Matching cuts, Back release, Side leaner

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Whoa, seems like you may have taken offense where none was meant.


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SST, which part of my post gives you that impression? You are reading something that just isn't there. One of the reasons I rarely get involved nowdays.

I made a generalisation, because the technique itself (as you see it on the video) doesn't really warrant that big analysis IMO....at least not much more than what I've said already. It is what you make of it.

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I wasn't suggesting that you'd cut it up too high, but for someone with lesser saw skills, they might be more prone to this happening.

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I aim/word my posts above entry level, so a certain amount must be assumed, considered or figured out to a certain extent....but of course you should still speak up if something I've said isn't clear or doesn't make sense.

All I would suggest that you try the cut, for real....big or small tree with a lean and see how that works for you. Good luck
 
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That was a good learning vid. Was asking about the angle of the release cut( I do the cut straight in).



was wondering the same on the leaner with the thick chunks.Question for you or anyone else, if you gut the vertical then the wedge shape with the saw. Or is the width of the bar to wide to make that cut? Or this how wide do you make the chunk at the end of the the wedge for holding wood?

All in all nice vid. I have a couple of spars that need knocking down will use that info thanks for posting keep up the good work.

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Tarporing, I dont know if its just too early for me, or you rushed your post or what, but I just dont know what you're talking about. I've read it 3 times now. Sorry
 
Always enjoy your vids Reg. Nice to see you are a Canadian now
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I think I like watching people work more so than doing the work myself. Swing on over to Ontario for awhile, I'm sure I can find a Beech for you to take down
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With the side leaner do you use an angled back cut? Not sure if that makes sense. The width of the hingewood is wider on the one side than the other. I'm sure there is a term for that but I can't remeber right now. It looked like it fell off the hinge a bit at the end. Whatever it fell in the opening
 
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Where's with the angled cut I can just just reach out and rest the saw in the kerf and get a better view of whats happening up top at the same time.


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That makes a lot of sense..
 
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Always enjoy your vids Reg. Nice to see you are a Canadian now
tongue.gif
I think I like watching people work more so than doing the work myself. Swing on over to Ontario for awhile, I'm sure I can find a Beech for you to take down
wink.gif


With the side leaner do you use an angled back cut? Not sure if that makes sense. The width of the hingewood is wider on the one side than the other. I'm sure there is a term for that but I can't remeber right now. It looked like it fell off the hinge a bit at the end. Whatever it fell in the opening

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If it was planned then then it should be stronger on the nearside....but I cant remember to be honest, nor make it out from that brief glimpse at the end. A wide notch would've obviously kept it on the hinge till the death, we didn't want that. Thanks
 
I've experimented with triangulating hinge wood. And found it works well on most conifers, but not on hardwoods. Particularly eucs, upon which its downright foolish to even try.

Over all I can see why the practice is frowned upon in all types of wood whether alive or dead.

Never heard a pro logger recommend it neither.

jomoco
 
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I've experimented with triangulating hinge wood

jomoco

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I was refering to leaving the hinge a little stronger on one side Jon, but not so severe that it looks like a triangle. We talking about the same thing?
 
When I was cutter I used a tapered hinge all the time to get a side leaner to fall without a wedge. The only real advantage I see to cutting extra wood on the compression side of the hinge is to make the tree easier to tip. That said I don't see any reason to use it in an urban setting where pull lines are so easily set.
 
Try a tapered hinge in a big euc and watch what happens!

Preferrably through a telephoto lense!

Works somewhat in conifers though!

jomoco
 
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I think you are, I've experimented too, but found it to be unreliable.

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Ok. Ive done it for years also, on all kinds, out of habit as an insurance policy if you will. I could neither prove then nor now whether it actually made that much or any difference at all....because you can never fell the exact same tree twice, right.

Only once when I was 18 that I was felling a willow spar and unintentionally left it stronger on one side. As two guys began to pull it over it was looking good for about 30 degrees and then took quite a dramatic change of direction towards the stronger hingewood and ripped straight through the very wires we were trying to clear the tree away from. I was astonished and at that point and just wanted the ground to swallow me up.
 
