Lock Jack

The lockjack sport is gorgeous....If you have to ask, you may never know!!
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It would be worth consulting the forestry commissions research report on climbing hitches and cord etc if you want a heads up on what the issues are : cord v lockjack....Go figure
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http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCRR-JD-0402.pdf/$FILE/FCRR-JD-0402.pdf
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I actually like the Spider Jack the best so far. And, I prefer to leave it on the rope all of the time anyway. Anyone do this with their hitch? I do. I doubt I'll ver go back to tying it every tree or even every day.

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Mark how do you inspect your friction chord at the end of the day, or begining if you don't untie it? this seems like laziness over safety?
 
I like the lockjack because of the consistent, predictable control on release. It makes "controlled swings" that much more effective because I can let out line at a predictable rate and not have to worry about coming up short of my landing zone.

The clutches are definintely expensive and if I can find a local machine shop to make one out of stainless for me I will.

But then again, eye and eye cords have a host of other things that attack them and they ain't cheap either.

With the LJ you really need to keep your rope as free of grit as possible. So I guess that makes friction savers mandatory as well.

What I really like about my set up is that it is a Hybrid of the original and the sport. It attaches like the original and is long enough so that I can hand-over-hand on the way up and then bring it in close like a sport while working in the tree.

As for Pine pitch... it doesn't make my LJ happy but it has never seized like a friction hitch does when pitched up.

The LJ can also get very hot. Hot enough to startle you if you touch it. But I have yet to see any glazing problems on the main rope.

The only real problem I have is when the tail of my rope goes above me and I have to work my way down. Then the self tending feature is a pain in the but. To over come it I have to hang a loop of slack below me and sometimes that is a nuisance. Even so, I am testing some ways to make this problem go away.
 
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i'm sure that you can plainly see & feel the prusik cord w/o haveing to untie it

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This comment gives me cause for concern...I gotta say that a friction hitch cord needs to be inspected beyond any question of a doubt about its " fitness for purpose" as the regs would have it. This must surely mean you gotta untie the hitch, inspect the wear on the inside. ie The unseen part of the system.
I have used these systems enough to appreciate their contribution to what we do , day in day out and so on. I will always turn my cord over to try and spread wear evenly over the length of the cord. Remember, cords tend to have memory and the tendency is there to continually tie the knots / hitches the same , over and over yeah!! In the same way I turn my bar over...
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The only real problem I have is when the tail of my rope goes above me and I have to work my way down. Then the self tending feature is a pain in the but. To over come it I have to hang a loop of slack below me and sometimes that is a nuisance. Even so, I am testing some ways to make this problem go away.

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OK, yeah, gotta say, the LJ can be quite unlike the hitch systems in the way it behaves,..you dont even really want to get too shallow on your achor point b4 you notice the f""""er is there. But hey...I can live with the occasional reminder that I am using a rope access system, just in case I forget
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Hey Rick, wonder where you would be with a home addition accessory like a stainless steel cam/clutch..I mean ART arnt gonna have a problem with non ce tested addons eh!!?




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I would like to add some comments and observations. If you have not tried running the LockJack climbing system through a pulley you will not have realized its full abilities.

I run mine most of the time through a pulley attached to an adjustable false crotch. When the situation requires using a friction saver instead the additional friction is quite noticeable.

I, too, have added a tether to my LJ Sport and feels this completes the process of making this a more versatile tool.

I have learned a neat little trick that extends the life of the clutch which normally gets replaced when it starts creeping or slipping while you are at a work position. This is just incredibly annoying but affects the LJ in no other aspect of its use. What I do is take a bite of the tail of my line, run it through the upper carabiner and slide the loop over the ball back to main body. What this accomplishes is putting constant tension upwards on the handle while you are in work position. Very fast and easy.

As far as inspecting knots. I would never recommend someone not to inspect their knots, (is that considered a double negative?) but in the case of advanced hitches, VTs and XTs and such used by advanced climbers using hightec cordage, I think there are some other considerations. The reports I have read on some of the current cordage is that they are weakened by repetitive bending motions. So reversing your hitch each time you use it, may weaken the cordage.

