Lock Jack
- Thread starter ezekiel
- Start date
TC
Participating member
There is some info on lockjacks in various threads in the rant and rave forum, here's one of them.
Its a treebuzz classic!
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=95203&an=0&page=1#95203
Its a treebuzz classic!
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=95203&an=0&page=1#95203
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
dont get the spyderjack, it does not attach midline, ask removal wizard here on the buzz, he only climbs on lockjacks, if you ask anyone else they will tell you to buy more prusik cordage blah blah blah
Thanks for the link Grover. The thing is, I love ropes and knots, I am always messing around and trying new knots. I might miss that, instead I can get some cool pullys (hitchclimber)and some ice. I just bought an eye and eye beeline and am loving it. I guess for now my money will be better spent on other goodies. Maybe I'll get an LJ if I get some big contracts this year. I would like to try one first anyway. Thanks to all for your input and I will continue to watch for more. Climb safe!
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
if you are new to eye to eye split tails and havent already tried the ice, i would recommend you didnt, it doesnt seem to last very long and i dont like how loosely it is woven, bee line does wonders and last a while, imo
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
You dont have any pictures of that or links to some good pictures of that combo Tyler? I would love to see it.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
I know 2 guys using lockjacks and they both like'em but they don't like the price of the replacement clutches they have to buy more often than they'd like. I'm told Lockjacks and pine sap don't go well together.
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
i have heard that the clutches start to give a bit after only a few months, i used to think that lock jacks were the answer to all of my problems but there are many different, cheaper solutions than using a lockjack, might not look as pretty but they are still effective none the less
- Location
- Clarksville, TN
If you climb 7/16" rope and have a friend that climbs 1/2" rope, you can fix the "creeping" by switching clutches and lending it to your friend to climb on for a while (until it creeps on him), then swap the clutch back. I've found that for some reason, running the different diameter rope through and alternating the 2 clutches will correct the problem.
Capice?
Capice?
I am always interested in posts regarding the Lock Jacks. I use the Lock Jack Sport. And I have to say the only thing that has reduced my work load more is the Big Shot itself. I am actually amazed when I hear of someone using one and either not liking it or complaining about it's purchase price and upkeep. I am very comfortable with all of the knots and hitches. But there is no tieable hitch that self-tends slack like the Lock Jack.
It does have limitations. It would be foolish to regularly use it in a high-abrasion environment; i.e., rain/sand. Pitch is not a problem as it cleans up easily. It's biggest limitation would be the climbing style or experience of the user.
My preferred set up is run through a Rock Exotica Swivel Pulley, tied in to an adjustable false crotch. This creates virtually zero friction. So if you make a mistake, it will be magnified with some pucker factor thrown in. Therefore this would be a dangerous set up for a low time climber or somebody who has not used the Lock Jack in a more traditional manner.
However, this does allow the Lock Jack full slack-tending abilities. No matter where I am at in the tree it seems that I never have to tend the slack, the Lock Jack has taken care of that step.
As far as costs go, this is nothing. I spend more on chainsaws and chains than clutches for the Lock Jack. It's just a business expense.
Because of the variance in tree work there will always be the time for hitches. But I believe there is also a time for the Lock Jack.
D Mc
It does have limitations. It would be foolish to regularly use it in a high-abrasion environment; i.e., rain/sand. Pitch is not a problem as it cleans up easily. It's biggest limitation would be the climbing style or experience of the user.
My preferred set up is run through a Rock Exotica Swivel Pulley, tied in to an adjustable false crotch. This creates virtually zero friction. So if you make a mistake, it will be magnified with some pucker factor thrown in. Therefore this would be a dangerous set up for a low time climber or somebody who has not used the Lock Jack in a more traditional manner.
However, this does allow the Lock Jack full slack-tending abilities. No matter where I am at in the tree it seems that I never have to tend the slack, the Lock Jack has taken care of that step.
As far as costs go, this is nothing. I spend more on chainsaws and chains than clutches for the Lock Jack. It's just a business expense.
Because of the variance in tree work there will always be the time for hitches. But I believe there is also a time for the Lock Jack.
