New RopeRunner?!?

Like I've said many times and regardless of all the other crap that is going on around us, this is a great time to be a tree climber! So many different ways and tools that can accommodate and often even encourage radically different climbing styles.

Climbers need to be aware that this diversity within individual climbing styles is the driving force of what each climber judges "the best" in any given climbing component.
100% agree. Someone on FB said the RR was the best device out there. I had to interject that no one device is the best, it is what might suit one's climbstyle over another. They are all good. Great to have choices. I carry 2 wrenches and 2 RRs to every job for the mere fact that I like choices.
 
Can I ask please if anyone has experience of the hex screw for the upper adjustment bollard on their RRP stripping out? Mine just suddenly did today using the bent hex wrench (did have a glove on) while hand tightening. Both sides seem tight but Rube Goldberg fix - I hammered some small pieces of hardwood into the spaces below the bollard to stop it from moving downwards (gotta use the thing on Monday). Any warranty advice maybe? I have no idea how to even get the bollard out now that one side is stripped, even if I could get a replacement one.
Get a hex tool one size up. Use a file and gently remove material from one edge til it fits very snug. Then use a small hammer and beat it in. Untighten, then replace the whole bollard. Use your ropewrench in the meantime. But be aware this might cause you to never use a RR again. Happened to me. A dailed in wrench/ rope combo is just magical.
 
Can I ask please if anyone has experience of the hex screw for the upper adjustment bollard on their RRP stripping out? Mine just suddenly did today using the bent hex wrench (did have a glove on) while hand tightening. Both sides seem tight but Rube Goldberg fix - I hammered some small pieces of hardwood into the spaces below the bollard to stop it from moving downwards (gotta use the thing on Monday). Any warranty advice maybe? I have no idea how to even get the bollard out now that one side is stripped, even if I could get a replacement one.
Go to your local hardware store and buy an appropriate size EZ Out screw extractor. You'll need to buy a handle to twist it, the right size drill bit and the extractor itself but they work great.
 
Go to your local hardware store and buy an appropriate size EZ Out screw extractor. You'll need to buy a handle to twist it, the right size drill bit and the extractor itself but they work great.
Thanks guys. The bollard needs to be made of better steel. I've tried other hex keys in case it was the shipped key that stripped a bit but it's the bollard that's gone. Weak design point in the RRP.
also make sure you ditch the wrench that comes with the RRP. Its junk and will strip your bollard adjustment screws.
Yep right on. I might just ditch the whole thing . . . . even if I get a replacement bollard (TreeStuff?), if another one were to strip in the field it's game over. I either completely trust something or I don't. Especially.life support gear. Cheers.
 
Get a hex tool one size up. Use a file and gently remove material from one edge til it fits very snug. Then use a small hammer and beat it in. Untighten, then replace the whole bollard. Use your ropewrench in the meantime. But be aware this might cause you to never use a RR again. Happened to me. A dailed in wrench/ rope combo is just magical.
So after work this week, will try the filing trick and bought an extractor thingy this AM - really, thanks again. Half a Sunday/ Family day shot with this. Also bought a new bollard from TreeStuff (hope it comes with two screws) - where it is right now works with Squir (creeps a tiny bit sometimes, but probably all it needs is more sap 'n dirt . . ). Am really tempted though, to epoxy the thing, christen it FrankenRunner and call it a day . . not the first time for epoxy on stuff. The cost of the parts to ship to Cantada will kill an ox.
Also, agree if you get a hitch dialled in and you're not having sap fest after sap fest, hitch systems are super - something strangely satisfying for me with hitch/ HC/ tether/ wrench. Kinda do it yourself frictionality.
 
Ghostice, if your extractor exercise comes up short, couple of other ways: file or dremel (use disk) flats on the outside of the screw head then use wrench or vice grips on the flats or dremel (disk) or hacksaw a flathead screwdriver slot across the head for a big screwdriver. if its stubborn do both at the same time
 
Ghostice, if your extractor exercise comes up short, couple of other ways: file or dremel (use disk) flats on the outside of the screw head then use wrench or vice grips on the flats or dremel (disk) or hacksaw a flathead screwdriver slot across the head for a big screwdriver. if its stubborn do both at the same time
Have done this also. Great mention.
 
Can I ask please if anyone has experience of the hex screw for the upper adjustment bollard on their RRP stripping out? Mine just suddenly did today using the bent hex wrench (did have a glove on) while hand tightening. Both sides seem tight but Rube Goldberg fix - I hammered some small pieces of hardwood into the spaces below the bollard to stop it from moving downwards (gotta use the thing on Monday). Any warranty advice maybe? I have no idea how to even get the bollard out now that one side is stripped, even if I could get a replacement one.
There was aj 9ssue with this initially. They had a semi-recall and sent out replacements with a better quality component. Supposedly they sent them out based on serial number. I got mine sent to me. I wonder if you can still get that information and replacement. It was kind of a big deal at the time this was happening to everyone.
 
