new bigshot configuration
- Thread starter jeff_r
- Start date
- Location
- Canada
Me too, the new one is going to fail in our cold! Can you say product liability?
I thought I explained that in my 2 reviews!
I thought I explained that in my 2 reviews!
been trying the new version of the big shot out for a little over a month now tried shortening the length on the legs tried adjusting the way i shoot. bottom line this newest version the replacement version i just got from sherrill sucks. it shoots inconsistent; furthermore it's performance is lack luster at best. the reason people buy a sling shot is to have accuracy and power beyond what they have by hand. THE NEWEST VERSION OF THE BIGSHOT SUCKS BALLS!
- Location
- Louisville, KY
[ QUOTE ]
THE NEWEST VERSION OF THE BIGSHOT SUCKS BALLS!
[/ QUOTE ]
Stop beating around the bush, Jeff. Say what you mean.
THE NEWEST VERSION OF THE BIGSHOT SUCKS BALLS!
[/ QUOTE ]
Stop beating around the bush, Jeff. Say what you mean.
today i was finishing the mother of all cottonwoods. 120' tip. wednesday i shot at the crotch 10 or 15 times till i finally settled for a 70' crotch (thats a lot of throw knotting) that was the newest big shot. i got a second generation bigshot
replacement rubber from a friend wednesday night and installed it. it was colder this morning than wednesday; i hit the 120' tip in the first shot and it was a tight shot. the third gen bigshot has rubber issues. the fourth gen should have second gen rubber and a third gen pouch with a stiffer wider pull handle. by the way my love affair with the big shot just found new sparks
replacement rubber from a friend wednesday night and installed it. it was colder this morning than wednesday; i hit the 120' tip in the first shot and it was a tight shot. the third gen bigshot has rubber issues. the fourth gen should have second gen rubber and a third gen pouch with a stiffer wider pull handle. by the way my love affair with the big shot just found new sparks
- Location
- Canada
So what generation was it Tobe offered up as the replacement? I am NOT liking the NEW one at all.
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Just dropped in and discovered latest dialog. i should have all these variations somewhere around. This weekend i will find a high and fixed target to determine one way or the other and will try to report back first of week. will mount laser to pole.
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Hey guys,
Did as promised today (Sat. Dec 12th) and tested the new and old Big Shot types. Day was cloudy and cold (38-d) in G’boro, perfect for being outside. Sorry this detail is so long but what it took to describe.
Intent this day was to test 3 Big Shot versions with about 10 shots under equal conditions (target position, stance, shot force and projectile) to measure variances. I even utilized the yet-to-be-released Big Shot laser holder (see attached photo). In the end I am completely satisfied that all things were equal and fairly tested. I approached this project with relative anxiety, nervous that something obvious might have been overlooked in the product development phase of our last pouch upgrade.
To start I had 4 old head types (see attached photo) in addition to latest model (not in lineup). I tested 2 of the 4 pictured (for reason explained later). Listed below are the results of a 2 1/2-hour test where I shot 53 times, all but 9 using a Wichard trigger snap (9 were hand-launched). I felt the snap would minimize user error (and preserve my fingertips).
The target was measured at a respectable 95-ft in a tulip poplar (lirodendron tulipifera), firing in a 2 x 2-ft.window of a crotch (see attached photo). I stood 14-ft from trunk with target crotch pretty much above stump. Using 12-ounce Neo weights I rated each shot on a 1-10 scale, with 1 being misfire and 10 being perfectly within target window. I started with the Big Shot having a SEWN NYLON pouch as discussed earlier in this thread, then V-SHAPED version and finally a CURRENT model right off the shelf. FYI - the orange ribbons on the weights drag the projectile into proper orientation while eliminating need to constantly retrieve throw line. The way I always test.
The bad news for SherrillTree was that 4 out of 4 (12-oz) Neo weights blew seams with sidewalk impact (see attached photo). The good news is they were all early models (removed from stock) that were replaced by Weaver (the mfg). Other bad news was that 2 of these old Big Shot prototypes broke elastic that was apparently dry-rotted.
Honestly, I didn’t think my shooting would be this accurate. After a rough start I hit bulls-eyes or remained within very close range throughout the test. Notice that I shot the new version nearly twice as much as others and came back to SEWN NYLON model once warmed up.
Conclusion; for those who think the new sling is faulty, I am now convinced that either your technique needs review or perhaps the sling is applied crooked on the head. If the sling is crooked please call to let us know, otherwise might I suggest watching to keep your pull coming straight down the pole instead of perhaps toward your body. Mine shot flawlessly without a single flub or odd stray. Hope this helped.
Results - 1-10 scale with 1 being misfire and 10 being perfectly within target window
SEWN NYLON POUCH (available 2003-6, redesigned because pouch depth determined to occasionally deflect projectile) 4, 3, 2, 10, 9, 9, 7 (2-ft left), 9, 7 (1-ft left), 9, 10

V-SHAPED POUCH (available 2006-8, redesigned to shallower pouch) 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 9

