notch triple thimble

Flex Abednego said:
I do a lot of natural crotch rigging, a wrap or two on the stub and let it run type stuff. But it would be nice to not pitch my lines so much. Do you ever use it that way?
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I don't do a lot of large rigging (my 5/8 line comes out only a couple times per year) but I use the thimble for just about everything now a days, my porta wraps collect dust most of the time. I've done the wrap around a nub thing before, and while it works, the thimble is way smoother to reset and use, doesn't hockle the rope and sap isn't a worry at all

Now the videos as promised

 
Son of a gun! That first video is exactly what i was wondering!!

Thanks for posting them up.. I've been looking all day for actual videos of them in use...

Now i seen you make a loop out of one, what about one where it's spliced like a dead eye.. just a long tail.. & then have a x ring loop/prusik for adjustability.? I can't think of why not, but I've also never had one of these.
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
Son of a gun! That first video is exactly what i was wondering!!

Thanks for posting them up.. I've been looking all day for actual videos of them in use...

Now i seen you make a loop out of one, what about one where it's spliced like a dead eye.. just a long tail.. & then have a x ring loop/prusik for adjustability.? I can't think of why not, but I've also never had one of these.
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I can't see any reason it can't be done that way
 
Running it through another ring setup like in the video, i wonder if it adds or subtracts friction as the bend radius is being decreased.. However at the same time there's more material for the rope to create friction on..

In other words I'm wondering if the three hole is dependant on the angle of the rope entering/exciting for maximum friction.

However i think by making it retreivable with the adding a prusik or making it the prusik would outweigh any negative affect.
 
Flex Abednego said:
I do a lot of natural crotch rigging, a wrap or two on the stub and let it run type stuff. But it would be nice to not pitch my lines so much. Do you ever use it that way?
Click to expand...
I’ve stopped using mine for sappy conifers, as sappy ropes cause lock up and can continue to do so on subsequent jobs. I’ve decided to go back to blocks for those. My absolute favorite application so far is dead tree rigging.
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
Running it through another ring setup like in the video, i wonder if it adds or subtracts friction as the bend radius is being decreased.. However at the same time there's more material for the rope to create friction on..

In other words I'm wondering if the three hole is dependant on the angle of the rope entering/exciting for maximum friction.

However i think by making it retreivable with the adding a prusik or making it the prusik would outweigh any negative affect.
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Don't really notice a difference in friction
 
theatertech87 said:
Don't really notice a difference in friction
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What about usage with sap, like Crimsonking was mentioning..

Either way, i just bought one sling with a Safebloc & I'm about to purchase a bunch of cordage to go with them.. I noticed you mentioned you don't use 5/8 much but I'm assuming your referencing your running line with that remark.. However, what is it that you.. are.. using for the triple thimble & that yellow ring & ring?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Jimmycrackcorn said:
What about usage with sap, like Crimsonking was mentioning..

Either way, i just bought one sling with a Safebloc & I'm about to purchase a bunch of cordage to go with them.. I noticed you mentioned you don't use 5/8 much but I'm assuming your referencing your running line with that remark.. However, what is it that you.. are.. using for the triple thimble & that yellow ring & ring?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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Can't speak to sap, I really try to keep my ropes clean and almost always use a block instead of natural crotching

As for the cordage used, it's 5/8 tenex on the thimble and a 5/8 double braid on the rings
 
theatertech87 said:
Can't speak to sap, I really try to keep my ropes clean and almost always use a block instead of natural crotching

As for the cordage used, it's 5/8 tenex on the thimble and a 5/8 double braid on the rings
Click to expand...

Ok cool.. thanks for the info.. i was about to go with 3/4 on the thimble just because it can take it but i don't want it to become cumbersome & if i want it to function as a prusik i don't think I'd want to go that big..

Do you know how long that prusik loop is?

Also how long was that ring & ring?

Both look perfect in length for what i generally need.

It's looks like your getting 8 wraps.. did you go longer than a typical 6 wrap length to be able to use it as girthed loop around a limb without it being too short?

I wish i knew of a way i could use it as a loopie as well as a prusik..
 
As far as sap goes, I don’t natty fork pines, but sap still gets on ropes, and if it runs through the triple, it can cause problems. Easily avoided by using a pulley instead.

Theatertech, what is your method to keep/clean pitch off your ropes? Always a good discussion.
 
Crimsonking said:
As far as sap goes, I don’t natty fork pines, but sap still gets on ropes, and if it runs through the triple, it can cause problems. Easily avoided by using a pulley instead.

