New BF2 bridge

Heres my new bridge. Old one was getting frazzled (especially around the clevis). I have thimbles for it, but left them off because they allowed the clevis to be able to rotate freely, sometimes those angles ended up on the harness webbing. I figured I could replace the bridge easily, but if the webbing was damaged, It would be a goner. Also, the knots prevent the biners from riding up on the hardware when side loading.
 

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I did the same with some PMI static rope but just tied double fish knots on the other side of the shackles instead knotting onto them.
My old bridge was worn pretty badly right in the center.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I did the same with some PMI static rope but just tied double fish knots on the other side of the shackles instead knotting onto them.
My old bridge was worn pretty badly right in the center.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've seen that done a couple of times now for bridge replacements.

Is there data that shows at what tensions different ropes 'pull through' various pieces of hardware?
 
My bridge is tied directly to the clevises. As opposed to through the clevis and stopper knotted. I prefer this method as it prevents my biners from sliding over the clevis. One thing to keep in mind when doing this is the tight angles of the clevis damaging the rope over time. It will be routinely inspected and replaced within a year.
 
That's a cool knot, I'll try it when I replace this bridge... I think the next one will be with 7/16" neopro.

There's no chance of the knots pulling through, they're waaay too big. I've watched them like a hawk for a couple of months now. There was some slippage at first and I ended up re-tying one but they're rock stable now. I'd hate to have to try and untie them. I figure I'll just cut it off when it starts showing wear.

My bridge is a good bit longer than R&T's so the biners don't ride up on the shackles... at least not that I've ever noticed. I know this... I like the way the biners slide a lot better on the rope vs. the webbing.

I love my BFII.
 
so what it the advantage:

the original bridge

versue

a rope bridge

i like the spliced eyes as i see the Scaffold knot tied with the tails in as a bother and not a clean setup.

can someone explain the good an evil for this?

thanks

jz
 
In answer to both Nick and JZ...

A spliced one would be nice and I expect I'll try one once I'm really down with my double braid and 16 strand splices... I'm not too excited about a 10mm beeline bridge though... I'm sure it's strong enough, just personal taste.

For me the rope bridge is better because it's much cheaper and, at least with this static kernmantle rope, the biners slide better... probably because it's a touch stiffer. The OEM bridge isn't evil, it's nice... I just wore mine out and don't want to pony up the cash for a new one... plus I was able to make the exact length I wanted.

I thought the knots would make a less than clean application myself but so far, I havn't had an issue with them. They don't get in the way of anything for me. I initially tried the same setup R&T uses but in that case, the knots did get in the way... a teeny bit. I went with the stoppers after seeing Tom D using them.

I can't tell you how frequently I look at them and the shackles because I've never used this knot in this application before. I have this thing about wanting to be absolutely confident in my gear so I can focus on the tree and climbing... I'm still adjusting to trusting this bridge. Intellectually I trust it... but when I'm clipping in I check it and the shackles close. It's actually had a good effect on my climbing safety because now I habitually do a visual check on my harness tie in, my friction rig and my TIP every time I go to put weight on it at height.
 

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