D Mc
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
[ QUOTE ]
I am always interested in posts regarding the Lock Jacks. I use the Lock Jack Sport. And I have to say the only thing that has reduced my work load more is the Big Shot itself. I am actually amazed when I hear of someone using one and either not liking it or complaining about it's purchase price and upkeep. I am very comfortable with all of the knots and hitches. But there is no tieable hitch that self-tends slack like the Lock Jack.
It does have limitations. It would be foolish to regularly use it in a high-abrasion environment; i.e., rain/sand. Pitch is not a problem as it cleans up easily. It's biggest limitation would be the climbing style or experience of the user.
My preferred set up is run through a Rock Exotica Swivel Pulley, tied in to an adjustable false crotch. This creates virtually zero friction. So if you make a mistake, it will be magnified with some pucker factor thrown in. Therefore this would be a dangerous set up for a low time climber or somebody who has not used the Lock Jack in a more traditional manner.
However, this does allow the Lock Jack full slack-tending abilities. No matter where I am at in the tree it seems that I never have to tend the slack, the Lock Jack has taken care of that step.
As far as costs go, this is nothing. I spend more on chainsaws and chains than clutches for the Lock Jack. It's just a business expense.
Because of the variance in tree work there will always be the time for hitches. But I believe there is also a time for the Lock Jack.
D Mc
[/ QUOTE ]
although hitches may not be as clean as the lockjack, there are many different tactics and strategies you can use to have a somewhat self tending climbing system while using friction hitches, one of which has been discussed here on treebuzz. i will admit that the lockjack is a nice tool but i can understand why most grimace at the price, especially when hitch cordage is so much cheaper and when there are self advancing climbing techniques readily available. if my beeline starts to head south, all i need to do is make another tail for only a couple of bucks
I am always interested in posts regarding the Lock Jacks. I use the Lock Jack Sport. And I have to say the only thing that has reduced my work load more is the Big Shot itself. I am actually amazed when I hear of someone using one and either not liking it or complaining about it's purchase price and upkeep. I am very comfortable with all of the knots and hitches. But there is no tieable hitch that self-tends slack like the Lock Jack.
It does have limitations. It would be foolish to regularly use it in a high-abrasion environment; i.e., rain/sand. Pitch is not a problem as it cleans up easily. It's biggest limitation would be the climbing style or experience of the user.
My preferred set up is run through a Rock Exotica Swivel Pulley, tied in to an adjustable false crotch. This creates virtually zero friction. So if you make a mistake, it will be magnified with some pucker factor thrown in. Therefore this would be a dangerous set up for a low time climber or somebody who has not used the Lock Jack in a more traditional manner.
However, this does allow the Lock Jack full slack-tending abilities. No matter where I am at in the tree it seems that I never have to tend the slack, the Lock Jack has taken care of that step.
As far as costs go, this is nothing. I spend more on chainsaws and chains than clutches for the Lock Jack. It's just a business expense.
Because of the variance in tree work there will always be the time for hitches. But I believe there is also a time for the Lock Jack.
D Mc
[/ QUOTE ]
although hitches may not be as clean as the lockjack, there are many different tactics and strategies you can use to have a somewhat self tending climbing system while using friction hitches, one of which has been discussed here on treebuzz. i will admit that the lockjack is a nice tool but i can understand why most grimace at the price, especially when hitch cordage is so much cheaper and when there are self advancing climbing techniques readily available. if my beeline starts to head south, all i need to do is make another tail for only a couple of bucks
I understand what you are saying in regards to the friction hitches and cord. As I stated earlier I am very familiar with all the friction hitches and their setups. And use them when the situation requires.
I am currently using a Velocity with a bee-line from Sherrill generally with a VT, sometimes with a distal. I have a slack-tending pulley and I use a pantene. This is a sweet setup and light years ahead of the Tautline hitch, tail-tied method but it still doesn't come close to the Lock Jack.
Because I prefer eye-splices on my bee-line I buy from Sherrill and they cost about $28/each. Clutch for the Lock Jack costs $30. They last me about the same amount of time. (Primarily probably because I use the bee-line in harsher conditions than the Lock Jack.)