CURRENT MODEL (2009) 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, (next 3 shots with 6oz) 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 9, 10, 
10, 10, 10, (started here launching by hand) 9 (left by inches), 8 (left by ft), 8 (left by ft), 9 (left by inches), 1 (flubbed), 9 (inches under), 9 (left by mm), 10, 10

SEWN NYLON POUCH (2nd round) 10, 10, 10, 7 (left 3-ft), 10, 9, 10
Did as promised today (Sat. Dec 12th) and tested the new and old Big Shot types. Day was cloudy and cold (38-d) in G’boro, perfect for being outside. Sorry this detail is so long but what it took to describe.
Intent this day was to test 3 Big Shot versions with about 10 shots under equal conditions (target position, stance, shot force and projectile) to measure variances. I even utilized the yet-to-be-released Big Shot laser holder (see attached photo). In the end I am completely satisfied that all things were equal and fairly tested. I approached this project with relative anxiety, nervous that something obvious might have been overlooked in the product development phase of our last pouch upgrade.
To start I had 4 old head types (see attached photo) in addition to latest model (not in lineup). I tested 2 of the 4 pictured (for reason explained later). Listed below are the results of a 2 1/2-hour test where I shot 53 times, all but 9 using a Wichard trigger snap (9 were hand-launched). I felt the snap would minimize user error (and preserve my fingertips).
The target was measured at a respectable 95-ft in a tulip poplar (lirodendron tulipifera), firing in a 2 x 2-ft.window of a crotch (see attached photo). I stood 14-ft from trunk with target crotch pretty much above stump. Using 12-ounce Neo weights I rated each shot on a 1-10 scale, with 1 being misfire and 10 being perfectly within target window. I started with the Big Shot having a SEWN NYLON pouch as discussed earlier in this thread, then V-SHAPED version and finally a CURRENT model right off the shelf. FYI - the orange ribbons on the weights drag the projectile into proper orientation while eliminating need to constantly retrieve throw line. The way I always test.
The bad news for SherrillTree was that 4 out of 4 (12-oz) Neo weights blew seams with sidewalk impact (see attached photo). The good news is they were all early models (removed from stock) that were replaced by Weaver (the mfg). Other bad news was that 2 of these old Big Shot prototypes broke elastic that was apparently dry-rotted.
Honestly, I didn’t think my shooting would be this accurate. After a rough start I hit bulls-eyes or remained within very close range throughout the test. Notice that I shot the new version nearly twice as much as others and came back to SEWN NYLON model once warmed up.
Conclusion; for those who think the new sling is faulty, I am now convinced that either your technique needs review or perhaps the sling is applied crooked on the head. If the sling is crooked please call to let us know, otherwise might I suggest watching to keep your pull coming straight down the pole instead of perhaps toward your body. Mine shot flawlessly without a single flub or odd stray. Hope this helped.
Results - 1-10 scale with 1 being misfire and 10 being perfectly within target window
SEWN NYLON POUCH (available 2003-6, redesigned because pouch depth determined to occasionally deflect projectile) 4, 3, 2, 10, 9, 9, 7 (2-ft left), 9, 7 (1-ft left), 9, 10

V-SHAPED POUCH (available 2006-8, redesigned to shallower pouch) 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 9

CURRENT MODEL (2009) 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, (next 3 shots with 6oz) 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 9, 10, 
10, 10, 10, (started here launching by hand) 9 (left by inches), 8 (left by ft), 8 (left by ft), 9 (left by inches), 1 (flubbed), 9 (inches under), 9 (left by mm), 10, 10