These hitches are being used by experienced climbers and the hitches themselves, being a very loose design, lend themselves well to an inspection without removal. Warning signs of excessive wear should be within these climbers knowledge base.

Just a question, I have heard it commented that it annoys people that the LJ self-tends in some situations when they don't want it to. When is that? In my day-to-day climbing I have never experienced that. Just curious.

D Mc
 
Before i started using the Unicender I was on the LJ regularly. The only times that I had the LJ self tend was when the downrope went straight to the ground and I was over 40' in the tree. The weight of the rope would overcome the camming action of the LJ. That happened very rarely. If it was going to be a problem I would take a long bite of rope and drape it over a limb so that there was only a little load on the cam. The self tending was desirable when coming in from a limbwalk though.
 
DSMc & and tom are both absoultly right like i had said eirler you do not have to your prusik to inspect it. though i use the LJ all the time now i see little reason (other than double crotching) to use prusiks much any more,unless i'm at work where the device is not approved for use.
 
My experience with the LJ found an inability to perform rapid descent swings. (say from one horizontal branch to the next 15' away & 15' down) Philosophy on rapid descents aside, is the LJ able to perform similarily for those of you with a lot of mileage on it?
 
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My experience with the LJ found an inability to perform rapid descent swings. (say from one horizontal branch to the next 15' away & 15' down) Philosophy on rapid descents aside, is the LJ able to perform similarily for those of you with a lot of mileage on it?

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Never a problem here...just have to make sure that you have your slack under you so that it travels free. if your slack gets above you (as in over a limb) you'll stop short every time.

The abilily to essentially flow the line freely through the LJ is what makes it so nice in my mind.

With a Pulley or FS it works best.
 
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i'm sure that you can plainly see & feel the prusik cord w/o haveing to untie it

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Whilst I can accept this may well be the case and anyway I dont believe that leaving your cord on the rope precludes the user from keeplng a responsible eye in its condition, I cant help wondering why you would somehow. I mean, what is it? You cant remember how to tie it twice?
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I gotta go with the " seems like laziness over safety" or at least an apparent complacency on this one!
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I disagree respectfully. I think it is faster and much safer to leave your prussic cord on. ever time you retie your friction knot of choice, you run the risk of making a mistake. I leave mine on always and periodically will retie it after a climb to inspect it and to try to get it to wear more evenly . It is always safer to tie your knot on the ground and test it before using it up in a tree. By tying it on the ground you take out all the potential for failure, or making a mistake while tying and climbing on it.
 
good point derek. I always untie my knots after a climb because I always descend all the way to the ground on my hitch, where some prefer to use a figure 8 or other methods of descent to come out of the tree

For me it just
makes sense to untie my knots so that I can safely pull my line from the
tree without worrying if my Biner and prussik will make it through a tight crotch. I know that I could just unclip my terminated end and pull the
cord out but I don't want to burn up my prussik pulling all of that extra line down and through the prussik and into my bag

Do I think its unsafe to keep the prussik tied? A little but I do believe that ya'll are smart enough to check the cordage every once in a while and to rotate it to get all the life out of it

Or am I wrong
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With the LJ you really need to keep your rope as free of grit as possible. So I guess that makes friction savers mandatory as well

I think this must be key to unlocking the LJ . I wanna say here that I have always used a cambium saver with the device. In fact an ART Ropeguide. I guess you can be cynical about the the obvious cost angles the manu's may or may not be exploiting here. I have still not had to replace a clutch yet. I should say however that I have changed rope diameter from 11mm to 13mm and a clutch spec change was unavoidable.I bought the unit with 2 cams , each for different rope sizes yeah? ( Nice one ART.) This longevity then I attribute to the use of friction savers. I wash my rope gently on a pretty regular basis aswell. Long gone are the days of no cambium savers, filthy ropes and straight down the pub!!!


Here I think it needs to be said again that to experience the LJ in all its eventual if sometimes sudden beauty, patience is certainly a prerequisite. But so too a friction saver device.


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You can sheer a sheep many times but skin him only once!!
 

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