Home made gear.

I've got my mom's old Singer and that ol' girl can sing. Have not spent much time at the helm as I have been spending time slicing (my wife calls it knitting) Good job. not sure knitting your own harness would be a good idea. Totally possible, but what is your hourly rate for building stuff?
 
Nice work, Evo!
I married a seamstress / dressmaker. We have accumulated around 40 sewing machines and sergers, mostly secondhand bargains from Thriftstores.
Buying a sewing machine on eBay is like buying a chainsaw there. Prices tend to go high, sometimes stupidly high. Some eBay dealers also describe a machine as "industrial" to get a higher price.

New sewing machines lean towards being unfixable plastic junk, (even from venerable brand name manufacturers like Singer). I love machines made back in the '40s to '60's era. They were made to last generations.
American Efird is a good company to deal with for thread; no minimum order, fast shipping, decent prices.
Polyester thread is preferable to nylon.
 

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Photo of a nice Bernina purchased new by a previous owner in 1959.
Runs like a Swiss watch!
I paid $50 for this machine at a Habitat for Humanity Restore, which was more than the usual $20 - $25, but it came with a whole bunch of cams and attachments, the manual, spools of thread, table, etc.
 

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Sweet! I would love to have that Juki. Years ago I managed to scored an industrial singer on the side of the road (don't know the model) and I gave it a good cleaning. It ran ok, but it was either on or off. I had to leave it behind in a move, and I'm kicking myself for that. What do you think about this machine? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/art/4326747846.html

Our thrift store always has 5 or 6 machines, most of them nice old home models but they always want too much for them. I don't mind paying for a good machine, but some of the prices I'm seeing on ebay think that they are gold. What I really want one of the old Singer cobbler treadles!
 
Would definitely want to test drive the CL machine before making an offer. A machine of that bulk and limited function (no zigzag or "fancy" stitches, no reverse) has a very limited market. Might be able to get it a lot cheaper if the seller really just wants it gone!
I bought my wife this 241-13 a few years ago....the clutter surrounding it testifies that it is not one of her go to favorites, lol.
My Juki 653 has the large capacity bobbin and a servo motor. (Just sayin' to make you drool!)
 

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Wife's first machine we bought (1988) was a Singer purchased from a dealer in a shopping mall. Around $700. Didn't know any better, and it was "on sale!" Woo hoo - aren't we lucky. She got about a year and a half out of it before it started to go wonky. Took it downtown Toronto to the textile/sewing mecca (Queen and Spadina area) to see if it could be repaired, and the repair guys just laughed at us. A good (costly) learning experience....and I eventually got to become the dressmaker's sewing machine fixit guy.
Next machine was a Husqvarna...also purchased new from a local dealer, also a headache. Traded that one in on a better $$$ one, which lasted her almost 15 years and many miles (literally) of sewing.
 
How cool is this?!

Guys talking about the fine points of heavy duty sewing!

My Mom taught me to sew when I was 14. She wouldn't patch my blue jeans so I had/got to learn:)
 
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How cool is this?!

Guys talking about the fine points of heavy duty sewing!

My Mom taught me to sew when I was 14. She wouldn't patch my blue jeans so I had/got to learn:)

[/ QUOTE ]


Unbelievable - Similar experience!
nb: using wife's serger (Juki 2504 - $200 ReStore treasure) on a new canvas tarp got her riled up......something about the oily residue that transfers onto material she goes to serge. Only got away with doing that once. The next time could be fatal.
 
Pfaff model 360 is a lovely heavy duty machine, (has a free arm as well which is handy). Older Singers, Whites, Kenmores, Berninas, Necchis, etc are all good, but you want to look for a pre-1970's metal bodied machine (not plastic......grrrrr), metal bobbin, no electronics. You can commonly source these under $30 at thrift stores. These machines will have been manufactured in North America, Europe, or Japan. New ones are made you know where...
On any of the smaller portable machines, you are probably gonna be limited to a size 18 needle, which will handle up to a size 69 thread. You want something that will do a decent straight stitch, and maybe a zigzag. That is it. You aren't sewing a dress, and don't need a damn automatic buttonholer, or a bunch of decorative stitch patterns you will never use.

