? on what would be a good stopper knot

[Brocky]

The Diamond isn't real difficult to untie, as it is basically a Carrick bend with the ends tucked through the middle. But I wouldn't want to do it often.

 

[Jehinten]

I'm going to buy a radio remote choker bell or two and use them with my crane. This way I can set my picks down and release them without having to leave the tree and go untie them. I went employee-less recently and not going to hire again, 23 yrs was enough, this is the cheapest step in becoming faster while working solo. I've been using Amsteel 2 Plus Coated for many years now as my crane slings and I tie with them. I was thinking of bying one choker bell at first and the short range remote control transmitter. Then buy a new 5/8" amsteel 2 and also a thin 1/2" spider leg for balancing and I drew up a way to likely be able to attach both of those slings in one choker bell. If I like the choker bell, I might buy a second, but they are pricey, so I'll try one first. One bell is around $4100. Remote is $1100. My current crane amsteel 2 slings are overkill and too large, they are 1 inch.

https://www.diversifiedproduct.com/products/rigemroll/

no idea on the cost, but this just came up in another thread and got me thinking about your idea of not coming down to unsling the picks. Thought I'd pass it along.

 

[shankenstein]

Is an alpine butterfly too bulky? In my experience, that's a jammin' stopper knot.

I don't know if there's a name for it or not, but I have also been tying a figure 8 with several extra wraps. I only use it for managing the length of slings stored on my saddle, but I've looked at it before and thought it would make a good stopper as well. I think the extra wraps may also make it easier to untie.

 

[*useless info*]

I learned from knudeNoggin to watch the cross section stopping face proper,
rather than just larger profile in total, especially when most change to linear/ length to new stopper when stop depends the width and not length of the stopper!
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So for me the Oysterman / Ashley's Stopper mentioned for pure rope solution is best ; but adding hardware to stopper as better.
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Oysterman / Ashley's Stopper provides the sides and most circumference of area and BALANCED stopping power the whole way as no other.
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Taking just that a step further w/o tying to another device would be to reeve thru some non chafing washer that would allow all of stopper foot print and middle man that to all of your hardware footprint on receiving face.
.

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I think our knots only dream of being 85% efficient.
That is more like a fishing line lower (anymore) quote.
I think in terms of solid leg of line is 'pristine' state, anything less is less
>>only increase is another leg of same
>>manufacturers have it figured out.
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So if line is in good shape, no weakness or splice,
Usage and knots weaken/lower rope efficiency STRICTLY by
The geometry of being out of line / not Pure Inline
or really any deformity from.
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Bowlines come in around 70% efficiency seems
Overhand quotes run 45-55% >> thus average 50% thumb rule for all knots conservatively per this lowest efficiency , most deformed tightest curves knot
Fig.8 family notably longer more gracefully linear geometry quotes out higher.

But even then on fig.8 on bight finer prescriptions show to purposefully place Standing Part on the outside arc of the 8's for best efficiency, cuz purer straight to the Pure Inline mantra.
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So many rope tests, new breeds of ropes etc. hard to make sense of.
Personally in simplistic models think efficiency = cosine of deformity angle.
Just total deformity in more complicated models.
Reading that backwards brings
Bowlinec~70% efficiency , cosine of ~45 degrees
Overhand~50% efficiency, cosine of ~60 degrees
Fig. 8 eye~80% efficiency, cosine of ~30 degrees
All these cosines seem could likely be the amount of rope column angle persisting thru the deformities.
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Just like steel (or wood) only don't have to heat rope to 1000's degrees and leverage and pound to shape. No, rope makes it easy, just unload, form, then load to forge to hardened shape with same architecture considerations!
Our familiarity with rope is in it's unloaded, unforged state so fools eye!
Just as 1 that hasn't gotten the Touch Trees invite and only familiar with tree bones/lumber can take convincing that every green cut is a wound, as tree is alive etc.
.

 

[Kenny Sanchez]

Thanks man. I should be bringing my youtube channel back to life with action packed vids, product reviews and DIY modifications to things; this winter. Plus, finally get onto these many products I've had on paper for many years now. Hope to stay on the buzz too and convince some "old-timers" with a lifetime of experience to come back too.

Man i wished you did. Share the knowledge brother, I know I'll be watching all the time, heck I've watched every single video you have on your channel already. Like I've told you before I'll willing to pay you for all the data you have

 

[RBJtree]

@theXman, if your still around. You probably already know this. Richard Mumford aka Climbing Innovations has done a good deal of stopper knot break testing and published it on youtube. Looks like he does break testing for other people too.