Ladders
- Thread starter pantheraba
- Start date
- Location
- Overland Park, Kansas
agreed!
I'm not sure how to handle a piece that large over the house....that's why we pieced it out.
How would you "break it down" from that cut?
There was no overhead anchor to rig from...
teach me something.
How would you "break it down" from that cut?
There was no overhead anchor to rig from...
teach me something.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Have you ever done any high line rigging?
In VERY simplified plan what you do is string a heavy rigging line horizontally between two sturdy trees and float a pulley on the line. You can add other guy out lines to pull the overhead line into alignment.
This can get very complicated very quickly. You also have to have a good understanding of the vector forces that you're building into the system.
In the attachment you'll see a head-on view of a simple setup. The lines can be tied off up above, run through branch unions or false crotches. It's beter to angle the tie-offs back instead of straight down to the butt of the same tree. Along the line you add a floating pulley. You can position the floater by using a prusik to snug off the floater. by lowering one end you can slide the floater into the perfect location.
On the right is an overhead of what it might look like to add two guy outs to pull the main overhead line into alignment.
You can scale down the yarding systems that are here:
http://tinyurl.com/7cce4
In VERY simplified plan what you do is string a heavy rigging line horizontally between two sturdy trees and float a pulley on the line. You can add other guy out lines to pull the overhead line into alignment.
This can get very complicated very quickly. You also have to have a good understanding of the vector forces that you're building into the system.
In the attachment you'll see a head-on view of a simple setup. The lines can be tied off up above, run through branch unions or false crotches. It's beter to angle the tie-offs back instead of straight down to the butt of the same tree. Along the line you add a floating pulley. You can position the floater by using a prusik to snug off the floater. by lowering one end you can slide the floater into the perfect location.
On the right is an overhead of what it might look like to add two guy outs to pull the main overhead line into alignment.
You can scale down the yarding systems that are here:
http://tinyurl.com/7cce4
Attachments
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
Yesterday, I trimmed a cypress ( i don't know what kind, about 40' tall and suuuuuper thin)) and we put a 26' ladder leaned right up on the tree, and I climbed up and used my lightweight fiskars pole pruner. I really hate ladders and do all in my power to avoid them, but there was no way I was climbing that thing, and ....well, a bucket truck woulda worked, but that's another story.
Ummmm, the point of this post....I don't like ladders.
love
nick
Ummmm, the point of this post....I don't like ladders.
love
nick
[ QUOTE ]
Have you ever done any high line rigging?
In VERY simplified plan what you do is string a heavy rigging line horizontally between two sturdy trees and float a pulley on the line. You can add other guy out lines to pull the overhead line into alignment.
This can get very complicated very quickly. You also have to have a good understanding of the vector forces that you're building into the system.
[/ QUOTE ]
A high line is how I safetied off for the tree in the attached picture. The tree top was rigged off itself when not over the house...once over the house, we rigged off a big pine about 20-30 feet off to one side...pieces were cut and tagline/belayed over to the belay tree adn then lowered.
Re: the tree being discussed in this thread...we considered briefly a high line but the rigging would have taken a LONG time..and the trees we could have used were at least 150 feet apart..we didn't have the time or gear to rig that.
Have you ever done any high line rigging?
In VERY simplified plan what you do is string a heavy rigging line horizontally between two sturdy trees and float a pulley on the line. You can add other guy out lines to pull the overhead line into alignment.
This can get very complicated very quickly. You also have to have a good understanding of the vector forces that you're building into the system.
[/ QUOTE ]
A high line is how I safetied off for the tree in the attached picture. The tree top was rigged off itself when not over the house...once over the house, we rigged off a big pine about 20-30 feet off to one side...pieces were cut and tagline/belayed over to the belay tree adn then lowered.
Re: the tree being discussed in this thread...we considered briefly a high line but the rigging would have taken a LONG time..and the trees we could have used were at least 150 feet apart..we didn't have the time or gear to rig that.
Attachments
Different tree, different ladder...still Katrina, same job.
We had just finished taking the top out where it extended over the house on the left...trying to miss the fence (we did). There was a "Bubba pool" under the tree...4 ft wide, 8 ft long, one ft deep...perfect size to practice Bubba belly busters in...or to keep a gator.
We had just finished taking the top out where it extended over the house on the left...trying to miss the fence (we did). There was a "Bubba pool" under the tree...4 ft wide, 8 ft long, one ft deep...perfect size to practice Bubba belly busters in...or to keep a gator.
Attachments
Norm_Hall
New member
- Location
- Wauconda, (Chicago),IL,USA
Was the tree tied off side to side to prevent slippage? We don't trust trees laying on obstacles and tie off every which way to prevent movement.
[ QUOTE ]
Was the tree tied off side to side to prevent slippage? We don't trust trees laying on obstacles and tie off every which way to prevent movement.
[/ QUOTE ]
Not tied off but secured...it had sliced thru the shop/shed. We had to use tongs to skid two foot chunks up ramps and thru the gap in the wall.
I safetied off to the exposed timbers of the shed when working on the tin.
Was the tree tied off side to side to prevent slippage? We don't trust trees laying on obstacles and tie off every which way to prevent movement.
[/ QUOTE ]
Not tied off but secured...it had sliced thru the shop/shed. We had to use tongs to skid two foot chunks up ramps and thru the gap in the wall.
I safetied off to the exposed timbers of the shed when working on the tin.
Attachments
skew
New member
- Location
- scenic Skew Gardens
There actually was a tradgedy after Hugo in Charlotte when a child was playing in The hole left next to an uprooted ball. As the home owner was sectioning off the trunk it suddenly righted itself and crushed the kid. Watch out for the unexpected! And keep by standers at a safe distance!
- Location
- Minneapolis
- Location
- Minneapolis
- Location
- Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
K.I.S.S.
Skip all the drama, eh!
[/ QUOTE ]
MB, re: the picture you sent back...you said you would cut it way back at the fork and "break it on down". What does that mean? If you cut it, how would you lower/catch it? There were not any rigging points available.
Just trying to understand... /forum/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/download.php?Number=33892
K.I.S.S.
Skip all the drama, eh!
[/ QUOTE ]
MB, re: the picture you sent back...you said you would cut it way back at the fork and "break it on down". What does that mean? If you cut it, how would you lower/catch it? There were not any rigging points available.
Just trying to understand... /forum/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/download.php?Number=33892
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