It is always interesting to find what some people consider reasonable or unreasonable expenses. I don't buy the cheapest of anything. Generally, you get what you pay for. I can do an excellent job on a tree with just an old 3 strand rope and a handsaw. I am SO GLAD things have progressed beyond that. I like my saddle; I love my little micro-pulleys and redirects; friction savers; auto-locking carabiners; 11 mm, smooth-as-silk climbing line; a little Silky handsaw and polesaws that rival the cutting ability of the old chainsaws.
I am willing to spend the money on whatever will make my work more enjoyable. I love climbing trees and plan on doing so as long as possible. Innovations such as these help.
D Mc
I am currently using a Velocity with a bee-line from Sherrill generally with a VT, sometimes with a distal. I have a slack-tending pulley and I use a pantene. This is a sweet setup and light years ahead of the Tautline hitch, tail-tied method but it still doesn't come close to the Lock Jack.
Because I prefer eye-splices on my bee-line I buy from Sherrill and they cost about $28/each. Clutch for the Lock Jack costs $30. They last me about the same amount of time. (Primarily probably because I use the bee-line in harsher conditions than the Lock Jack.)
It is always interesting to find what some people consider reasonable or unreasonable expenses. I don't buy the cheapest of anything. Generally, you get what you pay for. I can do an excellent job on a tree with just an old 3 strand rope and a handsaw. I am SO GLAD things have progressed beyond that. I like my saddle; I love my little micro-pulleys and redirects; friction savers; auto-locking carabiners; 11 mm, smooth-as-silk climbing line; a little Silky handsaw and polesaws that rival the cutting ability of the old chainsaws.
I am willing to spend the money on whatever will make my work more enjoyable. I love climbing trees and plan on doing so as long as possible. Innovations such as these help.
D Mc
- Location
- Longmont, CO
I liked the idea of one. I really wanted one too. So, I tried one and didn't like it. I am glad I didn't.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
I have nothing against a lockjack... probably will own one someday but I don't like my rope to self tend.
Sometimes a split tail will glaze and the rope starts self tending and it pisses me off so I ditch the cord. When I draw slack in my loop I want it to stay drawn so I can descend or traverse or whatever. It's a drag to need slack and feel that knot go tight at just the wrong time.
That's one of the reasons I like HRC, no glazing, the knot stays where you put it. I like eyes too. Making up a split-tail with HRC costs $9, about the same for beeline; the splice takes about 20 minutes.
Like you guys are saying, everything has it's strengths and weaknesses. Mechanicals are cool but friction knot adjusters are so simple and elegant that I like them better.
Sometimes a split tail will glaze and the rope starts self tending and it pisses me off so I ditch the cord. When I draw slack in my loop I want it to stay drawn so I can descend or traverse or whatever. It's a drag to need slack and feel that knot go tight at just the wrong time.
That's one of the reasons I like HRC, no glazing, the knot stays where you put it. I like eyes too. Making up a split-tail with HRC costs $9, about the same for beeline; the splice takes about 20 minutes.
Like you guys are saying, everything has it's strengths and weaknesses. Mechanicals are cool but friction knot adjusters are so simple and elegant that I like them better.
I'd have to agree that the self tending can be a negative when you're working but at the same time it's a plus if you're walking in and don't have to worry about tending. I like the self tending when I'm using the LJ and a lifeline as a second tie in when blocking down. It snubs right up no matter where I put it so even if I screw up it's going to be a short trip.
Phil
Phil
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
id love to try one out, i was looking into a bunch of mechanical split tails a while back but the price put me back in place
i almost bought the spyderjack, luckily the seller told me that i couldnt attach it midline otherwise i would have a 400 dollar paper weight
i almost bought the spyderjack, luckily the seller told me that i couldnt attach it midline otherwise i would have a 400 dollar paper weight
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
I've got all of the LJs from the original with black static line up to the Spyderjack. The LJ is a good tool but the Unicender is much more useful and durable for a bit more money. I don't want to hijack the thread, there is plenty of Unicender info in other threads.
- Location
- Longmont, CO
Tom. Do you have a newer version of the Uni?
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