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Try a tapered hinge in a big euc and watch what happens!

Preferrably through a telephoto lense!

Works somewhat in conifers though!

jomoco

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Tapered hinge, I knew it was called something.

Ive worked on hardwoods for the vast majority of my time in the trees also Jon, even did a couple of years exclusivley on Eucs during that period....the last year has been soley conifers. I've done my share of both good and bad cutting with both intentional and unintentional tapered hinges without incident....apart from the willow I mentioned earlier. Interesting to hear your thoughts on it, thanks for speaking up.
 
A feeling of embarrassment so acute one seriously considers becoming willow fertilizer?

It passes quite quickly my good fellow I assure you!

I trust you made form regardless Sir Reginald?

jomoco
 
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A feeling of embarrassment so acute one seriously considers becoming willow fertilizer?

It passes quite quickly my good fellow I assure you!

I trust you made form regardless Sir Reginald?

jomoco

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It bothered me for a good while actually Jon, in fact I can still see that change of direction now and feel the blood drain from my head. In time, yeah it got superseded by the 'near' misses and gambles that could've been death or disaster during that period. Clearly my skills were improving slightly.
 
The closest I've come to that degree of astonishment and dismay was the final day of completing a multi hundred tree removal contract for the power company.

I had roped the last serious removal down smoothly, like a relentless methodical clock efficiently completing a serious challenge.

Revelling in my victory over danger, I was removing my boots as my younger brother dropped the last little skinny euc fastigiates in the ROW onto a chain link fence away from the power lines. Exactly as I'd instructed him to do before sitting down to remove my boots.

The trees were little skinny dinks dinks that weighed nothing and could be easily persuaded to go any which way simply by leaning against them see?

Keeping my eye on them I watched as my brother cut a fastigiates with one hand while pushing with the other using a climbsaw.

The tree was falling away from the power lines and towards the chain link fence exactly as it should when one of the rookie grunts on my crew ran in shouting it's going to land on the fence, and over powers my brother pushing with one hand, and into the power line, which of course slapped the line next to it, shorted, melted, and landed on the road with high traffic zooming along it in both directions.

There I was in the middle of the street like a ridiculously ludicrous traffic cop stumbling about with his boots untied shouting orders on an adrenaline high usually found at higher altitudes!

I took the heat, and accepted the fact that I was indeed responsible for counting my chickens before they'd hatched properly.

My bad.

Jomoco
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As Reg said it is difficult to know if it helps or not since it is a one shot deal. I have seen a few trees with a substantial lean begin to fall in the right direction then tear off the hinge. There was never any major damage except to my ego.

This lead the to think that leaving slightly more wood on the tension side would help to keep the tree going in the direction of the notch and not the lean. It would seem to me that the wood on the tension side would be doing the majority of the "work" to keep it going the right direction. On a tree that is relatively plum it really doesn't seem to matter how the hingewood is cut.... within reason.
 
Understanding the downward forces on the hinge is a good reason to leave your hinge wood uniform from stem to stern.

When the skinny tapered end of the hinge fails and sits down onto the stump, it's almost like a zipper unzipping initiating failure far too soon across the entire hinge.

Maybe that's a du problem eh?

jomoco
 
Seems to make sense to me. I guess it depends what causes the "unzipping", does it start at the compression side or the tension side. I dunno, no high speed cameras on the job site usually.

It's not very often I'm dropping side leaners anyway, 99% of the time its a uniform hinge...eh.
 
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Understanding the downward forces on the hinge is a good reason to leave your hinge wood uniform from stem to stern.

When the skinny tapered end of the hinge fails and sits down onto the stump, it's almost like a zipper unzipping initiating failure far too soon across the entire hinge.

Maybe that's a du problem eh?

jomoco

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I guess if you go too skinny Jon then its your own fault. I think the aim is to not to make (weaken) the comression side skinnier than normal, but more to make the tension side thicker than normal....the skinny side shouldn't prematurely fail at that if the face is matched up as it should be.
 
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