MS361
- Thread starter Bevis
- Start date
allmark
Participating member
allmark
Participating member
I seem tobe able to attatch thesepicteres from my computer filr by clicking browse and then dbl clicking the picture in my file. these were taken by someone else and savedto my computer. the pics i took and loaded to my comp dont show up on the attachment
allmark
Participating member
Mark just mentioned the size of the pics. I just looked at them and they are too large. ill try to resize them somehow.
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
Jeff,
What's the real benefit of the full wrap?
What's the real benefit of the full wrap?
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
Many will scoff at the following but here goes-
Full wraps are a West coast phenomenon. Terrain here is uneven at best, and often you'll have to fall a tree from one position because of slope, tree lean, obstacles, etc. (This, and our softwood timber is also why we run longer bars.) Based on having to fall from one stance, you may have to turn the saw over, so it's cutting clutch up. This is where you'd used the full wrap. In my avatar, I'm using my 361 clutch up with the full wrap. The opposite side of the tree was a brush tangle and slope, and no escape route, so I had to cut from where I am in the pic. And for me, as a side effect, it makes the saw more comfortable to carry, as I carry it on my right side, bar backwards. Also, a buddy of mine mills with a 660 with a full wrap. He likes it on the mill because when you lay it down (It's an Alaskan Mill.) it rests on the wrap handle and not on the saw itself. Each of my saws has a full wrap, and they feel natural to me. I cut with another buddy's 036 with a half wrap the other day, and I felt naked without the full wrap.
Jeff
Full wraps are a West coast phenomenon. Terrain here is uneven at best, and often you'll have to fall a tree from one position because of slope, tree lean, obstacles, etc. (This, and our softwood timber is also why we run longer bars.) Based on having to fall from one stance, you may have to turn the saw over, so it's cutting clutch up. This is where you'd used the full wrap. In my avatar, I'm using my 361 clutch up with the full wrap. The opposite side of the tree was a brush tangle and slope, and no escape route, so I had to cut from where I am in the pic. And for me, as a side effect, it makes the saw more comfortable to carry, as I carry it on my right side, bar backwards. Also, a buddy of mine mills with a 660 with a full wrap. He likes it on the mill because when you lay it down (It's an Alaskan Mill.) it rests on the wrap handle and not on the saw itself. Each of my saws has a full wrap, and they feel natural to me. I cut with another buddy's 036 with a half wrap the other day, and I felt naked without the full wrap.
Jeff
The first time I tried to assemble my 066 w. 36" bar it was a total p.i.t.a. cuz of the full wrap handle was in my scrench's way. I'm used to it now, but I too wondered why they put them there in the first place.
Is it considered a safe practice to turn the saw upside down like that? I've never had to. Not with the 066 anyway.
Is it considered a safe practice to turn the saw upside down like that? I've never had to. Not with the 066 anyway.
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
It's not really using the saw upside down. It's using the saw right hand side up instead of left hand side up. Typically, when making a falling cut, you'd be looking at your saw's starter rope side. I'm talking about making a falling cut looking at your saw's clutch cover side-thus "upside down" compared to how you'd usually use it.
<-----Like in my avatar to the left
Jeff
<-----Like in my avatar to the left
Jeff
- Location
- Winthrop, WA
That full-wrap 361 is SICK! I really like the fullsize clutch cover, too. I've set up 360's like that before using stock 044 bars and clutch covers, and really liked the results. I like the 361's a lot, except for the seemingly excessive suspension. By the way, did you grind out the clutch cover or saw to get the clutch cover to sit flat? Does it look and perform well?
That's pretty funny how people don't know what's so good about a full-wrap. Personally, I have no idea why you would have a saw without one.
I had a USA Handlebars full wrap on my old 066, and it was even better ergonomics and balance (especially on the clutch side) than the stock bar, but I had clearance problems with the brake. Anybody else have that problem?
That's pretty funny how people don't know what's so good about a full-wrap. Personally, I have no idea why you would have a saw without one.
