Saws and Climbing Skills

Good list by Chris, and thanks blink glad to know no regrets. good anecdote on the guy with the 10' wood pole--I think I climbed with him too!

hayauchi great in big open trees, use it regularly still; huge timesaver. these pig/dog ear cuts--if they are on young wood, closure will be rapid. if you think in tree time about the tree's needs they are not such a big deal.

I'll say it again--a 3" rip cut may be better for the tree and close faster than a 6" collar cut.

reduced a badly sprawling willow oak today with the jameson 7-14' spinandclick, which i prefer over the fadiddly longboy. This tree could NOT have been pruned right without it. Ryan Lewis was in it with me--he'll back me up I think. the fiskars would have worked on this tree--shoulda had it with me too. :(
 
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The Silky Longboy is the safest one I've used (I got to test several). The blade folds down and it uses a Sugoi scabbard. Get a Hookfox for it if you buy one, the Longboy doesn't have one built-in.

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I have used the Longboy extensively, real nice saw. I have also tried the after market hooks for hanging the saws, but was not pleased having the extra projection interferring with cuts.

My new favorite is the Zubat polesaw. It is longer, lighter and more handy. I modified the tang of an old saw to form an adjustable hook on the Zubat. This is very handy, folds away when not needed and does not interfer with my cuts.

Dave
 

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Last photo...

I have the bolt tightened to where there is a lot of resistance in moving the hook. This position can be used for setting redirects.

Dave
 

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That's neat DSMc.

We have one of those where I work PT. For some reason I've broke 4 blades dead wooding. Always on dead wood, not live wood. Weird, as I've never snapped a blade in my life, until we started using those. I feel terrible too, at $45 a pop.

You have any trouble? I mean, I try to go easy too.
 
Dave...nice addition!

Silky blades are more brittle than others. Part of the metallurgy needed to have a blade that does all of the other things we like about Silky.

After breaking off the second tap in a machine assembly my boss told me to think of cutting tools like icicles. Tough and strong when they're used in line but fragile when they're bent. I try to remember that with my Silky blades. Other blades are a bit more flexible and forgiving of mistreatment. The trade-off is that they don't perform as well as cutting tools.
 
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For some reason I've broke 4 blades dead wooding.... You have any trouble? I mean, I try to go easy too.

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Yup. The Zubat is more lightly built with a thinner gauge blade. Classic example of design trade offs. Very light weight, fast clean cuts. Also very delicate. So not appropriate for all situations. Like so much of what we have.

Dave
 
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I'll say it again--a 3" rip cut may be better for the tree and close faster than a 6" collar cut.


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Guy - Can you clarify what a 3" rip cut is? I'm curious...
 
I never understand the aversion to pole saw use. I think it is a macho thing.
14' linden pole with mondo blade. Indespensable . Sometimes I will use it to make the final cut on really dynamic storm rigging stuff that I don't want to be near when the doo doo flies.
As far as not being able to make good cuts it is just the same as with any saw: make an undercut a top cut and a final cut.
 
DSMc!!

Shazam! that's a good rig on the zubat. Well played.

i am going to disappear my hook fox ASAP. it is too heavy and bulky out there. And, though there is a hole for a carabiner in the center of the hook, when you hang it from that spot, it doesn't hang vertically. It hangs slightly inclined, which makes it hard to haul up from below without catching on branches on the way up.

that Longboy setup looks real quick and *safe*, too, Tom. But I have many branches to cut before I am done with this zubat thing.
 
you might find this interesting. i trimmed a pair of cuban royal palms that were over 40 feet tall. instead of spiking, i used my friends hunting stand to climb to the top. cuban royals have elongated branch attachments compared to most palms. climbing on the green section under the fronds isn't a good idea so i thought of the best way to go about this job. i was thinking about this thread and the many uses of a pole saw in a tree and grabbed my jameson pruner, slapped on the 2 4 foot poles and violla! i was able to reach the fronds without disturbing the growth of the terminal bud.
 
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I never understand the aversion to pole saw use. I think it is a macho thing.
14' linden pole with mondo blade. Indespensable . Sometimes I will use it to make the final cut on really dynamic storm rigging stuff that I don't want to be near when the doo doo flies.
As far as not being able to make good cuts it is just the same as with any saw: make an undercut a top cut and a final cut.

[/ QUOTE ]Totally agree--polesaws can keep you safer by keeping you farther away.

A 3" rip cut is a 3" cut that rips into the collar.

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What Guy is saying is that it is better to tear a 3" branch with a polesaw then make a 6" cut properly because you cant get out to the three inch branch.

I think better size examples would be 3" branch to 1" branch. You can take a lot of weight off of branches with pole pruners and because they dont shake the tree you can cut the smaller branches.

Both tools indespensible.
 
I got to thinking about it a little more yesterday as I was joggled around the bucket in high winds. The danger factor of polesaw exists with many of the tools of our trade. Chainsaw, chipper, handsaw, bucket truck, working aloft....
End result is that we have a flippin hazard filled job. The trick is , i think, to be able to manage each of these hazards by being truly aware of the harm that they can do to us if we fail to pay complete attention.
 
I take my Zubat up with me on every prune. I made a lanyard for it that clips right into the hole under the blade and the sheath is clipped to the lanyard to keep the blade from snagging my ropes.
 

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