Oregon white Oak advice.

WillySieg

WillySieg

Location
Sweet Home, OR
I looked at an Oak today about 4' dhh with Codominate stems that appear to be trying to split apart. I am thinking it needs a hub and spoke steel cable and some weight reduction. I wondered about a through rod as well but not even sure how possible that would be on a tree this large. We don't see a lot of this kind of work in my area so I'm curious what you guys would do. I will attempt to post some pictures.
 
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I looked at an Oak today about 4' dhh with Codominate stems that appear to be trying to split apart.

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The support bmp costs $8.

But yes post the pics; nothing to lose!
 
Hey Willy,
I think you are definitely on the right track with weight reduction and a support system.
With bracing, one would probably be drilling into a cavity, potentially disrupting the tree's ability to keep the cavity compartmentalized. However, potentially this action could limit movement enough to allow the reaction wood to graft, allowing the tree to better start reinforcing itself.
Seems to me that's the trade off you're looking at.
Based only on looking at the photos, it seems to me like it's not worth it. It probably does have a cavity in there, which is probably well compartmentalized, and it's probably growing too slowly to have any chance of grafting. I would stick with weight reduction and also a support system. Talk to the client about a check up in 3-5 years.
Just my $.02. I'm nowhere near Oregon right now, but I've worked on a damn lot of Quercus garryana...
 
Thanks treewill. You believe there is a cavity between the 2 stems? Or somewhere else? I Seldem see much decay in Oak here. I hadn't thought about this being a problem but now I'm definitely concerned!
 
Whoa, no need to be overly concerned.
In my experience, codominant stems in garryanas usually develop a cavity given enough time. That's different from saying it's significant, and that's up to you to judge. My point is that whatever compartmentalized tissue exists between those stems you would have to drill through to install a rod. It's my guess (based only on looking at those two photos) that this is a bad trade off.
Oregon white oaks are excellent compartmentalizers and generally built to last. The tree is standing today, in spite of what some would call its 'defects'. Start with that in mind and work to make it safer for the client.
That's my thoughts.
 
Agree with mario and will. Does the bmp say to brace any open crack with a rod below the crack? i agree that wounding seems excessive. low tight cable might stabilize it enough. if it's only cabled high, twisting might cause failure of that union.

decay can be assessed with a narrow probe. and will btw, a support system can include bracing. the advantage of a rod(s) would be that it could close the crack during installation. bracing can be done above the crack to avoid decay.
 
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There's so much leverage advantage by going high, seems that drilling low near the union wouldn't be worth it.

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I agree it's going to need support up top. I was just thinking of bracing down low to help prevent the flexing and help with compartmentalizing.

I sure appreciate the input from everyone.
 
" I agree it's going to need support up top. I was just thinking of bracing down low to help prevent the flexing and help with compartmentalizing

You got it right: brace just above fork, cable high, as in the $8 BMP.
wink.gif
 
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I will be ordering that in the morning.
That will be one long bit! Is there a particular one you would recommend?

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Check out theother BMPs while you're at it maybe

re bits, TonD or Xman know more than i do.
 
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