I had a USA Handlebars full wrap on my old 066, and it was even better ergonomics and balance (especially on the clutch side) than the stock bar, but I had clearance problems with the brake. Anybody else have that problem?
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
Thanks Tim. I too love the full wrap. It's common amongst us West Coast guys. Each of my saws, other than my 200T has a full wrap. I've not had any problems with brake handle clearance on either my 361 or 460, both of which have the USA bars on them. I agree that they feel better than the factory ones. My 460 had a factory wrap on it, but I changed it out for the USA. I also like the squared look of the USA bars. They look kinda like a throwback to the old 056 full wraps.
I did have to do some metal work on the cover itself to get it to fit flush. It took about 20 minutes with a file and a Dremel. Fits like factory now!
Jeff
I did have to do some metal work on the cover itself to get it to fit flush. It took about 20 minutes with a file and a Dremel. Fits like factory now!
Jeff
- Location
- Longmont, CO
I am wondering if anyone uses the MS361 in bigger wood for removals? Or, are most of you sticking with a MS260? I see that the MS361 is about 2lbs. heavier than the MS260. That can make a difference when climbing with a chainsaw attached to your hip.
However, I currently I use a MS460 for large wood in a removal. /forum/images/graemlins/bangtard.gif
I am a little guy and it takes a lot out of me when I use it in the tree. I need the MS361 or MS260Pro.
However, I currently I use a MS460 for large wood in a removal. /forum/images/graemlins/bangtard.gif
I am a little guy and it takes a lot out of me when I use it in the tree. I need the MS361 or MS260Pro.
Mangoes
Participating member
- Location
- Greater Toronto Area
How little is little? I'm 155lbs and I jump from the 200T on my removals directly to my sweatheart 046Mag. After that the option lays only with a 192 or a 660. If it works for you buy a 20" bar for the 460 and carry it on the truck for those times where the weight savings a worth the time to switch bars.
- Location
- sunny Madison, WI
Weight savings, plus it's a lot easier to drive a 20-24" bar when you are aloft!
I'm a little guy too (5'7" 150 lbs), with a few wrestling matches with a 046 and 440 under my belt.
I'm a little guy too (5'7" 150 lbs), with a few wrestling matches with a 046 and 440 under my belt.
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
I'm a little guy too at almost 6'4" and 210 /forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif, but I still do like Mangoes and jump to the right saw for the job. To me, it's easier to rip through the wood quicker than to sacrafice with a slower saw to save a pound. I'm not a fan of standing on spurs and runnin the 088, but I will do it when I have to. It's more fatiguing to me to stand up there longer than to wheel the big saw around.
- Location
- Longmont, CO
Yeah, I am 5'-8' only 150lbs. A "little guy" compared to many.
Mangoes: I too use a 20" bar on my MS460 and put a 24" when necessary. Maybe I am just wining or looking for an excuse to buy a new chainsaw. /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Mark: I agree with using the "right saw for the job." Makes me wonder why I was considering a smaller saw in the first place? When I see buddies cutting with a lighter saw (lacking in power)I just think, "Lighter must be better." After all, it seems to be conventional. I think you both talked me out of buying a smaller saw. I'll stick to my MS200T and the MS460! /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Maybe it is time to cross train and work out other areas of my body to increase body mass and strength? /forum/images/graemlins/sumo.gif
Mangoes: I too use a 20" bar on my MS460 and put a 24" when necessary. Maybe I am just wining or looking for an excuse to buy a new chainsaw. /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Mark: I agree with using the "right saw for the job." Makes me wonder why I was considering a smaller saw in the first place? When I see buddies cutting with a lighter saw (lacking in power)I just think, "Lighter must be better." After all, it seems to be conventional. I think you both talked me out of buying a smaller saw. I'll stick to my MS200T and the MS460! /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Maybe it is time to cross train and work out other areas of my body to increase body mass and strength? /forum/images/graemlins/sumo.gif
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
I also use a 361 sometimes. I run the 18" bar on them.
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
- Location
- WA, but AK is home.
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