Agreed, but I’d argue that natural crotch rigging takes ALOT more skill. Friction is the biggest variable, which can change with the same point as it wears in. Where as a ‘modern’ rigging setup takes many of these variables out of the equation. 100# on a porty and block is just 100# loaded into the system (not factoring rope and rope wear).Most commonly used rigging ropes are three strand natural crotch 1/2inch. I have a 3/4 12 strand (I think?) and that rope comes in handy big time on large trees with space enough to lay down large branches.
I have all the nice gear to make a complex rigging system, and started out thinking natural crotch was what hacks used but it is just is not true. Most of the time it's just not necessary to use block/porty set up and puts, IMO, unnecessary loading onto the tree. so called "point of cut" rigging where all friction is aloft at the point of cut. 50% less load on the tree compared to a frictionless block and porty at the base set up. Would never use that set up in a dead tree and I am climbing and rigging those on almost a daily basis (gypsy moth dead oak trees in central MA). Plus, climber can take over the lowering rope once saw is away and limb has been brought to a stop. Porty can't get tangled up in limbs. Takes a bit to get used to it, but I'm not going back. Always keep an extra on hand you need to retire ropes much more often, but they are cheaper.
I'll add that I typically will use block/porty on pine/spruce for rope/sap reasons plus typically many limbs easier to retrieve rope and lower with frictionless. Everything has its place and I don't leave home without all the tools in the box...
I agree with you... natural crotch rigging does take alot of skill and experience. Especially when your making your own crotch in the wood when blocking down. It has to be just right because if it don't feed your going to snap your rope. If it's a good size piece. I actually enjoy natural crotch rigging. I'm good and fast. I've just wanted to try all this new rigging gear out. Well it is new to me.Agreed, but I’d argue that natural crotch rigging takes ALOT more skill. Friction is the biggest variable, which can change with the same point as it wears in.
But a technique worth knowing. I mostly use blocks for everything lowering related but there have been times when knowing how to groove a trunk and set lines saved the day. Natty crotch gone but not forgotten. That should be a bumper sticker.given that modern gear is so strong and available that technique should stay in retirement. Fraught with danger!
There was a climber accident mentioned here on Treebuzz, where the rope popped out of the V and the climber fell to his death.Really? What's dangerous about it. I've never had a problem doing it. I've been doing it for years. And before that watched our old climber that passed do it for year and years.
exactly, the double tie in rule should also cover anything that may whip the tree aroundIt's silly not to stay on spurs and flip line while lowering off a spar with a questionable technique.
I munter-hitch down spars on a pull line, occasionally, always with life- support.
Yes there are more variables and need to be capable of understanding them as you described. Groundies with finesse are a plus absolutely, but this is true for block/porty as well. Lucky to be working with guys that know what to do for the last few years.Agreed, but I’d argue that natural crotch rigging takes ALOT more skill. Friction is the biggest variable, which can change with the same point as it wears in. Where as a ‘modern’ rigging setup takes many of these variables out of the equation. 100# on a porty and block is just 100# loaded into the system (not factoring rope and rope wear).
natty crotch is dependent on diameters, bark texture, how open or narrow the union is, species, and more. I can recall one time on a locust removal, using the same union, by the end of the day the high point was a quick and smooth as a block. When it finally came down to the ground not only did the lowering line burn through the bark, but almost a whole rope diameter into the sapwood. Literally black and polished. With the larger wood and or faster swing runs clouds of smoke were visible on the gin.
I’ve done this many many times, but this was one of the funnest/Smoothest removals so it really sticks out in my mind.