SEWN NYLON POUCH (2nd round) 10, 10, 10, 7 (left 3-ft), 10, 9, 10
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
*
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
When I replaced the bands one time I didn't keep them square AND one was bunched up more on the head. This lead to my shots going into the NW corner of my target area. I had to make windage corrections until the bands wore out. The next time I mounted the bands I made marks on the bands with a Sharpie to keep the center lines inline. Marks were made on the insert part of the tubing too. that assured that each side was even. Problem solved...straight shooting.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
Tobe,
We need larger pics.
My main beef is with the open design pouch. It is way too open, as many have said. There are times when a shot has to be made at quite an angle off vertical, which results in the shot pouch falling out. The best design would be somewhere between the old small pouch and the open one imo.
Maybe the new pouch that's designed to pinch the bag is good enough.....I'm willing to try one...
Also, consistency in the thickness and stretch of the tubing would be good. I've had several sets of tubing. One was so stiff that a release trigger had to be used every shot instead of just when normally needed.
I just stitched up an old pouch that had failed stitching. It works well now. Today, I'm installing new tubing on my first ever head (one of the old style pouches thank God) which brings me to the next suggestion. My first tubing failed at the metal arm ends. So, before installing the new rubber for the first time, years ago now, I filed the ends down to allow for a smoother and a bit more gradual transition as the stretching occurs.
Then, on the BS head that I fixed the pouch, I notice that it is also wearing at the metal tube ends first. It was given to me, and has never had the rubber replaced.
My third head is the new design, and the rubber just failed on it at the pouch/tube interface. I haven't cut the tubing off it yet to see if the ends are now tapered, but if they're not, do take this into consideration for current production!!
Last, when I order new tubing, I'll need one with longer tubing for the old style head....but will wait till I hear what the new pouch looks like...hopefully you make one as I've suggested.
We need larger pics.
My main beef is with the open design pouch. It is way too open, as many have said. There are times when a shot has to be made at quite an angle off vertical, which results in the shot pouch falling out. The best design would be somewhere between the old small pouch and the open one imo.
Maybe the new pouch that's designed to pinch the bag is good enough.....I'm willing to try one...
Also, consistency in the thickness and stretch of the tubing would be good. I've had several sets of tubing. One was so stiff that a release trigger had to be used every shot instead of just when normally needed.
I just stitched up an old pouch that had failed stitching. It works well now. Today, I'm installing new tubing on my first ever head (one of the old style pouches thank God) which brings me to the next suggestion. My first tubing failed at the metal arm ends. So, before installing the new rubber for the first time, years ago now, I filed the ends down to allow for a smoother and a bit more gradual transition as the stretching occurs.
Then, on the BS head that I fixed the pouch, I notice that it is also wearing at the metal tube ends first. It was given to me, and has never had the rubber replaced.
My third head is the new design, and the rubber just failed on it at the pouch/tube interface. I haven't cut the tubing off it yet to see if the ends are now tapered, but if they're not, do take this into consideration for current production!!
Last, when I order new tubing, I'll need one with longer tubing for the old style head....but will wait till I hear what the new pouch looks like...hopefully you make one as I've suggested.
I agree. The problem I've experienced with the new pouches is that you can't angle it. There's no two scenarios out in the field that are the same, sometimes your shooting straight up, and sometimes you must shoot an angle. The new pouches are fine for shooting up, but a high percentage of shots made on angles flop to the ground in front of you.
Like Roger said, one in between would be nice. The original like I've posted, just not as deep. It just about swallows the whole bag. What about making it only swallow half? Again, I've really never had any shooting problems with the old style, more so with the new.
I am using the hell out of the big shot now too, with the arrival of the Wraptor.
Like Roger said, one in between would be nice. The original like I've posted, just not as deep. It just about swallows the whole bag. What about making it only swallow half? Again, I've really never had any shooting problems with the old style, more so with the new.
I am using the hell out of the big shot now too, with the arrival of the Wraptor.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
I just cut the rubber off the new design head, and see that the shaft ends aren't tapered, as I suggested. A gradual taper over the last inch or so, of about 1-2 mm max works well at spreading out the stretch tension. Of course, it would add a step to the mfr process.
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
First, I misspoke that I had no flub in firing the new model because I clearly recorded one shortly after switching to hand-operated process. Recalled it being different model when writing.
RB,
* The new design IS the hybrid you're seeking as described above.
* Have never heard this about the rubber tubing being inconsistent in elasticity but certainly possible. Will ask manufacturer next week about that.
When making heads (for as long as I remember) they round ends to almost ball shape to minimize cut ability. Most of what we discover from tube breaks here are from operators dropping the end (arms down) instead of resting it on the ground (arms up). I do it myself sometimes out of impatience or jumping to grab throwline before bag goes too far. A rock's edge can definitely prick a hole or weak spot.
Not clear on your tapered end comment but rest assured new pouch/tube interface is best ever. We're not offering long tubing for old models because new will do, just install until you have 19-inches between "tube end" (at pouch) and horn end. Will attach image of off-the-shelf model used in test.
RB,
* The new design IS the hybrid you're seeking as described above.
* Have never heard this about the rubber tubing being inconsistent in elasticity but certainly possible. Will ask manufacturer next week about that.
When making heads (for as long as I remember) they round ends to almost ball shape to minimize cut ability. Most of what we discover from tube breaks here are from operators dropping the end (arms down) instead of resting it on the ground (arms up). I do it myself sometimes out of impatience or jumping to grab throwline before bag goes too far. A rock's edge can definitely prick a hole or weak spot.
Not clear on your tapered end comment but rest assured new pouch/tube interface is best ever. We're not offering long tubing for old models because new will do, just install until you have 19-inches between "tube end" (at pouch) and horn end. Will attach image of off-the-shelf model used in test.
Attachments
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Tobe_Sherrill
New member
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
Someone mentioned tubing elasticity inconsistency above. Having just spoken with manufacturer they say it's highly unlikely that there would be any humanly noticeable variance in elasticity within range of durometer spec. Said the more possible occurrence would be that someone in factory mistook tube wall thickness with one of our orders. Can the person who mentioned this pm me the color of the "Made in Mexico" sticker on the tubing for verification?
Looks like this thread may have played out and I'm merely talking to myself. Self I say, dagh I'm hungry, let's call it a day.
Looks like this thread may have played out and I'm merely talking to myself. Self I say, dagh I'm hungry, let's call it a day.
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