Petzl GriGri Technical Notice Updated

[TLHamel]

It appears that the GriGri Technical Notice has recently been updated.

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/D14_GRIGRI_D145110B_D145100A.pdf

Notice that the use of EN1891 or NFPA 1983 (low stretch) ropes has been eliminated from the literature. The GriGri is listed as compatible with only EN892 dynamic mountaineering ropes.

Also missing is any mention of descending or ascending. However, this comparison table lists descent and ascent as "secondary uses".

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/Produc...-descenders.pdf

Anyway, just happened across it and thought I'd post.

 

[Ron]

Thanks TL, that is interesting isn't it? Just when I thought things would be going the other way, i.e. more applications and ropes, it goes the opposite!

Wonder what defines a 'secondary use' - well other than the manufacturer saying that. And if it's a secondary use what exactly does that mean? Does it mean it can be used, or should only occassionally be used?

 

[moray]

Before we worry about this, or stop using our Grigri's, we need to know what motivates Petzl to remove static ropes from the "compatible" category. If I may hazard a guess, I think for PR reasons, not liability ones, they don't want the blogs to light up with reports of a Grigri failing in a cave rescue or some such and plunging an injured caver and rescuer to their deaths. Very bad PR. Rock climbers would start abandoning the device in droves. Sales would plummet.

Obviously the Grigri will fail if overloaded, and obviously a fall on a static rope will deliver a greater shock than the same fall on a stretchy dynamic. And obviously the device works just fine on static ropes. Petzl can't be dropping statics from the approved list because the device doesn't work on statics--there are thousands of us users who know different. If my guess is correct, they have dropped statics because they fear someone on a static will either break the device or break the rope and they will suffer the PR fallout. This way they can deflect the bad press--the use was unapproved.

 

[Ron]

I don't think anyone is about to give up their Grigris for tree climbing applications. I think cavers have pretty much given up on Grigris for caving long ago for reasons other than manufacturer recommendations.

It may be as simple as Petzl doesn't want any implication, especially to rockers, that they 'approve' the Grigri for static ropes, which would be quite an undesireable impression for rockers.

Since we are hazarding guesses, mine would be that they want to promote the Rig or I'd for static ropes (hence more sales of more expensive devices) and they may be 'demoting' the Grigri to its original purpose, belaying, in hopes of directing more attention to the Rig or I'D for ascending, descending, and work positioning.

 

[moray]

Yep, I think I like your guess better than mine. Lookin' after the bottom line.

 

[TANNER]

Quote: Ron don't sell any thing, but does promote allot of Petzl stuff.

I agree, why not. Heck I was sold by the lock off feature. And if something is safer, why not try to sell it? The only thing about it that I don't get is that with the Rig, it seems like they press the issue for pro use. Wouldn't you push that issue for some thing not as safe or with out some of the safety features?

 

[Ron]

Good point about the safety aspect TANNER. The Grigri's original intent was for belay applications. Climbers began to realize they could ascend with a Grigri and with a minor mod to it, self-belay.

And again, I'm guessing here and this gets back to what moray was saying, but I wonder if those user 'expanded' uses didn't start to make Petzl a little nervous. The use of the Grigri as an ascender has proliferated to almost all areas of climbing and that may have crossed Petzl's comfort zone.

Personally, I like the Grigri, Cinch, and Eddy for RADS climbing and some positioning. But, and this is my personal opinion, for 'work', i.e. work positioning, etc., especially with a saw in hand, be it a handsaw or chain saw, I believe the device needs to have a lock off position. Only the Rig and I'Ds have this feature. I think that's important but again, that's just my opinion.

The panic feature on the Eddy and I'd is nice, but I really don't think it's nearly as important as a lock-off. We've used friction hitches for years without a panic feature and have done quite well without a panic feature.

In all fairness, the panic feature on the Eddy could be used as a lock-off, but you would have to go through a release position to get to the 'lock-off' part and that can be a bit touchy.

Let's also keep in mind that a lock-off can be 'knocked' off inadvertently, but even if that happens it doesn't go into a release mode, it's just not locked-off any more. Personal safety is our responsibility, but a device with a lock-off gives us one more layer of protection.