Matching cuts, Back release, Side leaner

sorry Reg long days little sleep. Was wondering about the thickness of the wood left in the wedge cut. Just a different technique that you are doing for a directional felling cut. Still good vid helpfull .
 
Toparboring, your talking about the third tree, Side Leaner with guy line correct? Reg, I haven't seen you do that cut before (at least not with that detail in HD), I'm referring to the face cut at 13:00. Looks like a one inch gap after making the humbolt, then you did a vertical plunge cut to be able to hammer out the "chunks" right???

Q: Does that one inch drop create any type of launching effect? And/or is it because you have the guy line installed??

Q: Did you leave that small square piece of wood at 13:45 to strengthen the low side, sort of hold the tree up longer???

Q: Why the really steep 2nd humbolt cut??? Sometimes I do that to ensure the tree drops off the stump.

Thanks.
 
Yeah that is the tree thanks Bixler. Had a day off and am able to re read what I have added and yes confusing sorry. Reg I have watched your vids and that is a cut with detail, and was just wondering about it.


With cutters around here there are good ones and well there are some you just close your eyes and pray. I try to keep up with good clean cuts and doing them with safety in mind. Any new cuts like that one on a leaner looks safer and cleaner. Thanks Reg for posting this vid. keep up the good work. How do you like life across the pond?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Toparboring, your talking about the third tree, Side Leaner with guy line correct? Reg, I haven't seen you do that cut before (at least not with that detail in HD), I'm referring to the face cut at 13:00. Looks like a one inch gap after making the humbolt, then you did a vertical plunge cut to be able to hammer out the "chunks" right???

Q: Does that one inch drop create any type of launching effect? And/or is it because you have the guy line installed??

Q: Did you leave that small square piece of wood at 13:45 to strengthen the low side, sort of hold the tree up longer???

Q: Why the really steep 2nd humbolt cut??? Sometimes I do that to ensure the tree drops off the stump.

Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry for the delay, one thread at a time is all I can handle.
No I don’t believe it has a launching effect so to speak. A shallow and narrow face with a clean break at the hinge is probably the best way to launch a tree forward....so the tree is released from the stump while in a more forward motion rather than a downward one that you get with a deep wide notch.

The ‘gap’ can supposedly allow the hingewood to bow as opposed to simply break and pull out, so one can expect better holding for that reason.

The snipe allow the for continued direction of fall, or to an extent (especially on small trees and spars) a change of direction if that’s what you want to happen. I also do it so the hinge separates clean due to the extra leverage created, as otherwise it mght not so much with a block style face.

For a more thorough and in-depth analysis with countless visual examples, I would highly recommend Jerry Beraneks Working climber series 3.

Tarporing, yes I’m doing ok thanks. Beautiful place, much safer and all that. The work was quite a contrast to what Ive been used to at first, but now it’s normal after being here a year. Mainly removals, but we do prune (tip reduce) lots of conifers also, mainly to reduce the risk of individual limbs breaking off and causing damage down below. Some thinning/windfirming also. Alot less rigging than previous places I’ve lived, with ziplining often the quickest option as we have so much height in our favour. The up and down type climbing (conifers) has definitely upped my conditioning as opposed to the in and out type trees I was working on back home and elswhere. Thanks
 

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