Hitch Hiker question

I have only tied it the recommended way, 6 wraps to make a 5 wrap prussic with the crossover to the dogbone. Tied that way,adjusting the leg length affects the hitch performance.
 
I have the new HH2 and am using safari 11mm....

Eleven mm ropes work well for some people but if you are new to SRWP they can be a bit fussy in getting the perfect feel. It is much easier to start with any of the fatter ropes, as they will give you more adjustment room because they have a much larger surface area to work with.
 
Eleven mm ropes work well for some people but if you are new to SRWP they can be a bit fussy in getting the perfect feel. It is much easier to start with any of the fatter ropes, as they will give you more adjustment room because they have a much larger surface area to work with.
Well this is something I never thought of the reverse actually of what I was thinking. Any recommendations as to a fatter rope that works well with this device. I am positive you know it better than anyone. I was having trouble finding a static rope that was fatter
 
What works for me is Vortex 12.7mm with an Arb Pro 9mm hitch cord. Vortex is a standard 24 strand double braid so is not a static rope, but it feels like one due to it's high strength. It can elongate when loaded heavily which makes it a good choice for tree work.

Smooth climbing is safer than bouncy climbing. Using a static rope will not make you a smooth climber, it will just feel smooth. If you are still bouncing you will be putting excessive force on your suspension points.
 
One of the best ways to develop a smooth climbing technique is to practice climbing on a bouncy rope until you feel no bounce. It is a timing thing, like walking out to the end of a spring board at a pool. Your walk can be smooth or with enough bounce to catapult you into the air.
 
Thank you so much for the information I was originally told 1/2" line would not work. worse part about this is I almost went with vortex guess it is just proof you should go with your gut. I think I already have the arbor pro line as it was in the hitch cord sampler. Now I am torn between buy a new rope to give it a try on that or upgrade to a rope runner or go the wrench rope route. I think I can see where this is going I am going to pay for Mr Bonner's children's education.
 
Thank you so much for the information I was originally told 1/2" line would not work. worse part about this is I almost went with vortex guess it is just proof you should go with your gut. I think I already have the arbor pro line as it was in the hitch cord sampler. Now I am torn between buy a new rope to give it a try on that or upgrade to a rope runner or go the wrench rope route. I think I can see where this is going I am going to pay for Mr Bonner's children's education.

All my explorations into new gear and technique produce a collateral pile of useless stuff before I get to what works me, goes with the territory.
-AJ
 
What works for me is Vortex 12.7mm with an Arb Pro 9mm hitch cord. Vortex is a standard 24 strand double braid so is not a static rope, but it feels like one due to it's high strength. It can elongate when loaded heavily which makes it a good choice for tree work.

Smooth climbing is safer than bouncy climbing. Using a static rope will not make you a smooth climber, it will just feel smooth. If you are still bouncing you will be putting excessive force on your suspension points.

Has anyone tried the Yale imori it seems to be a neat rope option just curious about the performance and would this fit the standards specified above
 
Has anyone tried the Yale imori it seems to be a neat rope option just curious about the performance and would this fit the standards specified above

While I've never used Imori, I've read that it is on the more dynamic side. I have also read that the 'random' weave makes it inconsistant with hitch feel.
 
Ok here is my current attempt thanks for your info guys. Standard wrap work on the top as in exactly what the directions say. But using blue bee line. Secondly I must make a side note for those that have trouble feeding the top through the dog bone. Automotive hear shrink works great but don't stop it at the end push it over the end a bit like a 1/2" this will almost give a taper look to end making it easy to get through the dog bone.
 

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