OLDS-Overhead Lowering...

Read the specs on the OLDS. Find out the breaking strength.

Years ago when I found the BS I spent time emailing and talking with Carroll Bassett about my ideas for using it as a lowering device. He hadn't thought of the application in rigging trees. He gave his blessing to promote it's use.

Before I started talking about it in the arbo world and him selling a few more he was thinking of stopping production. I'm glad he didn't :)
 
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There are many ways (& reasons) to lower a limb solo. The video below uses a Belay Spool, a Rope Jack and a 'French' Prusik.

Solo Limb Lowering

1st came the Belay Spool for consistent friction;
2nd the Prusik for controlled lowering;
3rd the Rope Jack for pretensioning;
4th, hopefully, will be a release. For now, an un-trained groundy is still required.

"All things come to those who wait." - Violet Fane (Tout vient qui sait attendre)

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Why not butt tying the Branch, would be safer for you?
The use of the French Prussik makes the BS obsolet, you could do it with any Pulley (or even a Carabiner), something I do sometimes.

But I really like the Rope Jack, sweet idea!
Is there an own Thread about it anywhere? Would be nice to see it with more Rope friendly Clamps (maybe Ropegrabs?).

And thumbs up for the Belay Spool itself, thanks Tom!
Would be cool if Luke gets some indeed... ;D
 
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There are many ways (& reasons) to lower a limb solo. The video below uses a Belay Spool, a Rope Jack and a 'French' Prusik.

Solo Limb Lowering

1st came the Belay Spool for consistent friction;
2nd the Prusik for controlled lowering;
3rd the Rope Jack for pretensioning;
4th, hopefully, will be a release. For now, an un-trained groundy is still required.

"All things come to those who wait." - Violet Fane (Tout vient qui sait attendre)

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Why not butt tying the Branch, would be safer for you?
The use of the French Prussik makes the BS obsolet, you could do it with any Pulley (or even a Carabiner), something I do sometimes.

But I really like the Rope Jack, sweet idea!
Is there an own Thread about it anywhere? Would be nice to see it with more Rope friendly Clamps (maybe Ropegrabs?).

And thumbs up for the Belay Spool itself, thanks Tom!
Would be cool if Luke gets some indeed... ;D

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For that particular job, the tip tie prevented the drop from swinging through or damaging the tree below - a requirement.

For that particular job, the BS is what allowed the hitch to work. Dropping a full load on a single line with a hitch could likely lock-up and become un-releaseble. The combination made it possible to have both hands on the saw, make the cut from a safe location and still allow a releasable, controlled lowering.

For that particular job, the CMI's were 'rope-friendly' enough for the anticipated pre-loading. However, rope-grabs would also work for a Rope Jack - though they would be more 'fiddly' to work with.

And, yes there is a thread about the Rope Jack somewhere.

And, agreed, thumbs up for the Belay Spool itself, thanks Tom! ;D
 
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Thanks for that particular Answer! ;D

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I'm about to buy one of these BMS belay spools and I would like some opinions for the best 1/2 inch rope to pair with it.
I live in the land of small trees so this will be used for 90% of my rigging needs.
Also I think this thread deserves a bump for anyone that hasn't read it yet.
 
I used several different 16 strand, half inch ropes in the Spool. They all worked fine.

My suggestion though would be to get a half inch double braid though. Better rope for rigging.

Please keep us posted after you've dialed-in the OLDS/Spool into your repertoire.
 
This will sound weird, but a smaller diameter 1/2" line would be better than a larger one. You know what I mean, I think. When pulling it back unloaded, the thinner line will drag a little less.

I thought that somewhere there was a 7/16" double braid rigging line, but I couldn't find it when I recently looked at Wesspur, Sherrill, and Treestuff, online.

A very good tool for increasing production.

We use it for the groundie to catch and cushion the impact, then the climber to lower, allowing the groundie to land it.


A shorter rope is useful for such work. When the tail of the rope comes off the ground toward the climber, who is lowering the piece, its a lot easier to avoid tangling the rope in brush, and makes it lots safer if you are chipping as you go.
 
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The BS up top doesn't cause the same doubling effect on the top anchor, so you're working load is effectively larger than if you were conmparing a block up top and LD down low.
...

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Can you explain the physics of that please?
I just cant imagine how this would work, as theres still the same load in the rope on each side of the BS.
In my opinion it doesnt matter whats at the anchor point (frictionless pulley, real pulley, cambium saver, whatever).
 
Someone who used one might have a better answer (I just ordered mine). But as I recall it has to due with the angle of the rope you are holding. Lets call it 180 for the porty and 90-120 for the OLDS if rigged off the limb. The same would hold true if it was a pulley and you held the rope. Take a look here.

http://www.ropebook.com/information/vector-forces/angular-vector-forces

If I am wrong please correct me someone.

Frank
 
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...
The BS up top doesn't cause the same doubling effect on the top anchor, so you're working load is effectively larger than if you were conmparing a block up top and LD down low.
...

[/ QUOTE ]

Can you explain the physics of that please?
I just cant imagine how this would work, as theres still the same load in the rope on each side of the BS.
In my opinion it doesnt matter whats at the anchor point (frictionless pulley, real pulley, cambium saver, whatever).

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There is not the same load on each side of the BS. 15 lbs of pull is adequate to hold a 600 lb load. Friction ratio of 40:1. So the load on the anchor would be 615 lbs. Compare this to a block with base friction device. The same 600 lb load would result in 1200 lbs at the block's tie in point.
 
I was not even thinking about the fact that we were talking about a friction device Oro. My bad, I was trying to explain basic pulley math. I knew one of my elders would correct me, lol.

Frank
 
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