If you have the space, consider getting a true industrial machine that comes with a powerful clutch or servo motor, handles bigger needle (harpoons!) sizes (=stronger thread), good size table, more clearance under the presser foot (can sew thicker material) etc. The best part is that they frequently sell cheap. I paid $1000 for my walking foot Juki, but have seen them listed on Kijiji for around $500. Industrial singers are common- often see them listed in the $100-$200 range.

Any Buzzer that craves an industrial machine....I have two Singers that I will get rid of for well under $100 each! (Working machines with large motors, tables, complete). You gotta come pick them up though! The hobby got a bit out of control a few years ago...
 
Walking foot zigzag machines are a rare breed. Sailmakers really like them. Consew is a well known brand. Haven't heard any bad stuff about them, although I suspect almost everyone has now switched manufacturing over to China, (one exception might be Adler - excellent; expensive) to the detriment of the quality & reputation of many famous names.
If you could do some bartering, I'm sure that you would absolutely love that machine. I would.
smile.gif
A machine like that will hold it's value or appreciate.
Noticed it has a clutch motor - = capable of sewing a gazillion stitches per minute. Factory production. You quickly learn to apply gentle pressure to that foot pedal as if there is an egg between your foot and it!
 
[ QUOTE ]
How cool is this?!

Guys talking about the fine points of heavy duty sewing!

My Mom taught me to sew when I was 14. She wouldn't patch my blue jeans so I had/got to learn:)

[/ QUOTE ]

My dear mothers fix for blue jean patch was the iron on patch. So, due to genetics, I still use them.

I do a fair amount of hand stitching, followed by a dab or two of Aquaseal for protection. (read farmer built sewing)
 
Well I just lucked out. With all this sewing talk I went to the thrift store, and got me a singer 403a. Playing around with it and it's great for the $25 I spent on it. I don't do a lot of sewing but I wouldn't spend much more on a non industrial machine for making tree gear. From the reading I've done #69 thread is pretty much the minimum size of tread for sewing webbing.

To advise some one getting into this for (all metal, older, everything disused) and start sewing. You will quickly get your head spinning with projects, and develop a want for one of those super nice industrial walking foot machines. At least that's how it is for me. With my treadle my major limitation is the height of the foot for looser woven fabric. I can do two layers of leather about the thickness of wesco's uppers. It will also so a single layer of belt leather, but other than decoration there isn't any point.

Zig zag is nice, but not necessary. There isn't any need for much more unless your sewing ruffles in your undies.
 
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There isn't any need for much more unless your sewing ruffles in your undies.

[/ QUOTE ]

Funny you mention this.

I was reading a very rarely examined section of the ANSI Z133 when I found this line.



Underwear "SHALL" have ruffles. Ruffles must not exceed 1" in length to prevent getting caught in moving parts of equipment...
 
They changed that from a should two years ago. Tom Dunlap really championed that for arborists everywhere. I heard through the grapevine they were going to add in a lace and banana hammock exception.
 
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They changed that from a should two years ago. Tom Dunlap really championed that for arborists everywhere. I heard through the grapevine they were going to add in a lace and banana hammock exception.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's nice to be acknowledged for the behind the scenes, or under the jeans, issues that I've championed!

Hahahahha
 
I hope I'm not boring y'all, here is some more.

22" x 1" Tubular sling made to get break tested. I used #69 nylon thread with break strength around 10lbs. There is 10 passes done at 7 stitches per inch, with 4" sewn material. So according to "On Rope" that should be 15 lbs per stitch, with 280 stitches = about 4,200 lbs. The MBS of the webbing is 4,000lbs... I should be good right? Is this what other people here get from "On Rope"?







4 throw bags, filled with steel shot. The blue are fairly thick Lycra, and the yellow/black is cordura (nylon). I like the lycra bags. They have enough give that they squish on impact, and may squeeze their way through crotches. I'm nervous about the durability of the fabric, and just may be trading problems. I'm also not too hot on the color but that's the only stuff at the island craft store. I've never had the fabric fail on a bag (used the vinyl ones), but the stitching goes on impact.



The stiff tether has two top eyes to attach to a the chest harness. It's made with 9/16" webbing tripled layered and sewn, stiffened with shrink wrap.



And the chest harness speaks for it's self. Made with 2" tubular webbing. I probably should have made it adjustable, but I don't think my chest will get bigger.
 

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