HH2 for twin rope

Great information, thank you!
Those are some interesting and well thought out anchors in the link. I especially appreciate the break tests, it inspires confidence to have some actual numbers.

In the last picture with the modified rope runner, is that lower pulley/bollard a custom piece, or were you able to find something that worked (I.e. a bearing or bushing)?
Also, did you find it a necessary modification? If I remember correctly johnny pro said his runner was unmodified, but don't quote me on that.

I think I will order two 150' hanks of the sirius and hopefully my hands will help wrap my mind around all of this.
 
The picture shows Ocean's modified-by-welding sheave and I've heard that bearings can work too. It changes the climb from fiddlesome to flowing as it stops the ropes twisting on descent, I definitely recommend a flat sheave.
While natural anchoring is wonderful and simple I also recommend using the fimbl CLIMB (not SAVER) anchor for friction free retrieving and of course spar work. It is super compact and essentially a TRT design with cover. I've become obsessed with this and recently made a lanyard version, it kinda flips like steel but still has a rope hand.
If you feel like a splicing challenge you can put a 6mm DMM thimble into where I described the anchor ring, not an easy splice but worth it.
 
The friction saver looks like it can give some good options. I think I am just going to splice some tight eyes on the sirius. I am pretty simple with my srt anchors and redirects so I will probably stick to the basics for now.
On an isolated canopy that one would run a choked system in srt, do you feel it is necessary to have two legs of the line run over the branch? I understand the redundancy I just wonder about the necessity.
Like I mentioned, I am very simple with my srt anchors, I do basicallyeverything with a rope, a delta, and a steel biner. Redirects are usually just a sling and carabiner. I would like to explore trt with the same minimalist approach, at least at first, but I don't want to discount any research and discoveries you have made.
I'll have to get some measurements off the roperunner pulley and see if I can't find something that works, otherwise I will probably make something.
Thanks again for all the help. I am anxious to try this out.
 
With a single leg the strength is there but in a way it also isn't. One leg of 8mm is thin and there will be enough movement at the anchor to give considerable wear and tear to both tree and rope. Perhaps splice a short section of 10/11/12 mm rope and connect the two Sirius legs to this with your Delta's, low budget no-frills saver that'll get the job done. If you add in a thimble prusik you essentially have the fimbl CLIMB, it's not a big leap.
I think you are right to play it your own way and see how it goes, hope you have fun with it!
Plan your climbs more like DdRT in the way that you look for lines inside the branch network rather than taking a million re-directs SRT style. Re-directs are so 2016 !!
 
My favorite TRT anchor is my vintage DMM Sticht Plate with a Delta Link. It's clean, adjustable, and strong as can be. I'll get a photo at work tomorrow.:cool:
 
Pictures always appreciated!

Oceans:
Any info on the welded pulley on the runner? I am thinking if I can't find a bushing I may be able to make one on the drill press easily enough.
 
Z'sTrees said:
Pictures always appreciated!

Oceans:
Any info on the welded pulley on the runner? I am thinking if I can't find a bushing I may be able to make one on the drill press easily enough.
Click to expand...
I found some 1 1/4 aluminum round stock and drilled it out and pressed in the bronze bushing. The problem I had was not getting a perfect center hole. I ended up having a machinist make the one I am using now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

There is more information & pictures on the TRT thread. http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/trt.33634/page-5.
Another one of those time it would be nice to combined or merge threads together.
 
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Yea I guess I should've brought that thread back up instead.

What aluminum did you use?
I am thinking of 7075 as it is a bit harder but 6061 is probably going to be easier to come by.
 
Z'sTrees said:
Yea I guess I should've brought that thread back up instead.

What aluminum did you use?
I am thinking of 7075 as it is a bit harder but 6061 is probably going to be easier to come by.
Click to expand...

You mean I should have dug this one up instead of starting a new one :aburrido:

And I also wanted to add that I am really displeased with my runner ever since I switched my everyday rope to a yale 11.7. Is anyone running one with the bird replaced with a hitch on TRT? I would hate to have to pull out wrenches to reassemble it just because I changed the rope it is on.
I will be messing with it soon. If I don't like it, I might have to break down and get a hitch hiker for playing with this.
 
Are you saying yoy have been unhappy with the runner and the yale 11.7?
I have been nothing but pleased with that combo.

Just got the sirius 500 in yesterday. Hopefully I'll find some time to climb on it and get some eyes spliced this weekend.
 
