Here's over an hour of raw unedited crane removal footage .

Knuckle booms get a little more tricky for tie in points, because of all the angles. If you work with knucklebooms this is what I use currently. The long reach shackle is often side loaded, but is rated at 8 tons.
26251cab796951f419664d11e63d82c4.jpg


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Knuckle booms get a little more tricky for tie in points, because of all the angles. If you work with knucklebooms this is what I use currently. The long reach shackle is often side loaded, but is rated at 8 tons.
26251cab796951f419664d11e63d82c4.jpg


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Ive never used a knuckle boom but this will help if there ever comes a time . Thanks .
 
OK I watched the first 25 minutes of your video, he are my thoughts so far.

I second the previous mentioned comment, find a hitch that you like and use that consistently. This will help your speed tying, and ground guys untying the knots. Also safer because you know it will hold every time.

If you do a fair amount of crane work I'd recommend getting a spliced end rope...so you don't have to tie and untie your carabiner. Zigzag is definitely the best device for crane work...i retired mine due go a small crack in the link (haven't bought another one yet).

That first pick was painful to watch the op getting it out. I've never worked a Live oak, but realize they are quite spready. Most times a tree is worked from the center out, so everything can be lifted straight up and the swung around. The disadvantage of this is that the climber looses that nice high tie in point...but with a crane that can take full limbs it isn't needed (and if left it just gets in the way). Hard to tell what was all going on that he couldn't lift it straight out.

In my opinion branch movement or lack there off, when it is cut off, isn't critical. What is critical is that it is predictivable and it isn't shocking the crane. Meaning you know the limb may swing some, and which way it will go if it does...and that it won't be extreme.

I'll watch the rest later, and say more if I see something else.

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Ps- I personally prefer to use my 201tc till the bar is completely buried. So for trees around me, I use it till get to the trunk wood.

With that being said, if the limb diameters were greater than my bar, and I couldn't properly do a shelf/v cut from one side of the limb, I'd switch to a larger saw.

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Knuckle booms get a little more tricky for tie in points, because of all the angles. If you work with knucklebooms this is what I use currently. The long reach shackle is often side loaded, but is rated at 8 tons.
26251cab796951f419664d11e63d82c4.jpg


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Why not just use the CM shackle as the TIP? That’s what mines for. Smooth as can be and not enough time on it to worry about bend radius.
 
Why not just use the CM shackle as the TIP? That’s what mines for. Smooth as can be and not enough time on it to worry about bend radius.
Originally I was putting the friction saver on the left hand shackle, but the friction saver was getting pinched between the shackle and the boom. Do I needed the long reach shackle to get beyond the boom. The only other option I have is to put another shackle on the hook shackle, but I didn't like that for 2 reasons. 1. It always nice to keep load and climbing things completely separate. 2. By connecting there with a shackle and friction saver I would have been below the hook, instead of above.

My boom does not have a shackle connection at every section, it also does not have a manual extension. If one is not using the manual (but has it installed) that is the best place to tie into...its shackle point. Imo

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I'm not a fan of the treestuff crane tie in point. This is what we use (the multiple shackles is just to extend the friction saver to the proper place). You could just use a longer friction saver.

The reason I prefer the shackle attachment is it can't be cut or damaged by the crane...easily. If the crane operator over lifts the ball, a rope connection (that is cinched around the cable) could get damaged by the crane's cable guide and/or the block that warns when it it over lifted. The shackle connection also keeps any rope/webbing away from cable grays, grease, etc.
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Hey, thanks for posting the picture. What I like about it is that you've got metal running all the way from the cable to just above where the ball contacts the friction saver rings. Hard to get that cut up, compared to a single shackle with longer friction saver. What I don't like is that the metal is a series of shackles, which increases the number of points where something could detach. Why not use a cable -> shackle -> *chain* -> friction saver -> climbing line instead?
 
Hey, thanks for posting the picture. What I like about it is that you've got metal running all the way from the cable to just above where the ball contacts the friction saver rings. Hard to get that cut up, compared to a single shackle with longer friction saver. What I don't like is that the metal is a series of shackles, which increases the number of points where something could detach. Why not use a cable -> shackle -> *chain* -> friction saver -> climbing line instead?
I hear you. When I first started using this crane operator, I was the one putting on my shackle and fs. Since then he does a lot more tree work, with multiple companies, so he leaves this setup on almost constantly (90% of his work is trees). All the shackles are safety shackles...have a nut and cotter pin. Obviously I check them every time I use him.

As to chain (or cable) between top shackle and fs, I like what you are thinking...about limiting the connection points. Always thinking and finding better ways to do things is what I love about this work. The problem that I see is this: shackles are easily visibly verified. Cables, were they connect/crimped isn't as easy to inspect. They same goes for chains, because you have to use a pinned connector between the shackle and the chain. Just my opinion.

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