Theatertech, what is your method to keep/clean pitch off your ropes? Always a good discussion.
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It's pretty simple really... Don't get it on it. I use pulleys and rings and ports wraps as much as possible to keep the rope clear of everything that's sappy. This concentrates most of the sap to just the end of the ropes where its attached to the pieces being rigged where it isn't an issue.

Washing machine with woolite also works, but I try and avoid it. Have some ropes that are 7-8 years old
 
Crimsonking said:
As far as sap goes, I don’t natty fork pines, but sap still gets on ropes, and if it runs through the triple, it can cause problems. Easily avoided by using a pulley instead.

Theatertech, what is your method to keep/clean pitch off your ropes? Always a good discussion.
Click to expand...
It's pretty simple really... Don't get it on it. I use pulleys and rings and ports wraps as much as possible to keep the rope clear of everything that's sappy. This concentrates most of the sap to just the end of the ropes where its attached to the pieces being rigged where it isn't an issue.

Washing machine with woolite also works, but I try and avoid it. Have some ropes that are 7-8 years old
 
August Hunicke put up a YouTube video not too long ago of a pine removal and it looked like he coated the freshcuts with some type of powder. I assumed it was an attempt to stop the pitch flow. Which as we know, even though you’re using a block or rings up top, the rope’s still going to touch all the freshly cut limb wounds and get pitch on it and gum up everything. I was /am curious what he used and if it worked @August Hunicke ?
 
chiselbit said:
August Hunicke put up a YouTube video not too long ago of a pine removal and it looked like he coated the freshcuts with some type of powder. I assumed it was an attempt to stop the pitch flow. Which as we know, even though you’re using a block or rings up top, the rope’s still going to touch all the freshly cut limb wounds and get pitch on it and gum up everything. I was /am curious what he used and if it worked @August Hunicke ?
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I think he put it in the comments of the video, but I'm 95% sure it was flour

and
are the videos in question
 
theatertech87 said:
It's pretty simple really... Don't get it on it. I use pulleys and rings and ports wraps as much as possible to keep the rope clear of everything that's sappy. This concentrates most of the sap to just the end of the ropes where its attached to the pieces being rigged where it isn't an issue.

Washing machine with woolite also works, but I try and avoid it. Have some ropes that are 7-8 years old
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How long have you been climbing?
 
theatertech87 said:
About 8 years, though mostly i spend my time in a bucket these days

There was a request for some measurements. The thimble sling is about 2 feet in length, and the ring sling is 6 1/2 feet
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Ahhhaaaaa! Yes yes.. that must have been me asking.. i may have PM'd you too.. not sure.. I actually just came back to the thread to see if i could get a grasp on how long yours is after the prusik wraps so i could replicate & get a average...As, I'm splicing mine as we speak..

So the follow up with lengths was perfect timing..!

So you said 2ft.. is that overall or Cordage after your first brummel?

Oh yeah.. one more thing..
I'm using 16mm-5/8ths on both peices like you.. Did the bury become problematic acting as a prusik seeing as it's going to be much bigger than the lanyard after it's all buried & tucked away..?

You know what i mean? Like typically you would use something smaller than the lanyard for your prusik/adjuster.. but in this case were beginning with same size, then increasing the size on the one that is typically supposed to be smaller..

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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Jimmycrackcorn said:
Ahhhaaaaa! Yes yes.. that must have been me asking.. i may have PM'd you too.. not sure.. I actually just came back to the thread to see if i could get a grasp on how long yours is after the prusik wraps so i could replicate & get a average...As, I'm splicing mine as we speak..

So the follow up with lengths was perfect timing..!

So you said 2ft.. is that overall or Cordage after your first brummel?

Oh yeah.. one more thing..
I'm using 16mm-5/8ths on both peices like you.. Did the bury become problematic acting as a prusik seeing as it's going to be much bigger than the lanyard after it's all buried & tucked away..?

You know what i mean? Like typically you would use something smaller than the lanyard for your prusik/adjuster.. but in this case were beginning with same size, then increasing the size on the one that is typically supposed to be smaller..

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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It's actually 22 inches (inside dimension) from brummel to the second brummel at the crossover/bury

I would've liked the cordage to have been disimilar sizes, and I actually bought some 3/4 to resplice the rings. However with a little use the cordage broke in and became supple enough it's not an issue

As for the bury being an issue it isn't really. Most of it sits where the "bridge" of the prussik is, rather than in the "coils". The tenex is also fairly supple after a bit of use.

If memory serves i did a locked brummel at the thimble end. Then the other end was a locked brummel with a single fid length tapered bury. Lock stitch in place and good to go. Nothing fancy (I'm not a professional splicer by any means but it was what made sense to me for the splice)
 
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