Z'sTrees said:
Are you saying yoy have been unhappy with the runner and the yale 11.7?
I have been nothing but pleased with that combo.

Just got the sirius 500 in yesterday. Hopefully I'll find some time to climb on it and get some eyes spliced this weekend.
Click to expand...
I seem to be the only one, but yes.
It worked much better for me on tachyon... I also refuse to run it anywhere but wide open. Adjustment is just such a pain, and with the wear occuring as quickly as it does, I fear dialing it in will only work for a month or so, and one day I will find it slipping again. Probably as soon as I begin a big limb walk.
A baby bump would help, I think. I am hesitant to dump money into it.
 
why do you refuse to run it anything but wide open? a mm of adjustment goes a long way, especially if the 11.7 is new. Are you on a new line? a mm goes a long way. I have not had any luck with the baby bump. Is your problem that your sliding?
 
treebing said:
why do you refuse to run it anything but wide open? a mm of adjustment goes a long way, especially if the 11.7 is new. Are you on a new line? a mm goes a long way. I have not had any luck with the baby bump. Is your problem that your sliding?
Click to expand...

I don't like the way that I have to throw my hand around the entire thing and death grip it as I turn the wrench.
I am on a newish line (but I've used it every day for a month so it isn't shiny new anymore), and my problem is that it is sliding. Just a bump of slack when it is weighted allows a fairly slow hands-free descent. And the release pressure seems much more inconsistent than it used to. Sometimes breaking the bird free so that I can apply even pressure down to descend is super easy, and sometimes it carves into my hand.
The whole thing is much less hitch-like than I think it used to be, and all I did was switch from Tachyon. I also gave the wrench a fair try, and I like it a lot more than I did before 3 seasons or so on the runner.
 
You might want to check and see if your pulley is seized up. This is largest factor in poor performance I have found. but I would adjust your bollard by a mm or so so it will stop sliding first. It is not that difficult.
 
To update this discussion:

Got a few climbs in with the roperunner on twin sirius 500 8mm. I flipped my bollards and adjusted the top on about 2mm from being all the way 'closed'.
It goes up the ropes great, the bird breaks easily, and it has nice controlability on descent.
The lines do hockle on longer descents which is a bit annoying, I think the pulley is causing this so hopefully I will get some time to make a grooveless pulley soon.
They also tend to tangle on anything on the ground, I bought 2x 150' so even at a 75' TIP there's a ton of rope laying on the ground tangling on everything. Using one rope in a big loop works well when you dont need the extra length.
Two foot ascenders work but it definitely wants to saw the ropes back and forth to the point of destroying a pair of gloves pretty quickly. Ropewalking with both lines through the ascenders works pretty well but doesn't tend as easily when you're close to the ground.
Being able to retrieve your TIP at any time is nice, but I think.my favorite advantage so far is the moveable, floating anchor point. This is going to be great for storm damage, dead and sketchy trees, and really big, widespread canopies.
All that said I am likely gonna stick to regular srt for the majority of work climbs. I just don't see any huge disadvantage at this point.

Thanks to softbankhawks for the help in splicing and in general trt advice.

It's a neat tool to have in the bag and I will definitely be playing around with it more.
 
A flat sheave will make the climb so very different, highly recommended to the point that TRT is rubbish without it.
I like the feeling of foot-locking on TRT, the lock is solid with no shifting lines. That or a Rope Rocket, perhaps Oceans can talk on the 2 foot ascenders as I didn't like the technique, too much pressure on my hands trying to grip the ropes together.
If you wanna do the floating anchor thing then you definitely want long rope. Management advice is .... don't throw your tails around..and if something gets stuck pull one line only, the small diameter means friction is low on branch-wrapped-up-rope, in two years I have got the tail stuck just once or twice. I definitely match rope length to tree height. There are certain techniques particular to two tails and while at times it may be a pain to manage it is very unique.
TRT can be outstanding on particular jobs, the trick is choosing the right system at the right time ! Keep us updated on your explorations !
 
Frogging with two foot ascenders works instead of rope walking with the retrievable anchor. The floating anchor on an access line (both S500 working ends fixed to the anchor line) allows rope walking with two foot ascenders.

The issue on a retrievable anchor, regardless of chosen technique, is to absolutely ensure the retrieval side cannot get loaded alone. If it does, the ropes will begin to move at the anchor. Using a double handles ascender with two cams is the best bet to stabilize shifting.
 
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