I put my sandwich clams on it at EXPO. I feel dirty saying this but........it feels good, looks good, user friendly......Honestly I like it even though if I buy one I'm gonna strip down and whip myself for a good long while like in that Tom Hanks Illuminati documentary. The hypocrisy I'll be displaying will be unbearable. There isn't a pulley but I was told by Derrik Martin that he didn't feel like it was effecting performance for the average person. The pulley upgrade they are coming out with is for "comp mode" where ascent is critical. IDK I'd kinda like the pulley but whatever. It's pretty sexy. So sexy there was not a show price. Full price all the time, no breaks.
 
There was aj 9ssue with this initially. They had a semi-recall and sent out replacements with a better quality component. Supposedly they sent them out based on serial number. I got mine sent to me. I wonder if you can still get that information and replacement. It was kind of a big deal at the time this was happening to everyone.
Thanks Steve - I ordered a new bollard from Treestuff but kinda odd I haven’t heard back from them today yet. My wooden jammed workaround worked well today on the Squir in an elm. So far so good. Appreciate the note.
 
What's your preferred wrench/hitch/rope setup right now? I'm on a bdb for years (which is great) but I sometimes miss the hitch.
My favorite wrench setup which is kinda similar to what Paul is running.

AllGear 11.8 all poly, Notch adjustable wrench, ISC shorty tether, 26" Epi 9.2 hitch cord, and 4 wrap Petrocan (Michoacán turned 180 degrees). So smooth. Mechanical like slack tending. So safe and reliable. My security blanket.

IMG_4225.JPG
 
Any thoughts on the Arbsession Caralink 8.5" tether the way it's shown here? Is there any advantage to being able to unclip your biner and wrench from the HC Eccentric while still staying hitched in to life support with the lower biner, for example if you want to switch over to moving rope/ cambium saver? Or is the single malt talking to me again? Man there's so many options these days. I think it was Muggs made a +'ve comment on the CaraLink tether a while back.
 
I will throw in my lot with the Caralink v2 fans. I use it as shown there, but will sometimes use a grommet like @rico has suggested, in order to keep it in straighter alignment, but when I think I may do some switching back and forth between mrs and srs, I use it exactly as shown. I also like that I can switch it between my HC and zigzag as desired. I will also regularly climb to my desired TIP alternating my lanyard and main climb line, and then set up srs and throw on the wrench on that caralink.
 
Any thoughts on the Arbsession Caralink 8.5" tether the way it's shown here? Is there any advantage to being able to unclip your biner and wrench from the HC Eccentric while still staying hitched in to life support with the lower biner, for example if you want to switch over to moving rope/ cambium saver? Or is the single malt talking to me again? Man there's so many options these days. I think it was Muggs made a +'ve comment on the CaraLink tether a while back.
The Caralink is a lovely device that makes taking the wrench on and of much easier, but I have found that on a hitch based setup I much prefer the ISC shorty. For me the Caralink seems to put a little more friction in the system and just doesn’t gobble up slack like the ISC when my system is really singing. I also don’t care for the floppy nature of the Caralink as things can get misaligned sometimes resulting in a shitty ride.

I will say that the Caralink is the bees knees above a ZigZag and ZigZag users owe it to themselves to give it a try.
 
I love it for easy on and easy off. On a rescue it can be added one handed to provide the addition friction needed for a 2 person load or to use a rescuer lowered system from an anchor on the spar. I only have 1 hole to hit with the biner instead of 3. Quick removal all together. Bomber on the ZZ like Rico said and yes it does tent to rotate a little clockwise so the wrench shoots off to the 1-2:00 position. I havent noticed it much on ascent because I'm going back to a hitch based system for a couple reasons and I haven't dialed the hitch, size, rope, and type for the great system others already have. I'm still playing and finding that beloved drag on ascent great in the canopy vs the great on ascent and sucks in the canopy kinda experience. I was never a student of that. When ZZ1 came out I never looked back and as ZZ1 was becoming ZZ2 I was on the BDB. I've been on mechanicals constantly since. Anyway I love damn concept of it and it just kicks ass.
 
Apex on lowest friction setting, with caralink V2 tether is the bees knees for me. I never liked squeezing two legs of hitch cord, two legs of tether, and a pulley onto one krab, takes up a lot of real estate. Caralink is a bit floppy on the HC pulley, but it doesn't bother me. Love quickly switching it on and off the rope without touching the main biner. It makes the wrench modular rather than integral, which I like a lot. Also love reaching up, grabbing the wrench and jamming it down to release the hitch, when moving horizontal. Rico's idea with the non-locking DMM biner for the caralink is brilliant, makes it that much quicker and easier...
 
My favorite wrench setup which is kinda similar to what Paul is running.

AllGear 11.8 all poly, Notch adjustable wrench, ISC shorty tether, 26" Epi 9.2 hitch cord, and 4 wrap Petrocan (Michoacán turned 180 degrees). So smooth. Mechanical like slack tending. So safe and reliable. My security blanket.
I noticed that the Notch Flow Adjustable Wrench seems to have the same kind of hex nut fastener as the one that stripped on my RRP - does anyone know if these are susceptible to the same stripping of the hex milling? Just wondering . . . cuz . . . I'm kinda chicken . . . now . . . (filling with gear doubt and currently seeking counselling for shiny new gear thingy withdrawal).
 
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